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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I recently purchased an 05 zx10r and I'm having some issues. I bought the bike about 500 miles away from my home and rode it back. The first couple hundred miles went fine with the bike running perfect. Then when I pulled in to a gas station it started having this issue. Basically it's very hard to get the bike going. Anything under 6000 rpm = almost no power and a lot of times if it's under load it refuses to rev up regardless of throttle input. I tested the cylinders and 2&3 seemed to not be working. I've replaced the plugs, coils and throttle bodies (including injectors) on all the cylinders since I didn't want to go in there again, but the problem is still there. The battery is old (has a date on it from 2011), but it holds 12.9 volts and with the bike on the voltage varies from 13.5v to 14v depending on rpms. The fuel pump is the stock one too, but when riding it back (rode it about 300 miles with this issue) it had normal power above 7-8000 rpm. If anyone has any suggestions I'd really appreciate it. I just want to ride my new bike lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I just pulled a plug to check it and it's golden brown. The bike has mostly just been idled and revved in neutral for testing plus a few laps around the block. It's golden brown though and doesn't look bad to me.
 

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I don't have the tools for that so I'll try to take it to a shop. Is compression something that can suddenly go bad mid ride? It didn't overheat or anything.
 

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I don't have the tools for that so I'll try to take it to a shop. Is compression something that can suddenly go bad mid ride? It didn't overheat or anything.
It can if the head gasket gave up the ghost. But it would not affect cylinders firing.

Do you have any other electrical mods like a power commander installed that could be causing problems?

I know you've checked your battery, since it's a few years old you might have it load tested. Borderline to bad batteries can cause all manner of electrical gremlins.

Trying to think of all the simple things you can check without spending money. You've changed everything electrical back to the throttle bodies.

Have you confirmed fuel is entering the both cylinders? No pinched lines, everything connected properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just did some more testing. I am sure fuel is getting there as I removed the secondaries so I could watch the throttle plates and into the valves. They are all spraying while the bike is running. I also noticed this characteristic: if I crack the throttle open just a bit it has no problem shooting up through the revs. If I open it wide though it falls flat. On load(while riding) it just doesn't have enough power to go hardly. It seems to me like the mixture is off. When I swapped injectors previously the two cylinders that weren't firing started firing again so they were likely clogged. So it's possible the fuel pressure regulator got clogged too so it's spraying too much fuel, but I'm not sure that would cause the issue. It's also possible the fuel pump got clogged causing not enough fuel. I'm hesitant to just replace that though since to replace the fpr I need the whole unit which is $120 on ebay. I'm gonna test the tps later too although I've tried two different ones(one on each throttle body) with no change.
 

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sounds like a fuel problem to me, prob something simple, blocked vent, kinked line......
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I agree it does seem like a fuel issue, but I know its spraying, it looks even and the fuel pump checks out it flowed about 2/3 of a cup during the priming cycle and I read anything over 1/3 means its good. I've been doing the testing with the tank lifted so I know the line isn't kinked, what vent might be blocked? Looking on ebay I found an ecu for about half what they usually go for in good condition. Thinking about trying that since I've heard ecu's can die in the heat and I was riding this back from cali in some of the hottest parts during the middle of the day.
 

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I wouldn't start spending money until you have a good diagnosis. I'd be very surprised if the ecu died in the Cali heat, I've ridden in blistering heat for years out west and never experienced anything like that. If you're sure you have fuel, all that remains is determining which cylinders aren't firing and why.

Have you checked for spark on each plug? Start at the plugs and work your way back.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I tested the cylinders by unplugging coils one at a time. The difference in how the motor ran when unplugging each one was pretty consistent. Wouldn't that also account for spark or no? I can pull the plugs for cylinder 2 and 3 and look at the color of spark when I get a chance too. I'd like to avoid tearing everything apart to get to the outside cylinders again if possible since I know the plugs and coils are good. I know I'm getting fuel but I don't have a way to know how much exactly. The pump is obviously working perfectly, but I don't know what pressure the FPR is holding it at when its actually running.
 

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Verify your MAP sensor (IAP sensor) is hooked up correctly and that the lines are leak/damage free, and then verify if voltage changes are going on at different load points... then do the same with your TPS sensor.... both of those can cause symptoms like you have now.

Fuel pressure is controlled by a spring loaded check valve in the pump body, and should remain a constant 43-ish psi. If that had failed in the closed or wide open position the bike would not idle. :)

Also, are the secondary throttle blades functioning properly? I would advise that you DL the factory service manual and follow the troubleshooting they have in there as well.... it's a really good starting point. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
BOP that is correct although it idles rough. I checked the tps and it checks out. How do I check the map sensor? I know it's that random thing under the seat but idk how to test it. I have the manual downloaded on my desktop and I've been looking through it although I always find it hard to use those to troubleshoot. The secondaries appear to function, but I took them out cause I know it should see run OK without them and it's easier to see what's going on with them removed. I'll put them back once I figure out the issue.
 

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You know this might sound crazy but maybe you got a bad batch of gas during your ride home. You mention the bike was running fine until you gassed up. Maybe remove and refill with some new stuff.

Trying to diagnose a bike fault over the internet feels like trying to rock climb wearing boxing gloves. It starts out as a noble cause but you quickly realize you've got an uphill battle.
 

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Trying to diagnose a bike fault over the internet feels like trying to rock climb wearing boxing gloves. It starts out as a noble cause but you quickly realize you've got an uphill battle.
Seriously the best quote on the internets today, bar none. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Haha I totally understand. I'm gonna bring it to a shop tomorrow cause I just don't have the tools to test it anymore. It went through multiple tanks of gas since the issue arose. If the fpr ends up being bad then it probably was bad gas.
 
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