Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just put my 08 race cam in and aparently I screwed up. I put the cam in and put everything back in time, or so I thought. I turned the motor over by hand to see if anything was going to hit and it turned freely. Well, got everything put back together and started the bike and its makeing a whole lot of noise. Sounds like pistons and valves hitting. I just thought it was weird that I could turn the motor over with no problems and on startup it makes noise... any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,606 Posts
Pull the head off and take a look. There isn't any way they should hot if you could turn it over by hand but you need to look now. Can you take pics?
 

·
Gen 5 Now!!
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
if you were using the slotted sprockets on the cam then maybe one or both of the cam sprocket bolts loosened causing the timing to get screwed up. or the pistons werent at TDC when the cams were installed
I just put my 08 race cam in and aparently I screwed up. I put the cam in and put everything back in time, or so I thought. I turned the motor over by hand to see if anything was going to hit and it turned freely. Well, got everything put back together and started the bike and its makeing a whole lot of noise. Sounds like pistons and valves hitting. I just thought it was weird that I could turn the motor over with no problems and on startup it makes noise... any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
860 Posts
it may been just barely touching when cranked by hand but not enough to feel resistance. Now spinning much faster, the impact is louder and more pronounced. Parts tend to grow also as they heat up. Tear it down and make sure your valves are seating and that you didnt bend a valve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
390 Posts
I have the 08 intake / & stock exhaust in my 1st gen 10 - and changed the degree #'s three times - so ive been in there a bunch - Also had the Camshaft sprocket bolts slip (cause I didnt torque them proper) and even when the Camshaft Sprocket Advanced (which retards the intake cam) as far as it could (cause the bolts slipped) there was no contact between the valves and piston - after we figured out that the bike had lost power due to the slip of the Camshaft sprocket bolts - we checked the degree #'s of the intake and it had slipped to 125.5 on the intake and 102.5 on the exhaust. There was no piston to valve contact and thats with the .45 thin head gasket. SOOOO, I agree with previous comment that either when starting to degree cam in you werent at TDC or cams degreed in way off on both intake and exhaust.
My ADVICE: when cams are placed in the head the Intake should be pointing at about 10 oclock or 1030 and the Exhaust should be pointing 2 oclock / 2:30 - RELATIVE TO THE top of the cylinder head - thats a good start. Hope it helps - keep us updated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well, I haven't had time to tear back into it. I'll be doing that tomorrow. I'll keep everyone updated on what happened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,361 Posts
noise

its not hard to make that mistake. jl is right, u can turn a engine over touching lightly and not feel it, then clatter loudly running. if possible, i would ck leakdown before pulling head. also one sure sign of a tweaked or bent valve is noticeable increase in valve lash. i like to scribe my own marks on cam sprockets once correctly timed, seems to help me. u may need to pull head, maybe not, good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
235 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well, had a couple hours of free time tonight and started back on the bike. I took everything back apart and looked for loose pieces and found a dowel pin from one of the cam caps. It was mashed a little and I thought maybe thats what my noise was. I looked around and didnt find anything else. The lobes aren't hitting the cam caps and everything is fine inside the valve cover. I checked the timing one more time and with the line on the crank lined up in the inspection hole the lobes on the intake sit at 10 and the exhaust at 2. Thats the lobes right next to the sprockets. I put everything back together and fired it up and still making noise. I then pulled the fuel pump power and unplugged all the coils and opened the throttle all the way and just hit the starter to turn the motor over and watched all the valves on the intake side open and close. None of them appear to have hit at all as they are seating nicely. I'm all out of ideas and thinking about taking it somewhere to figure this out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Cam chain tensioner did you take a look and make sure you have proper tension on the chain?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,427 Posts
you never did post up your leak down numbers. I am just curious since the CCT check was Ok. If good: backtrack and pull the head and inspect. To me a rebuild on a low mileage motor is abit extreme. Good luck on what you decide to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
700 Posts
If it runs smooth i doubt the cam timing is off enough to hit a piston. Is the cam chain tight?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,614 Posts
Sounds like valve lash to me. Make sure your in the right timing marks when checking the valves. Also put some oil on the cam lobes, etc for start up. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
507 Posts
Well, had a couple hours of free time tonight and started back on the bike. I took everything back apart and looked for loose pieces and found a dowel pin from one of the cam caps. It was mashed a little and I thought maybe thats what my noise was. I looked around and didnt find anything else. The lobes aren't hitting the cam caps and everything is fine inside the valve cover. I checked the timing one more time and with the line on the crank lined up in the inspection hole the lobes on the intake sit at 10 and the exhaust at 2. Thats the lobes right next to the sprockets. I put everything back together and fired it up and still making noise. I then pulled the fuel pump power and unplugged all the coils and opened the throttle all the way and just hit the starter to turn the motor over and watched all the valves on the intake side open and close. None of them appear to have hit at all as they are seating nicely. I'm all out of ideas and thinking about taking it somewhere to figure this out.

i know its an old thread, but just incase you threw the bike in the corner and havent touched it sense

youre gonna have rod stretch, no matter if the motor is hot or cold. certain aftermarket rod manuf.s will even tell you how much stretch to expect at what rpm.

anyway, the line on the crank and case you are talking about...what cycliner are you degreeing off of? if its cyl 4 youre getting your degree numbers on (the cyl closest to those lines you speak of) the lines arent for TDC, they end up being BDC for cyl 4.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
well if u just replaced the cams and didn't check and change the shims under the buckets i guarantee thats whats making the noise. i had a inexperience fool work on my engine and put it back together with no shims and it made a lot of noise
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top