[10Arghh]

Non ABS bike here.

Hi I've had the shop I bought my gen 4 from recently send a replacement battery as I believed the stock Yuasa was faulty.

I live in the UK. It's cold and wet and I'm finding the bike won't start in the morning.

I'm only using it for a 20 minute commute at the moment (about 10 miles), but it always starts fine on the way home after the bike has been sitting for 8 hours or so.

They sent me an aftermarket (cheaper one) battery, and it is doing the same thing.

Bike won't start, turns over strong then slower and slower before resulting in clicks (after about 5 seconds of turnover).

I've rigged up some wiring to the battery now to use to connect to a spare battery from a GSXR1000 K5, so that I don't have to constantly remove the back of the ZX10R to access the battery.

Are these stock ZX10R batteries that bad? I know they are very small and have low CCAs but this is the first sports bike I've had this problem with.

Is it normal or is there a problem?

Must I use a trickle charger with this bike?

Thanks.

 

[renais]

I bought my gen4 with about 2.5K on the clock and after a short while had to change the battery due to non starting. The previous owner rarely used the bike which must have been left standing for long periods of time. I now have about 8K on the clock with no problems. I have an Optimate wired with a lead under the pillion seat, but I've never used it. have you used a multimeter to check voltages? The readings you should get are in the service manual. So, no. I don't think battery should be that bad

 

[10Arghh]

I bought my gen4 with about 2.5K on the clock and after a short while had to change the battery due to non starting. The previous owner rarely used the bike which must have been left standing for long periods of time. I now have about 8K on the clock with no problems. I have an Optimate wired with a lead under the pillion seat, but I've never used it. have you used a multimeter to check voltages? The readings you should get are in the service manual. So, no. I don't think battery should be that bad

No not used multimeter but will try tonight

 

[10Arghh]

have you used a multimeter to check voltages? The readings you should get are in the service manual. So, no. I don't think battery should be that bad

Oh crap

So without the bike running - 12.9v - Good
With the bike idling - 14.54v - Good
Reving to 5000 RPM - 14.46 - Bad

What am I looking at?

Alternator?

Reg / Rec?

Thanks...Looks like back to the dealer :headshake:

 

[renais]

Sorry m8, my knowledge of stuff like that is limited. The test procedure is in the manual though, if you have the right equipment.
I would suspect the reg/rect before the alternator tho

 

[LDH]

I only used mine for commuting for a few weeks when I first got it, but it did not charge very well and remained weak on a normal commute where i am droning along at steady low rpms. Apparently it does not like to really charge the battery unless you keep it spinning higher in the mid-range.

The Speed-Cell SBK battery I am using now that it is a track only bike fires it up like God himself just kickstarted it even on 30 degree mornings.

 

[10Arghh]

I would suspect the reg/rect before the alternator tho

Ok cheers mate...Wonder if I can get a reg / rec to test but don't really wanna start throwing parts at the problem and something dealer should deal with, but they're 160 miles away :headshake:

Apparently it does not like to really charge the battery unless you keep it spinning higher in the mid-range.

Ok thanks...Can anyone else chime in on this?

I didn't rev it past 5000 as it was late, but I wouldn't expect the voltage to go down when you rev it.

 

[Porschenut]

I'm no electrical expert but I don't think voltage is supposed to go up with more RPM. 12.9v at rest is a touch on the low side but my bike used to start just fine will even less (12.8ish on my Yuasa). Overall your voltages look ok I think. Can someone smarter than me let us know if I'm just an idiot? Does the manual say that 14.46 is bad? I seem to recall testing mine to see if the voltage went up when I gassed it and was initially surprised when it didn't.

Dang, I shouldn't say anything. I don't really know. Hope you get it sorted though.

 

[renais]

Bad connection somewhere ?

 

[Simon0721]

As for the manual, readings should be nearly the same as battery voltage with engine at idle, and then raise as rpm goes up (14.2-15.2V). If values are higher or lower, there must be a problem with the regulator or alternator. You should check the alternator voltage. Remove the grey lead from the regulator and start the engine. At 4000 rpm the voltage should be 49,6 or more, if it's lower there's a problem with the stator coil. If it's good you should check the regulator.

 

[C3L1CA]

Here is the process in the manual to check the stator and the regulator/rectifier.

I'd check those before you start throwing money at it.

 

[10Arghh]

Thanks.

So I'm getting around 60V AC at the alternator terminals going into the reg/rec when revving to 4000 RPM, but I only get something like 0.2V DC coming out of the reg/rec.

This is putting the multi-meter on the BK/W and BK/Y wired terminals.

I would have thought the voltage should be much higher coming from the reg/rec.

Are these the correct terminals to measure from, and what should I be seeing from a healthy reg/rec?

 

[Simon0721]

Thanks.

So I'm getting around 60V AC at the alternator terminals going into the reg/rec when revving to 4000 RPM, but I only get something like 0.2V DC coming out of the reg/rec.

This is putting the multi-meter on the BK/W and BK/Y wired terminals.

I would have thought the voltage should be much higher coming from the reg/rec.

Are these the correct terminals to measure from, and what should I be seeing from a healthy reg/rec?

Did you check the resistance as for the manual?

 

[10Arghh]

Did you check the resistance as for the manual?

I just went by this...

If the output voltage shows the value in the table, the alternator operates properly. The regulator / rectifier is damaged.

Also, the multimeter didn't have a 1k Ohm range as far as I could tell.

 

[Simon0721]

I just went by this...



Also, the multimeter didn't have a 1k Ohm range as far as I could tell.

Almost sure the regulator is bad. With a resistance test you could be 100% sure, since a new regulator costs around 250$.

 

[10Arghh]

Problem solved.

New reg/rec, new battery and the bike feels like it has gained some BHP, plus no more rich running.

Seems the power problems may have caused a weak spark, resulting in unburnt fuel.

Gonna change oil and plugs soon.