Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
536 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'll be geting an Akra slip on tomorrow, and I'm considering doing the block-off plates too if I end up with a lot of popping on decel. How difficult is the procedure on the 10 compared to other bikes? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
Hi Crypto,

I had never had to do B/O plates on any other previous bikes, but it was quite a PITA on this one. It wasn't so much the plates themselves, although the small bolts are quite difficult to reach, specifically the LF bolt. It was just the hassle of taking off the air cleaner box and all the other related items. But since I had to get in there anyway to instal the PCIII USB, why not???

I bought the Dan Kyle plates for $28.95. They were very high quality, and come with the right length bolts. I recommend them highly. You will have to do some hose re-routing and blockoffs, but there are plenty of other write-ups here on the site that detail that process. Dig Daddy did a real nice one...and Dan Kyle will gladly offer you assistance over teh phone if you have any problems. He is an exceptionally nice man, very knowledgable, and very professional.

I feel the mod is worthwhile. I did not run the bike with the full header system without B/O plates as a comparison, but many on this and other sites have said you will get quite a lot of Decel popping without the plates. I have only had one or two very minor, muffled pops on decel with the B/O plates installed. A lot of loud popping is something that would bother me if it happened often.


In case you don't have it, here is Kyle's site:

www.kyleusa.com


Good luck,


JJ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,060 Posts
miykl said:
Go for $2 in vacuum caps and it's damn easy. Why spend $30 on something no one will ever see?
Because machined aluminum plates won't ever deteriorate and/or crack and split, or pop off, allowing a leak like a rubber vacuum cap could.
 

·
MIA Post Whore
Joined
·
8,727 Posts
CanyonCarver said:
Because machined aluminum plates won't ever deteriorate and/or crack and split, or pop off, allowing a leak like a rubber vacuum cap could.
I used zip ties to secure mine, "just in case". Also, if rot is a problem for the big thick caps used, you'll have other problems much sooner from the smaller thinner vacuum caps and tubes 3 inches away on the throttle bodies. ...unless the block off caps are exposed to much more direct heat contact...:dontknow: The caps on my Busted up Bloo Bike were/are there for a year (as of next week). Zero problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,311 Posts
Order them from Ivan, he has then for $35 but you also get the rubber caps and plates so you dont have to go to the store for other crap.

It isn't that hard but the bolts are difficult to get to and be patient with the fricking airbox, you will want to toss it across the road before long. I'd say probably 1.5 hours if you take your time...removing the fairings makes it a ton easier and should only take 20 minutes extra
 

·
MIA Post Whore
Joined
·
8,727 Posts
MAVRIK said:
true true...how is the new bike coming miykl
Got the replacement peg for my Gilles last night. Champ's no cut sliders and swing arm sliders on on the shelf. Barend mirror lens should be in early next week. Should have mave Pazzo levers back soon too. They are being repainted due to scuffs from the wreck. So by next week the bike should be 100%. Nothing left to do but beat Pesky!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,542 Posts
crispin said:
why do people care.

I think it is cool to have the popping noises.

It doesn't hurt the performance and sounds good.

Why get rid of it?
If you are developing the engine, they make life easier. When ever you goto a dyno, the air suction system has to be totally disabled. Plus they clean up the engine area, and save a little weight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,311 Posts
MAVRIK,
I had a small seep of oil that I tried to repair...SP8 helped me find that it was the top cover gasket hitting the cam guides. I took it all apart and had it reasembled in under 4 hours. I siliconed where the leak was coming from and hope that stops it...i can't ride the bike for a day so the silicone can totally cure.

Next tear down will be for the TRE/ignition advancer and hopefully not me trying to fix another small seep or an even bigger leak!

Oh how do I want the ignition advancer, but I am doing the TRE same day and same time...I hate that airbox
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
I have R&R the air box twice. Its not that difficult to me. I leave the rubber boots in place too. Just look at the angles in the frame and use the appropriate angles to tilt and twist. The second time it took about 5 mins to remove and the same to replace. Try not to fight it, its really not hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,167 Posts
crispin said:
why do people care.

I think it is cool to have the popping noises.

It doesn't hurt the performance and sounds good.

Why get rid of it?
:+1: Works great for spooking deer or dogs away :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,542 Posts
Bobster said:
I have R&R the air box twice. Its not that difficult to me. I leave the rubber boots in place too. Just look at the angles in the frame and use the appropriate angles to tilt and twist. The second time it took about 5 mins to remove and the same to replace. Try not to fight it, its really not hard.
That's a trick I have to learn. I can leave the boots when pull I the box out, but that's not the case putting it back in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,311 Posts
yep, just look at the angles, i got it in quicker yesterday than I could get it out??? WTF? was that about? Although I was happy I was able to get it out well enough.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top