bike wont start after wreck

Check the fuel pump relay and fuses. disconnect the harness from the pump to see if it is getting power to the pump. Might also be the tip over sensor as well.


:welcome: Trent BTW :welcome:

Dang, the collar bone snap! Kick stand switch, maybe. But I'd look at WHERE the damage exists and start from there. Trust recovery is well.

I thought the kick stand switch stops the engine from firing, or does it kill the fuel pump. the engine turns over, just needs fuel. when I press the start butten I hear a clicking. is the a relay

Its not the kick stand switch

I get fi error codes 34 and 14. 34 is exhaust valve butterfly valve, which has been on since I got the bike. it had a full akrapovic exhaust. code 14 is Water Temperature Sensor. im going to check that now. but I don't think it would stop fuel pump from prriming

It would help if you provided more details/pics. What side did the bike go down on? What have you replaced already? Have you checked the tip-over switch?

Bike went down on left side. I tested the voltage where the fuel pump plugs in. It has 3 wires. Black with yellow strip is negative. I get a constant 12 volts on green wire with black strip and nothing on the white wire with red strip. I read somewhere that I should get a 12 volt reading for about 3 seconds, which I imagine is the fuel pump priming. Fuel pump is replaced

Trent Robinson said:

Bike went down on left side. I tested the voltage where the fuel pump plugs in. It has 3 wires. Black with yellow strip is negative. I get a constant 12 volts on green wire with black strip and nothing on the white wire with red strip. I read somewhere that I should get a 12 volt reading for about 3 seconds, which I imagine is the fuel pump priming. Fuel pump is replaced

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So, like I said, have you checked the tip-over switch? Farting around with the fuel pump is most likely a futile endeavor. It's embedded in the tank and there's a very slim chance it would be damaged in a fall. But there are other things that power it that could cause it not to work. The tip-over switch, the ECU, the fuel pump relay, the fuse, the clutch safety switch, etc. The ECU will turn the fuel pump on for 4 secs to prime the rails. If you're not even getting that far with it, then you need to forget about the pump itself and figure out why the ECU isn't sending the signal.

The purpose of the tip-over switch is to kill power to the fuel pump to stop the engine in a wreck. It doesn't disable the starter. So if that is broken or still activated, then you'd see the exact symptoms you're describing.

I can hear the wheel in the tilt switch. I believe it is fine. like I said I am getting a constant 12 volts to the fuel pump on 1 wire. I have check the fuses. all good. I have inpected wiring harness on left side. all good. I disconnected the positive lead to battery to reset ecu. still nothing.

when I press the ignition I hear a loud clicking from starter relay and a mild clicking from relay box

Trent Robinson said:

I can hear the wheel in the tilt switch. I believe it is fine. like I said I am getting a constant 12 volts to the fuel pump on 1 wire. I have check the fuses. all good. I have inpected wiring harness on left side. all good. I disconnected the positive lead to battery to reset ecu. still nothing.

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The 12 volts constantly at the pump is irrelevant. The pump is activated by switching the ground side, not applying power to it. The relay and ECU switch the ground to complete the circuit and turn the pump on through the power wire you're reading. So, either the ECU is bad or the relay is bad.

BTW, disconnecting the ECU doesn't reset anything in it since there's nothing to reset.

Trent Robinson said:

when I press the ignition I hear a loud clicking from starter relay and a mild clicking from relay box

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Neither one of these things should be happening. The starter relay clicking means you have low voltage. Try jumpstarting the bike from your car. Just because the battery is showing 12 volts at the terminals doesn't mean it's good. Unless you do a load test on it to see what amperage it's pulling at startup, you don't know the true condition.

And certainly the relay box shouldn't be clicking either. That contains the fan relay, fuel pump relay, and headlight relay.

ok well im going to see if I can get a new relay box

Trent Robinson said:

ok well im going to see if I can get a new relay box

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Don't just go blindly replacing components. Isolate where the problem is and fix that problem. You've already wasted time and energy on the fuel pump itself when that's not your issue.

First things first, try jumpstarting the bike. This will help tell you if you're having a low-voltage condition that is causing the relays to not hold and are clicking. If it still does the same thing after jumping it, bypass the fuel pump relay and see if the pump will turn on. If it does, then you have your answer. If it doesn't then you have something else still wrong.

You are not very good at explaining the issue either. Maybe shoot a video and upload to YouTube so we can see and hear everything from key off to key on to starter button pushed.