There are so many hysterical flubs in there.... I don't know where to start. Full marks for for confidence, sure.... but not so much for accuracy. A few worth mentioning:
Most OEM systems go into open loop under high load. Closed loop systems are primarily an emissions control system in OEM applications, and almost all emissions testings are done well under full load.... even sound tests are done at half RPM of peak HP (in the USA, at least). Closed loop also shuts down under closed-throttle deceleration, as you're usually in fuel cut at that point and O2 feedback will do fuck-all. Idle and low-load are about the only places it does anything, really.
Aftermarket filters don't flow more than stock... they really haven't since the middle 2000's on most supersport machines.... maybe on something budget or poorly designed, but manufacturers haven't been giving away HP in filters for about a decade now... they're smart enough to design them with the proper flow potential.
In the same vein, modern cat. converters really don't restrict flow either. The OEM'S design them over-sized enough to meet the engines stock HP potential. I've done back to back testing on more than one de-cat project, and saw -zero- change in mph in every case. But it does make it quite a bit louder. If you see gains from people removing them & tuning, the gains are usually from tuning over a stock set-up, or switching to a less restrictive muffler or a header that changes peak torque output. Bastards are heavy & hot though, so there is something to be gained there by there removal.... to be fair.
14.5:1 afr's for cruising and low load are ideal. You may want a touch more when you are just opening the throttle to make it smooth, but how the fuck are you going to correct 0-2% throttle openings with this Miracle Pill? You can make it too fat everywhere and sell the improvement in throttle response!! Brilliant, right? Orrrrr.... you can flash/tune just the appropriate parts of the map with a real tuning tool. Tough choice, right?
Flat out, this shit is 95% snake oil. I'm not a Power Commander nut swinger, but a PC is superior in almost every aspect here. Whatever changes this thing does to your fueling a power commander or ECU flash can do better. Period. You have to pay a bit more, but that's the name of the game... pay half for a half ass product or spend the full amount for the full benefit. While it's true that most modern OEM set-ups can benefit from a little more fuel just about everywhere, paying 160 bucks to screw with your IAT sensor to do it is asinine, at best. If you really buy into that, just crush your FPR to about 48-50psi. Hell, I'll do that for ya for 20 bucks, including the shipping.
