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I have a zx 10 r 2012 gen 4 bike starts easily after sitting for a day , I ride the bike for 30 mins temp goes up as expected but when I try to start it again the bikes cranks but drains instantly and won’t start unless I give it gas . I put a new battery , tested the stator by starting it and un plugging it , so would the last resort be the rectifier , p.s bike has 14000 miles and runs perfect only issue is when warm battery is to weak only starts when giving gas
 

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OK, let me instruct you on a few things here first.

The battery is used to turn the electric starter motor. If that electric starter motor runs too long because the engine won't start, it will drain the battery. Just like the battery in your cellphone if you use it too long. The alternator on the bike consists of 2 parts - a stator and a rotor. The alternator is used to supply electricity to the bike once the engine is running. Otherwise, the battery will be used to power the bike until it dies. The alternator puts out a variable Alternating Current (AC) like the outlets in your house do. At 4,000rpm, the alternator will put out 50 volts. The bike electronics runs on Direct Current (DC) at lower voltage than the alternator produces. Because of that, you need to rectify the electricity through something called a "recitfier" to change it from AC to DC and keep it at a constant voltage. If you unplugged the alternator like you claim, all you did is verify the battery had enough charge to run the bike all by itself it it wasn't being charged.

Your problem has nothing to do with the battery, the alternator, or the rectifier. The battery doesn't magically recharge itself when it's just sitting and the temperature drops. Nope, you have a fueling problem. If the engine starts fine when cold, but not when it's hot, that has nothing to with the temp of the battery. The injectors or fuel pump is clogged and the fuel isn't atomizing correctly when the engine is hot. You should be focusing your attention at that. The likely issue is the fuel pump is old and the fuel filter in it is clogged up a bit. If the filter or injectors are clogged, the fuel pressure drops and the fuel dribbles in if the engine is hot already. If you have to give it some "gas" (you mean throttle here), it's adding air to lean out the fuel to start. Again, that has nothing to do with the charging system or battery. Good luck with it!
 
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Thanks man so tell me this, what If I started it cold and let it run for maybe 5 minutes and then tried to start it again ?? And it’s dead ?
 

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Thanks man so tell me this, what If I started it cold and let it run for maybe 5 minutes and then tried to start it again ?? And it’s dead ?
You would have to define the term "dead" in more detail. After 5 mins you turn the key on and the dash doesn't light up at all? Or after 5 mins you turn the key on, everything lights up and you hit the button and nothing happens?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I mean after 5 mins I turn of the bike then turn it back on lights come on but no juice to crank the bike up
 

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Basically the last part you asked
OK, that's different. So, you turn the key on, press the starter button and nothing happens and the dash goes blank. When you release the starter button the dash lights up and it repeats that again every time you hit the button. Do I have that right? If so, I know exactly what's wrong with it.
 

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Yeah, so your starter motor is fried. It uses carbon brushes in it that wear down over time. They are held in with a metal plate/bracket. As they wear down on the motor, they create dust in the motor casing . When that plate is getting hot and all the carbon dust is in there, it's grounding out the electrical system and isn't able to engage the starter. The starter should be hot to the touch. You need a new starter motor. Your electrical system is fine.


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Except after trying to start the bike a bunch with a cooked starter, even though you have a new battery. I would take it in and do a warranty swap. Motorcycle batteries don't like to be deep cycled much
 

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Except after trying to start the bike a bunch with a cooked starter, even though you have a new battery. I would take it in and do a warranty swap. Motorcycle batteries don't like to be deep cycled much
This is correct, but he said it was already a new battery. The new battery shouldn't have cycled like that as the starter was just grounding out for a moment or 2. That shouldn't cause it to drop it down too much on a new battery and harm it. Depending on what battery it actually is.
 

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This is correct, but he said it was already a new battery. The new battery shouldn't have cycled like that as the starter was just grounding out for a moment or 2. That shouldn't cause it to drop it down too much on a new battery and harm it. Depending on what battery it actually is.
I figure. It's new. Do the swap. If it was a direct short enough so to kill the bike even after just starting 5 min prior. Why risk a shortened battery life when he can just get a fresh one. I just did that with my lithium that was a month old cause I had my internet go down while flashing and then while trying to fix the partial write the battery died enough my dash shut off so I swapped it out since still under warranty. No reason to risk it later
 

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I figure. It's new. Do the swap. If it was a direct short enough so to kill the bike even after just starting 5 min prior. Why risk a shortened battery life when he can just get a fresh one. I just did that with my lithium that was a month old cause I had my internet go down while flashing and then while trying to fix the partial write the battery died enough my dash shut off so I swapped it out since still under warranty. No reason to risk it later
Nope, not worth the risk if that's an option for him.

If the starter failed like I think it did, it wouldn't short to ground directly. The carbon build up of dust in there really just creates a barrier for the electricity to develop the power and creates excessive heat on it. I wouldn't except the battery to go bad from that, but if it can be swapped out then why not. (y) It's always a biotch when you brick your ECU from a dead battery while flashing it. Hate when that happens! :p;)
 

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Nope, not worth the risk if that's an option for him.

If the starter failed like I think it did, it wouldn't short to ground directly. The carbon build up of dust in there really just creates a barrier for the electricity to develop the power and creates excessive heat on it. I wouldn't except the battery to go bad from that, but if it can be swapped out then why not. (y) It's always a biotch when you brick your ECU from a dead battery while flashing it. Hate when that happens! :p;)
It's always super fun when your trying to get the flash done before 930 pm on a Friday night, so you don't piss the neighborhood off with the start stop 3 times crap and it happens. For the most part support isn't super responsive at that hour. Took me 2 days back and forth to get it worked out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Appreciate all of y’all , it’s hard to find good people. So lol lastly we checked the stator and half was burnt.
 

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Appreciate all of y’all , it’s hard to find good people. So lol lastly we checked the stator and half was burnt.
Yeah, it probably is. The resin around the stator coils discolors from the engine heat. That's not really directly indicative of the stator being bad, so don't worry about that right now. You would need to measure the voltage output of the alternator and into the rectifier/regulator to figure out if it's bad. Like I posted above, measuring the voltage out of the alternator should be around 50v AC at 4,000rpm. The voltage at the battery should be around 13volts DC. If you measure that, the stator is fine even with the "burnt" discoloration on it. Even if that's damaged and not working, that won't have anything to do with the starting problem. So don't get hung up on that and go resolve the starting problem!
 

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Appreciate all of y’all , it’s hard to find good people. So lol lastly we checked the stator and half was burnt.
How did you check the stator? Just looking at it isn't really a good way to know if it is ok. You have to check voltage output per pair of terminals. There are 3. So 3 different combos can be checked. They all need to output the same voltage AC while running. You can try and check resistance while not running but I'm not sure what u would be looking for that way. If one has a direct short vs the others not then that would be an indication of a bad stator. Like was said though. The stator should not be the issue with the bike not starting. A bike will run off of just battery alone for over 5 min. Even if the stator was toast, 5 min you should still be able to start the bike again
 
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