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I installed nitrous on my bike last night! Put on a dynotune dual bottle dry shot kit, plus a purge kit. The bike looks wicked mean now, especially with a big ol' purge plum shootin' out the front.

The kit was pretty simple, basically a couple of paintball bottles and two drop forwards for mounts, and some wiring, lines(plastic and braided), and two solenoids. I didn't use the wiring in the kit. Instead I wired in relays to get the desired idiot lights and button switching without running high power wires all over the bike.

The kit came with a 15, 30, and 40 HP pills. I put the 15 in to start with and plan on getting the A/F ratio verified on a dyno. Dynotune states the airtemp sensor will take care of the enrichment but I just want to be safe, Plus I want some numbers and charts to drool over! It would be sick to see a 200+ number at the rear wheel.


I mounted the bottle on either side of the tail just above the exhaust heat shields. VERY obvious location, just what i wanted! I made some small brackets to hook the mounts to the same bolt as the exhaust cans. They are very sturdy and just far enough back the a passenger won't be bothered by them.



The mounts that came with the bottle almost perfectly match the color of the bike. Looks real good. A simple twist opens the bottles up and it's GO time.



The braided line goes into the body work right above the rear foot peg mount. Didn't even have to cut any plastic! From there it runs behind the side panels to under the tank. Which is where the solenoids are hidden in front of the battery. Tight fit but I didn't lose my trunk space that way.



I made a bracket out of stainless steel to hold the arming switch and my gear indicator, which was previously just Velcroed to the side of the gauges. I put two LED's in the gauge pod. The green one comes on when the system is armed, and the red when I'm spraying. Flipping the arm switch converts the horn button into a spray button and the lap timer start/stop into the purge.



For the purge I drilled down through the center of a couple of Stainless steel allen head bolts. I placed these in the nose where the bottom most windscreen bolt were and ran the purge lines to the back of them. Unless you were really looking you wouldn't have a clue the were there! Until a huge cloud of NOS came shooting out of them!



I love the sound of purge. I wish there wasn't snow on the roads, I can't wait to try out the new horn button!




The verdict: My friends and either jealous, think I'm crazy or both, My father wants a kit for his sled (Yamaha Apex, yeah the one with the R-1 motor), and it now cost me and additional 9$ to "fill her up".
 

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MIdlife PIMP
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That is badass bro!!.i am about to do the same thing to my 05! I have the NX kit with the 1.25lb bottle....but i sure like your dual set up!!..also have the dual purge kit!...gonna have mine comin out the mirror block offs!!........but i really like the screen bolts hiding the exit on yours!!>very cool and shows alot of inginuity on your part!!
have you also seen the led lights that you can get to make the plume colored?.....bet they look super cool at night!!.........anyway.might be pm-ing you for some info or ideas when I go to install mine!!.......prob. in the next week or so!!.........good job........rep comin your way man!!!!
 

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Another Kawi-man with really good skills...very nice clean install!!:thumbsup:
 

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looks good
 

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MIdlife PIMP
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Dude!!..I wish i could rep ya again!!.you just gave me the idea for a personalized plate

BTL-RKT......
 

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MIdlife PIMP
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could you do a small write up of how you did the wiring to have the arm switch and the led's for arm and activated?......and how the purge is wired and plumbed in?.....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got almost everything i needed right from DynoTune. www.Dynotunenitrous.com The dual bottle kit w/ 20oz bottle upgrade and purge kit w/ dual nozzle upgrade ran 400 with shipping. only took three days to get here!

There is more than enough wiring and plumbing to put the bottles, solenoids and purge exits anywhere on the bike. I added a covered arming switch,(advance auto parts, $15), two auto relays, (radio shack, $5ea.) and two colored 12v LEDs, (radio shack, $2ea.). Below is the wiring diagram I drew up before starting. All automotive relays use a electromagnet to throw a switch inside the relay. Normally pins 30 and 87 are connected, when power flows through the solenoid the magnet flips over the switch inside and pins 30 and 87a are connected. I ran ignition power to the relays and the arm switch feeds them ground when turned on. after that your horn and lap button serve different functions. It should be noted that the horn button is a grounded-when-on switch and the lap button is a Power-when-on switch. This is why the spray solenoid is wired to receive a ground and the purge is wired to receive a power. It doesn't matter what you feed them, power or ground, they need both to work. Give them a constant feed of one and switch the other.

As far as running the plumbing... I just put it where ever it fit then secured it with zip ties, nothing special. I mounted the two spray nozzles in the underside of the air box to avoid fuel tank clearance issues and also to evenly distribute the gas without blowing through the air filter. For the purge a single line runs from the purge solenoid to a splitter block under the left dust cover, below the handle bar. From there two lines run behind the gauges and onto the back sides of the bolt i drilled through.

If any of you other guys have nitrous, let us see your setup. I really want to see a Throttle position safety switch, how it's mounted to the throttle bodies. I couldn't see any way without tearing them completely off the bike to fab something up.

 

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May i make a sugestion. Go to rado shack and get a small micro switch and mount it to the throttle body so that it is on at WOT. That way you just arm the switch and when you grab WOT your notrous comes on. and you dont haft to hold a button.

BTW: DO NOT SPRAY AT LESS THAN WOT or hit the rev liminter on the spray.

looks good though.
 

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hot hot hot... I want a kit so bad :) might get one in 2-3 weeks :) Need tires tho..

Nice set up man
 

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MIdlife PIMP
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Thanks for the write up man!!,started mine over the weekend and will be making the wiring harness tonight after work!!.will post thread w/ pics when I am done and will send you a pm also!!.........thanks again and super nice job on your install!!...
 

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Very nice. I went stealth with mine (http://zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=29367). The MPS kit came with a neat arming box/switching box, so no need for me to raid Radio Shack for once. :) The MPS switch gives you one break-gound and one break-hot circuit each to play with: it would work perfect for a set-up like that, hehe.

Did you get it Dyno'ed yet? I used a .035 jet and ended up with about a 38 RWHP gain. If you have a 'happy dyno' you might see the big 2-Oh, but don't sweat it if you don't (or get greedy and throw more pill at it). The improvement is the important part, not so much the end #.

I Didn't use a WOT switch, but I only had it mapped to run above 9.5K.... if you didn't have the throttle WTFO by then, something was wrong, heheh. Speaking of mapped, I'd get that done (if you want an idea of how much more you need to add for that jet, shoot me a pm, I can show you the map I have). The air temp sensor can do very little compensation, and you're going to want the air/fuel lower than the stock value the air temp is going to try to correct it to anyway... especially if you go to a bigger jet. The .035 jet will lean the A/F .7-1 full point. Be careful.

Cool stuff man, let us know how it works!!

PS Bottle temperature is now your new headache..... have fun with that one. :)
 

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how reliable is a dry kit for our 10's???
 
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