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Discussion Starter #1
I have searched and cannot find any good info on my dilemma. I am also on my phone.

Long story short bike was taken apart and is now back together.

I am not getting any brake pressure. I have triple checked no leaks and line/calipers are on correct. I found out that the front master is not pushing fluid to the calipers. However the master is good. I know this because I took the line off poured fluid in master put my finger over the hole and pulled lever and it pushed the fluid out with force.

I tried and tried with the lines on and nothing. No fluid to the calipers.


Just seeing if anyone had ideas. I am assuming there is so much air it will not work unless I vacuum bleed them.
 

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Dont mess wit White Ninja
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I have searched and cannot find any good info on my dilemma. I am also on my phone.

Long story short bike was taken apart and is now back together.

I am not getting any brake pressure. I have triple checked no leaks and line/calipers are on correct. I found out that the front master is not pushing fluid to the calipers. However the master is good. I know this because I took the line off poured fluid in master put my finger over the hole and pulled lever and it pushed the fluid out with force.

I tried and tried with the lines on and nothing. No fluid to the calipers.


Just seeing if anyone had ideas. I am assuming there is so much air it will not work unless I vacuum bleed them.
:wink: Its funny someone posted a thread like this:lol: I had a person bring over a 09 6r today because his back brake stop working. No fluid, huge amount of air in the lines. Simple bleeder couldnt mustard it! Same problem checked everything! I would recommend buying a vacuum, there about 30 bucks if you can find them:eek:ccasion1
 

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Servo's Eliminatus ;)
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Another solution is to replace the m/c with a radial m/c.
You can bleed the radial m/c at the m/c itself.

But yeah, it sounds like you have a lot of air in the m/c.
A vacuum bleeder will fix you up or the radial m/c.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Went and got the bleeder today. Plan on working on the brakes when I get off work. I will post the results later.
 

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You don't need vacuum pumps or any other fancy shit. This is how it's done:

2 man job.

Run a piece of tube (vacuum line, fuel line, anything that fits reasonably well over a bleeder valve) from a bleeder to a bottle that contains brake fluid. Make sure the end of the tube is submerged.

Remove the reservoir lid.

Open the bleeder valve.

Pump the lever continously. Make sure the fluid level in the reservoir doesn't go below the minimum level and the tube in the bottle remains submerged. Have your assistant fill the reservoir as you pump.

Once you notice the air bubbles that were coming out of the tube in the bottle are almost gone, have your pal close the bleeder valve as you give the lever a squeeze.

Pump the lever a few times, have your pal open and close the bleeder while you squeeze.

Repeat that last step until your lever feels good and there's no air spurting out.

Repeat for the other side.

Have a beer.

Done.
 

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Servo's Eliminatus ;)
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they can be a real PITA with air bubbles - persevere. something that worked for me once was to remove the calipers are raise them above the M/C and bleed.
What ?? How can you bleed the Calipers with them off of the rotors?
The calipers need to be on for the pistons to have something to push against to have pressure.
Unless your using the vacuum blender.
 

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Я - Ребен&#108
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Tried and true method that has work for me over the years...Just did it last week also.

start with the calipers (the pump bleeder is a must) I normaly bleed enuff to fill the little container.

once you are done with the calipers, bleed the M/C nipple..same thing..untill you fill the little bottle.

THis is the money shot here...
Pull the brake lever in and zip tie it.

THis will keep presure on the lines and force all the air thats in the nuks and crannys.

They recomend leaving it zip tied for 4 hours, but I have never did it less than a full 24 hour day.

Tie it as tight as you can.

the next day while tied up, I get one start to bleed from the nipple again..maybe half a cup.

Afterwards I have instant Race level brakes...
Try it and if done correct Id gaurntee it works.
 

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What ?? How can you bleed the Calipers with them off of the rotors?
The calipers need to be on for the pistons to have something to push against to have pressure.
Unless your using the vacuum blender.
...or... just put something in the middle like an old brake pad:thumbsup:

the zx10r is the only bike i have ever had to do this to.
 

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Tried and true method that has work for me over the years...Just did it last week also.

start with the calipers (the pump bleeder is a must) I normaly bleed enuff to fill the little container.

once you are done with the calipers, bleed the M/C nipple..same thing..untill you fill the little bottle.

THis is the money shot here...
Pull the brake lever in and zip tie it.

THis will keep presure on the lines and force all the air thats in the nuks and crannys.

They recomend leaving it zip tied for 4 hours, but I have never did it less than a full 24 hour day.

Tie it as tight as you can.

the next day while tied up, I get one start to bleed from the nipple again..maybe half a cup.

Afterwards I have instant Race level brakes...
Try it and if done correct Id gaurntee it works.

^^^ what he said... I usually leave it on for 2 days. Works like a charm every time. Especially with our funky Tokico calipers.
 
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