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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can you run auto-tune on an ECU that's been re-flashed? I know when you send an ECU off to be re-flashed whatever info that's on there is not accessible to the user. Does that mean that I would not be able to run autotune since the fuel map will be locked? :dontknow:
 

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The answer is...maybe.

If you're trying to auto-tune everything through the ECU, then no. That's not the way it works. If you're using a piggyback box to alter the fueling slightly after the commands leave the ECU, it doesn't matter what the flashed code in the ECU does.
 

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Can you run auto-tune on an ECU that's been re-flashed? I know when you send an ECU off to be re-flashed whatever info that's on there is not accessible to the user. Does that mean that I would not be able to run autotune since the fuel map will be locked? :dontknow:
FTECU ActiveTune in Live Correction Mode will modify AFR in real time with any FTECU map. If Live Correction mode is disabled, you cannot save the logged trims on a locked FTECU map. You can save the logged trims on an unlocked FTECU map. If you are not using an FTECU map, then I have no idea. You'd need to contact Flash Tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sounds like the ECU is locked down then.
Would the "read ECU" button on the FT software, to extract the tune, basically give me nothing or error-out then?
Don't want to press the read button if it's gonna screw something up or resets it :lol:
 

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Sounds like the ECU is locked down then.
Would the "read ECU" button on the FT software, to extract the tune, basically give me nothing or error-out then?
Don't want to press the read button if it's gonna screw something up or resets it :lol:

Should be able to read it, but it will still be locked, i.e. you won't see the stuff that's locked.

Just want to add that the Bosch wideband sensor lasts about 10,000 miles - unsure if that means you need a new one at 10,000, or it needs calibrated. The 10,000 figure came directly from FTECU support. FTECU sells the Bosch sensor individually should you ever need a new one.
 

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No reason to auto whatever on this bike. Flash is total waste, too. ivan's wire thing is interesting.
 

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No reason to auto whatever on this bike. Flash is total waste, too. ivan's wire thing is interesting.
If you want to tune it.. yes

Flashing allows for multiple adjustments to various parameters which are not a waste.
There is no wire modification for the gen5. In fact the wire mod ivan sort of pioneered for the gen4 was abandoned by ivan in favor of doing full flashes since it's vastly better.

Stop spreading bad info to people like you know wtf you're talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hes serious. Which makes him the worst troll of all.
I started reading his comment like "okay, everyone has an opinion on A/T", then I continued and immediately scrolled on :lol:
Seems like the A/T is kind of a hit or miss item though. Good to have but not necessary. I've also heard that if it's an "active" unit that adjusts as you ride it can sometimes blanket over fueling issues by blindly adjusting to your desired A/F. That's what I've heard, but either way I think for $2-300 I would rather start investing in either the Race SCU, or a race spec'd gen4 damper.
 

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I started reading his comment like "okay, everyone has an opinion on A/T", then I continued and immediately scrolled on :lol:
Seems like the A/T is kind of a hit or miss item though. Good to have but not necessary. I've also heard that if it's an "active" unit that adjusts as you ride it can sometimes blanket over fueling issues by blindly adjusting to your desired A/F. That's what I've heard, but either way I think for $2-300 I would rather start investing in either the Race SCU, or a race spec'd gen4 damper.
That's a good idea. The stock settings for the damper are not very aggressive. I hate it. Pretty much guaranteed to get the wobbles under hard acceleration with this bike, and there is just barely enough dampening to keep it under control.
 

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Not sure I would want to run an active autotune on these new bikes with traction/wheelie and engine brake control especially on track. Some of the tight tracks where your wheelie and traction are cutting in a lot the AFR reading is all over the place and impossible to autotune.

Make a map with all the electronic aids turned off with autotune is ok, but I wouldn’t be using any maps made with all the electronic aids active.


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Neuf makes some great points. I did not think of those when I tried mine, but anyway....

I did it. I already owned the autotune, and was very happy with my flash, so why not plug it in and see what I get?

