Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just an FYI for you good folks. My 18 has 5K on it and I have changed pads to vesrah and my brakes feel great (non abs). Last night I decided to bleed them prepping bike for track day this weekend and the MC and caliper closest to MC (right side) was full of clean bubble free fluid. However, the caliper furthest from the MC was completely contaminated with air. I must have topped off my reservoir 20 times before I got all the bubbles out! I use a vacuum kit which works amazing and would have given up the old fashioned way haha.

My brakes felt good before the bleed but under high temps I am very happy to have caught that before any consequences may have arrived. My lever now moves about 1/2" before it's tight as opposed to an 1".

Anyone know why that caliper (left side) would have had all that air in the system? Right side and MC did not have a single bubble from the beginning.
 

·
Formerly CLCRACINGAaron
Joined
·
473 Posts
If your on stock lines, then it's a single line from the MC to a split joint, then two lines to the calipers (obviously). From the factory, they could have simply not bleed the LH caliper...

I try to bleed my calipers after every event. Air in the calipers and the lines has a funny way of getting trapped. Even when the bleeders are nice and clean of bubbles there could still be some left in the system.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Melampus

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I bleed them before every track event as well but never had this much air in a caliper before. Can't blame it on factory as this isn't my first time bleeding this bike. Maybe bleeder was a little loose and sucked air? Makes me wonder and don't want to be sucking air somewhere!

I'm still on stock lines and curious as to why that would matter? Being that they are SS lines what benefit would I have going aftermarket?
 

·
Formerly CLCRACINGAaron
Joined
·
473 Posts
Stock lines are perfectly fine, it's the way they are routed that can be problematic. My R6 had a 1-2 split and I had simiplar issues sometimes.

I like to pull the caliper off and tap them while turn them end over end to "help" the air move (if there's any in the caliper). Then I'll do the same with the line and try to get the air up to the master cylinder. It takes awhile but the lever is always good.

Also, don't be afraid to really get those bleeders good and tight. Like REALLY tight...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yea I didn't pull the caliper off and tap. I know the trick and have done it for years but was lazy last night. I also left the lever zip tied to clip on over night (currently still zip tied actually) and lever is fine. Just don't like the fact of how much air was in caliper considering last time I bleed them they were good. Thanks for the feedback Aaron and if you change your mind Barber will be waiting for you...

By the way, what do you have sitting around as far as exhausts go for our bike? Looking to replace mine as its scuffed (minor) from a lowside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Torque the banjo bolts and possibly replace the copper washers would be my recommendation. I also like to wrap the bleeder screws in Teflon tape. It seems to help me get a better bleed and accurate indication of how much air was in there. Once the line has fluid in it, I prefer the manual bleed as opposed to the vacuum bleed. I started using a MotionPro one way valve during the manual bleed and have had great success. Hope this helps. Air in the brakes can be very frustrating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Torque the banjo bolts and possibly replace the copper washers would be my recommendation. I also like to wrap the bleeder screws in Teflon tape. It seems to help me get a better bleed and accurate indication of how much air was in there. Once the line has fluid in it, I prefer the manual bleed as opposed to the vacuum bleed. I started using a MotionPro one way valve during the manual bleed and have had great success. Hope this helps. Air in the brakes can be very frustrating.
Good advice! I have ordered some speed bleeders which I have on my hog and they are the business! I did end up adding some dope to the threads of bleeders and have since removed all air. I will see what happens after this weekend at track. Thanks for the input!
 

·
Registered
2016 Kawasaki ZX-10R KRT ABS Edition
Joined
·
683 Posts
On my bike the banjo bolt on the master came loose on me before, twice. So loose I was sucking in air and squeezing out fluid the whole track day... wasn't till I hit 140 on the straight and went to grab the lever only to fade more than Wiz on 4-20. I would definitely check that bolt. If it's loose, honestly, replace the crush washers and torque the balls off of it. It's came loose on me more than once after torquing, might safety wire it if it does it again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All bolts are torqued currently as well as dope added to threads of bleeders. However, if problem continues, a new Brembo RCS 19 and new lines will not be out of the question! Will be a good test this weekend at Barber.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top