[F SANE IL]

So one of my forks was leaking a bit and decided to go with the seal job after cleaning didn't help.

I've read what I've been able to find, but still ran into surprises.
1. I can't figure out what Allen tool I need to seperate the tubes, what size it it?
2. Are these 50mm forks? Want to get the seal drivers.
3. One of the tubes seem to have tiny, vertical scratches, all perfectly straight. Should I Polish them and what causes this?
4. What's the cap size so I can get the tool?

Any other info from the experienced is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

[F SANE IL]

So one of my forks was leaking a bit and decided to go with the seal job after cleaning didn't help.

I've read what I've been able to find, but still ran into surprises.
1. I can't figure out what Allen tool I need to seperate the tubes, what size it it?
2. Are these 50mm forks? Want to get the seal drivers.
3. One of the tubes seem to have tiny, vertical scratches, all perfectly straight. Should I Polish them and what causes this?
4. What's the cap size so I can get the tool?

Any other info from the experienced is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

What I've found so far is this...

Amazon.com: K&L Supply 35-8379 Seal Head Tool - Bpf Type: Industrial & Scientific

Pretty sure one or both of the above will separate the tubes.

Found this for the Cap removal, if its 45MM... not sure

Thinking this is all I need mainly, but still unsure if i need to change out the bushings. I have the fork seals and dust covers all new.

 

[SkyDork]

The top cap wrench is 45mm.

The tubes pull apart once the cap is removed. There's no allen wrench needed to get the tubes apart.

You don't need the seal drivers. You can use the old seal to help press in the new seal without damaging it. But they are 43mm tubes.

The vertical scratches are usually caused by not keeping the tubes clean which allows dirt and grit to get into the seal and damages the forks as they move up and down. If not polished properly, you can make them worse if you're not careful.

The only tool you listed that you should need is the cap remover.

 

[SpazOnaZX]

The tubes pull apart once the cap is removed. There's no allen wrench needed to get the tubes apart.


The only tool you listed that you should need is the cap remover.

...just did a set of these with Cooter... there is in fact a large external hex socket you need to get the tubes apart. This is what the factory tool looks like:

I milled up one out of aluminum, but you have to be very careful getting it out.... the depth of the "nut" is only about 5mm. It's actually a 12 point hex, but using a 6 point works.

Here is a brief video showing some of the highlights (starting at a screenshot of the hex in question):

https://youtu.be/QlspX4dQ5Dg?t=2m6s

...and unless you're a savant with a drift punch, you'll need a way to get the inner fork race bashed back into the tube... a seal driver makes this an easy/less risky ordeal.

G'luck!

 

[SpazOnaZX]

Thinking this is all I need mainly, but still unsure if i need to change out the bushings. I have the fork seals and dust covers all new.

You should be good with just the seals. You won't know if you need bushings until you get it apart. If they still have their coating and aren't scratched up or wearing through you can re-install them. Watch that video as it gives you a good idea on what's going on in the operation. If you look around Youtube hard enough you can find the full version for free.

 

[F SANE IL]

...just did a set of these with Cooter... there is in fact a large external hex socket you need to get the tubes apart. This is what the factory tool looks like:

I milled up one out of aluminum, but you have to be very careful getting it out.... the depth of the "nut" is only about 5mm. It's actually a 12 point hex, but using a 6 point works.

Here is a brief video showing some of the highlights (starting at a screenshot of the hex in question):

https://youtu.be/QlspX4dQ5Dg?t=2m6s

...and unless you're a savant with a drift punch, you'll need a way to get the inner fork race bashed back into the tube... a seal driver makes this an easy/less risky ordeal.

G'luck!

I was dreading its this tool, but its $139. was hoping there is one cheaper or maybe we should have a ZX-10R tool rent section. We could just pay a fraction and next time a member posts the need for a tool, they pay shipping and fraction of cost and gets the tool from the last guy who used/had it.

 

[SkyDork]

Hmmm...Looked in the manual and the "fork disassembly" doesn't show that being needed unless you're pulling the cartridge out. Not arguing the point, just stating what I saw in there. There is obviously more to it than I thought. :ayyy:

A tool rental/sharing section is a great idea! Not sure how it would work in practice though. Might be worth looking into.

 

[F SANE IL]

Hmmm...Looked in the manual and the "fork disassembly" doesn't show that being needed unless you're pulling the cartridge out. Not arguing the point, just stating what I saw in there. There is obviously more to it than I thought. :ayyy:

A tool rental/sharing section is a great idea! Not sure how it would work in practice though. Might be worth looking into.