It was very frustrating. I dont know if you have worked with autotune, but its not near as seamless, wonderful and easy as it sounds. Its not very easy to find the AFR you are searching for. Do you use whats suggested, from dynojet? The numbers you find online?

Im probably being silly, but we are using this auto tune to try and find "perfection". How do you do that by the sensations your ass feels?....you know what i mean...? What if, on this bike 13.8 is better than 13.5?

If you start with a terrible fuel map, it works pretty well. You do notice the suggested changes the auto-tune is making, and we you accept them, the bike runs better.

But, when your base map is good, and all the other built in, ECU issues have been dealt with, its past the point where you want to tune by how it feels.

Unless I could book some serious dyno time, I would not bother with it on a decent reflash.

Thats not to say it cannot be improved upon, but you need more subjective info than just a page of -2 and +3's. Once you get to a point where you dont really feel the changes it suggests, why bother?

I did find it entertaining, but its as-if this autotune is one part of a three part solution, and you are missing the other two parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Not sure I would want to run an active autotune on these new bikes with traction/wheelie and engine brake control especially on track. Some of the tight tracks where your wheelie and traction are cutting in a lot the AFR reading is all over the place and impossible to autotune.

Make a map with all the electronic aids turned off with autotune is ok, but I wouldn’t be using any maps made with all the electronic aids active.


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That's thinking outside the box for sure. Great info! :cool:
 

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That's thinking outside the box for sure. Great info! :cool:


I run two lambda sensors, one on cylinder 1 and the other on cylinder 2. If I just took the suggested changes from my datalogger my bike would be running no where near the AFR that I actually want it to run at. Engine brake makes the low throttle values inaccurate and traction/wheelie control makes the AFR jump around everywhere else.

So I actually have to go into the lap by lap analysis and see where my AFR is at different TPS/RPM. Autotune is good if used properly which is just on a stretch of road with riders aids off or on a dyno.


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I run two lambda sensors, one on cylinder 1 and the other on cylinder 2. If I just took the suggested changes from my datalogger my bike would be running no where near the AFR that I actually want it to run at. Engine brake makes the low throttle values inaccurate and traction/wheelie control makes the AFR jump around everywhere else.

So I actually have to go into the lap by lap analysis and see where my AFR is at different TPS/RPM. Autotune is good if used properly which is just on a stretch of road with riders aids off or on a dyno.


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Pretty sure OP rides street. Track is a completely different scenario. With his setup, he has access to a good tune for his exhaust, and stock air filter. However he is installing an aftermarket air filter with increased airflow. So unless he goes to an FTECU capable tuner, the active tune running live is a reasonable solution for a targeted AFR of 13, or if preferred he could go with a US or EURO unrestricted map, and run active tune in logging mode, saving the trims to the ECU. Eventually getting to what ever AFR he is looking for. Downside is he loses whatever (if anything else) was done to his locked tune.

This is what I do. I run active tune with a tune/mapping setup by the exhaust manufacture for my specific bike model/year and stock air filter. However I have the sprint p08 f1-85, which has a lot more airflow (and arguably a lot more debris getting sucked into the engine - I'll be checking soon after 1000 miles). IMO, my bike runs great. Doesn't stall, doesn't have trouble getting going, doesn't afterfire, burbles a lot at static rpm/decel, and screams get the fuck out of my way when WOT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
However I have the sprint p08 f1-85, which has a lot more airflow (and arguably a lot more debris getting sucked into the engine - I'll be checking soon after 1000 miles). IMO, my bike runs great. Doesn't stall, doesn't have trouble getting going, doesn't afterfire, burbles a lot at static rpm/decel, and screams get the fuck out of my way when WOT.
I'm loving my F1 filter. Supposedly it has as much filtration as the std P08, but it is very transparent when held up to light, so we'll see. You know as much as I do that they're not cheap! More than the P16's by a long shot so hopefully we got what we paid for. And yes I'm primarily street riding for the moment. Tracking my FZ hopefully soon though (a little cheaper than tracking the ZX and less risk).
 
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