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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, let me tell you how this is not the mod to do if you are just a minor bolt on person...this was a big PITA for me. So I had two mods to do 1)1/5th throttle mod and 2)Ivan's Block Off Plates. I decided to do these at the same time since the tank and airbox had to be off for both. First took off the tank...crazy. I was a little hesitant with this but not too much gas spillage. Then the airbox. Not too bad almost lost a bolt but pretty straight forward from the detailed instructions on the board and the manual. Then I didn't even know what I was looking for, but finally found it. That's where I crapped in my pants...how in the hell am I gonna get those off. Wish I took a before picture but only took the afters. I don't know if I'm stupid or have the wrong tools but how in the hell are you supposed to get these off easily? Anyways long story short, got them off and put the block off plates back on (hopefully with the right orientation). Here are some pics...





As you can see the friggin right one is behind tons of wiring. what you can't see is before I took the old plates out there was all this tubing in the way to even get to the LOCKTITE allen bolts...what a PITA! I actually took off my right mid fairing to get better access to hopefully make it easier to install the new plates see here...


Here is what the original pieces look like out of the bike


And here is my finished product


I reinstalled the middle piece because it plugged into something and I didn't want any lights or error going off but am not sure if I could have just left it out. I may go in from the side and try to get it out later if it doesn't matter because as I don't know what this mod does other than get rid of a decel pop noise I just cause a click noise coming from the valve I just left in...oh well. It was a fun day and a good experience as being some of the first times I've actually worked on my bike and I got the 1/5th throttle mod that's been sitting on my coffee table for months installed...sorry for the rant. just a little tired
 

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You can pull the air injection pump, it will not trigger any FI lights. I have had mine off since day one of owning the 10.

It just takes time to do them, but it will make it easier to mess with the 10 later on down the road when you start messing with the plug and such.
 

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sneaky said:
You can pull the air injection pump, it will not trigger any FI lights. I have had mine off since day one of owning the 10.

It just takes time to do them, but it will make it easier to mess with the 10 later on down the road when you start messing with the plug and such.
:+1:
I also wrapped the plug with electrical tape so nothing could get in it, just in case I decided to go back with the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I was thinking about takiing it out but didn't remember anybody saying anything about it...now I may just try and get it out without taking off the tank (from the side or something) since it's only held in by the plug plus everytime I get off the throttle I hear the click of it going off
It definitely cleans up some space down there though...reinstall had much more room for my fingers than trying to get the stock ones out
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For all those with Cali-spec bikes, did you remove the charcoal canister? I was wondering about it, pro's and con's, and if I did do I just cap the pipes/outlets coming from the bottom of the tank?(which is why I didn't do it initially, no caps) will it hurt the venting thing?
 

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Supraman78 said:
For all those with Cali-spec bikes, did you remove the charcoal canister?
Yes.

Supraman78 said:
I was wondering about it, pro's and con's,
Pros: less clutter around the front fairing area, no chance of over-filling the tank causing a no-start from the canister filling up.

Cons: minor environmental impact?


Supraman78 said:
and if I did do I just cap the pipes/outlets coming from the bottom of the tank?(which is why I didn't do it initially, no caps) will it hurt the venting thing?
Cap one, but not the other. To ensure you vent the proper tube, you can just blow through both hoses. One will vent to the tank filler area. That one needs to remain vented. Just run a new hose to the left side of the bike with the other vent and drain hoses, or wherever makes sense to you. Cap the other tube.

If you cap both the tubes, you can experience vacuum-lock or worse yet, collapse the tank. Not pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hmm...did you use the stock tubing for the drain plug? and do you remember which line you plugged? the red or the blue striped?
 

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I think I ended up buying some new fuel line, as the stock line wasn't long enough for the routing I wanted to go with. Can't remember for sure which line ended up getting plugged. You can test to see which one like I mentioned above, or someone else will probably post up with the correct color. Just can't remember right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
:+1: thanks for the info...
 

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Did anybody have trouble getting the plates to seal right, or maybe it was just mine, I could never get mine to fit where they were supposed to go correctly so I just left them out sitting in my shed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I didn't think that there was a problem with the fitting issue with my Ivan's plates. Shape seemed right and everything seemed flush. Which ones did you get? my only suggestion would be to end cap the stock ones like big daddy and others did
 

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1bad7 said:
Did anybody have trouble getting the plates to seal right, or maybe it was just mine, I could never get mine to fit where they were supposed to go correctly so I just left them out sitting in my shed.
Did you remove the reed-valve plates, or leave them in? Only time I've heard of a problem sealing the plates, is if someone has removed the reed-valves. They must remain in order to obtain a good seal.
 

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I did the same way BD did, caps with zip ties. For the money it wont matter as with the 10 and a my slip on I still get decel pop, which I wont get rid of until I get the PCIII and have a map made for it.
 

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CanyonCarver said:
Did you remove the reed-valve plates, or leave them in? Only time I've heard of a problem sealing the plates, is if someone has removed the reed-valves. They must remain in order to obtain a good seal.

I tried both ways, and couldn't get it right either way so I just capped it like BD and the others said. This was a while ago, and being overseas I didn't want to go through calling Ivan(even though I have in the past) and/or shipping them back to get the right ones. Either way mine works fine now as it is. Thanks for the help though guys...that's why I love it here...soooooo much love. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19

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This mod may not nessesarily get rid of decel pop, I did it and still have a very pronounced decel pop with my M4 slip on.

It will prob take a PCIII and custom tune to finally get rid of mine.
 
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