I think something like that would need a pool funded by all of us. If cost is shared among many, it will be cheap. Maybe a FundME type of thing, then someone experienced buys the tools that are most common, ie, this tool i'm looking for or a good chain breaker/riviter and so on....

Each time someone wants the tool, they just pay for shipping and paypal shipping cost to the member who currently holds the tool.

Of course we would have to limit this to those who contributed to the fund, as well as allowing only members with certain post count to be able to borrow. This will help ensure the tool doesn't just go one way.

lastly, there would need to be some sort of list to keep track of who has what borrowed so anyone can message that person to request the tool.

 

[SkyDork]

I think something like that would need a pool funded by all of us. If cost is shared among many, it will be cheap. Maybe a FundME type of thing, then someone experienced buys the tools that are most common, ie, this tool i'm looking for or a good chain breaker/riviter and so on....

Each time someone wants the tool, they just pay for shipping and paypal shipping cost to the member who currently holds the tool.

Of course we would have to limit this to those who contributed to the fund, as well as allowing only members with certain post count to be able to borrow. This will help ensure the tool doesn't just go one way.

lastly, there would need to be some sort of list to keep track of who has what borrowed so anyone can message that person to request the tool.

Yeah, that would be a start. The other logistical issues would be if more than one person needed it at a time, limiting the "use" time, and trying to keep them from disappearing. The loaner tools you get at the parts store usually charge a deposit for the full cost of the tool, refunded when you bring it back within 30 days. It would be tough to administer here in that way, or try to keep someone from getting a tool and dragging their feet on the project for weeks and forgetting about it or never coming back to the site again. And getting a full suite of the specialty tools would be pretty expensive so unless there was a large enough pool of people, the initial cost could be high.

Would be a neat perk though if the logistics could be worked out. :thumbsup:

 

[or10r]

Yeah, that would be a start. The other logistical issues would be if more than one person needed it at a time, limiting the "use" time, and trying to keep them from disappearing. The loaner tools you get at the parts store usually charge a deposit for the full cost of the tool, refunded when you bring it back within 30 days. It would be tough to administer here in that way, or try to keep someone from getting a tool and dragging their feet on the project for weeks and forgetting about it or never coming back to the site again. And getting a full suite of the specialty tools would be pretty expensive so unless there was a large enough pool of people, the initial cost could be high.

Would be a neat perk though if the logistics could be worked out. :thumbsup:

Agreed. Its a cool idea.

 

[mpp12]

I live outside USA, I would like to know what tools do I really need to do the job...

Thanks

 

[F SANE IL]

So, spent all day trying to figure out the best way out. Called RaceTech and MotionPro both. the above black looking tool is MotionPro and runs at $139. Racetech has the 6point contact allen type key that goes for $49. Ordered that one and calling it a day.

Thanks everyone for your input.

 

[SpazOnaZX]

Hmmm...Looked in the manual and the "fork disassembly" doesn't show that being needed unless you're pulling the cartridge out. Not arguing the point, just stating what I saw in there. There is obviously more to it than I thought. :ayyy:

A tool rental/sharing section is a great idea! Not sure how it would work in practice though. Might be worth looking into.

Yea, it almost got me too.... the traditional USD forks (gen 1, 2 3) you can just sneak the damper assembly out and do the seals... no special tools needed. The BPF fork, on the other hand, must be separated and slide-hammered apart like old traditional forks... there's not even a banjo bolt on the bottom of the leg to secure the assembly. Once you have that tool it's actually really easy, and it's MUCH easier to do shim changes on the BPF set-up too as the valve is completely exposed... neat little forks they are.

 

[mpp12]

Could you give me the amazon Racetech one that you purchased???

 

[F SANE IL]

Could you give me the amazon Racetech one that you purchased???

Amazon.com: Race Tech Showa BPF Fork Cartridge Holding Tool TFCH 06: Automotive

 

[evallarta1]

Hopefully you bought OEM or SKF seals and dust covers, everything else is junk.

 

[mpp12]

I thought that the all balls seals where good

 

[F SANE IL]

i think i got all balls. everyone said they are good.

 

[evallarta1]

i think i got all balls. everyone said they are good.

Not people in the industry. Ill put it this way, I run a suspension shop in St. Louis and have access to All-Balls. Not only do I not carry them, but I refuse to install them if a customer brings them in with their forks. I don't know a single reputable suspension shop that uses All-Balls seals.

With that being said their bearings are really good. Makes you wonder why their bearings are good and their seals are junk.

 

[F SANE IL]

Guess i'm going to order a new set then. thanks.

Do you have a link to SKF?