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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So last year, my bike, gen4 10r, would hook street strip everything never any issues, sometimes it'd even shoot for the sky on the street let alone the track. Now for some reason I can't even get traction from a 60roll let alone a dig. Will spin some on the track too where it didn't before. The tire has rubber all tore up on it when I get home from trying to race. started at 15psi cold took it all the way down to 10 psi cold still won't get traction.

Now for what has changed, I did a motor swap but it's the same stock motor because I blew the old one. Changed my sprockets to steel versus aluminum rear before but same gearing. New chain which happens to also kick the tire out an extra 2", new tire, shinko hook up, and that is it. Not sure if the extra 2", from 64" to 66" or so, completely messed up the geometry or what happened....
 

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What settings do you have on the rear shock. That could be the problem. Track conditions and temps have a lot to do with hookup. Has it rained recently and made the track green. Does your track use VHT. Lots of variables as to why it will or won't hook up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No idea on shock settings, but I do know it worked great last year street and strip, i've cut as low as a 1.43 60' and this year I couldn't get under 1.5 cause spinning. almost never spun now with those changes it wont get any traction until 2nd gear on the street and it will kind of hook at the strip after I move out. They were using VHT that night I was there, everybody else said it was hooking great so it's most def a bike issue.

I could understand slight adjustment since I went a little longer but going from always hooking to no traction at all I don't understand it.

Here's my tire after roll racing, only like 2 pulls, it most def just spins. Should I shorten it back up 2" like it was last year?
 

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could be your not getting the weight transfer that you had with the 2 inch difference. Also pretty important to find out what your rear shock is set at. You should be full soft on compression in the rear to get the squat you need to make the tire hook up. Experiment with the rear tire pressures perhaps dropping a pound or two will make the tire hook better. The tire doesn't look bad but you will get more tire contact will a bit less pressure. What gear are you doing your burnout in Third gear is the best for doing a good burnout at wheel speed is higher putting more hear in the tire. From looking at your tire I think you should drop the pressure a bit more. Like I said lots of variables can affect traction.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I ran a shinko hook up last year aswell. Ran 13-14psi cold I believe and it hooked up no problems, 10 psi cold now. I can take a gander at the compression and go full soft, im maybe 150 fully geared. I generally just do 1st gear burnouts start middle lean each side for a few seconds then back to middle. Should I do anything with the dampening? Previous owner was also my weight and did a lot of drag racing so I know he messed with it a bit.

Ill try those few things tho see what it'll do, 66" shouldn't be too long to hook on the street. If those things don't work ill just shorten it back up 2".
 

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I ran a shinko hook up last year aswell. Ran 13-14psi cold I believe and it hooked up no problems, 10 psi cold now. I can take a gander at the compression and go full soft, im maybe 150 fully geared. I generally just do 1st gear burnouts start middle lean each side for a few seconds then back to middle. Should I do anything with the dampening? Previous owner was also my weight and did a lot of drag racing so I know he messed with it a bit.

Ill try those few things tho see what it'll do, 66" shouldn't be too long to hook on the street. If those things don't work ill just shorten it back up 2".
ya I wouldn't go lower than 10 pounds. First gear burnout is probably not getting enough heat into the tire. Like I said try third more heat. Like brat said slow rebound down. When you launch don't use the middle of the track launch in the car tire tracks that's where the rubber and better traction is if your not doing that already.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yea I always launch in the car tire, never had a issue last year constant 1.4s with a 1.43 60' 3.81 330's last year 2" shorter. I want to get into the 1.3s but that wont happen with it spinning like it is now lol. I really think just going 2" out took too much weight off the rear. Just never realized it'd make a huge difference with the bike.

I had tried 18psi cold to start with and lowered from there to where I am at now. No change really.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Haven't touched suspension, the motor may be running a little harder, trapped like 124.5 versus 123-124 normally so it's negligible. It has to be the stretch that's all i can think of.
 

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You could try adding preload to the rear spring.
 
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How cold was it where you stored the bike all winter? The compound could be shit.

Mickey Thompson wont even ship their drag radials if it is too cold out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My garage lol. It wasn't there all winter either, forgot when I got the tire but it was new for texas, garage gets colder then rest of the house but it's def not getting below freezing or anything.
 

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Hookup's aren't good for the street. They're so soft once you ride for a little bit they're like butter. If you're gonna do both street/strip get a power one if you can find one. Or a stealth. That's one reason my buddy won't even tune a bike on the dyno if it has a hookup on it. Once it gets really hot it just falls apart


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I've almost got 12 o' clock on the street with a hook up lol. I tried scootin my butt back and it'd still light the tire up from a roll. I will try to do some minor suspension adjustments I suppose if it doesn't help then ill just put it right back to where it was last year.

I do know when you try to dyno with a hookup you lose a lot of power lol. I wanna say it's been tested at 20rwhp from a hookup to say a battleax or whatever.
 
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