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Discussion Starter #1
We'll be rebuilding an 04-05 engine for my race car soon and I'd like to do whatever I can to help it live a long life. Just wondering if people have suggestions for things we should do/replace/watch out for.

I'm aware of the early 04 generator problems.

How are things like valve springs and other valve train parts? We'll probably install new valves (I dropped a valve in my last engine - would like to avoid that again. :). My rules require stock internals, so I wont be running high lift cams or high compression. I might, however, consider other parts if Kawasaki's have had problems.

How about transmission parts?

Thanks in advance.
 

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dont forget about the retainers.. Mine were bad and broken.
 

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well for the trans you can get it sent out to R&D motorsports and get them to undercut the trans for you, they also magnaflux the all gears and shafts to see if they have cracks... they also have billet shift shafts, while your in there you should replace the shift forks though or well inspect them and see if there is any wear other then where they should be contacting the gears....

I've been inside alot of 10rs and the only thing i have seen fail really valve spring retainers..... carpenter sells a kit with springs and retainers for almost 400 bux, i know its a bit but it is very good insurance.... if not you can buy just the retainers but they are about 200 bucks....

maybe run a manual cam chain tensioner since i have seen those fail quite a few times.... not damaging anything just making noise......

I havent seen any really bad valve issues really but I do know that someone makes stainless valves....

just my .$02 :thumbsup:
 

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What are you allowed to do to the motor. That's the question. Do a little rule bending:thumbsup:

You can bump compression without pistons
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What are you allowed to do to the motor. That's the question. Do a little rule bending:thumbsup:

You can bump compression without pistons
We can do external mods, such as PC, intake, exhaust. The engine's internals must remain stock. We have been running the thin head gasket, but I don't feel too guilty about that little bit of rule bending. It's a Kaw part, and I'm still well short of the HP that front runners are making. Several guys have 07-08 GSXR engines built by professional racing engine builders. They do dyno tuning, etc. I had hoped to at least have a Power Commander by now, but have had to spend my money on other things.

My main goal now is reliability and longevity. I just want to drive. I'm tired of working on this car and not being able to enjoy it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've been inside alot of 10rs and the only thing i have seen fail really valve spring retainers..... carpenter sells a kit with springs and retainers for almost 400 bux, i know its a bit but it is very good insurance.... if not you can buy just the retainers but they are about 200 bucks....
Who is "carpenter"?

I might be willing to spend that money, especially if it means reliable parts, and they can be reused if needed.

maybe run a manual cam chain tensioner since i have seen those fail quite a few times.... not damaging anything just making noise......
I've considered that, even though it's not legal. I doubt any competitors would mind or protest. One thing keeping me from that is I wasn't sure if my manual tensioning would be better than Kaw's automatic tensioning. :).

I haven't seen any really bad valve issues really but I do know that someone makes stainless valves....

just my .$02 :thumbsup:
How much are stainless valves (ball park)? I just bought some new Kaw titanium exhaust valves from a ZX10R.net member (Thanks, Dean). Maybe stainless intake valves would be an additional improvement?

I appreciate the responses. Thanks, guys.
 

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Speed Freak
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the intakes are not Ti but i dont think they are SS??? not sure to be honest.... I know Ferrera I think is the one who makes valves and one other guy, I'll find out, dont know exactly how much

Carpenter racing http://www.carpenterracing.com/ they have the springs and retainers, i can get them for you as well.....

he cam chain tensioner does work well but they do jam and get noisy.... if anythign just make sure shes working good :-D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Russ are you running a dry sump system?
Yes, and it works pretty well. I shimmed the oil pressure relief spring earlier this year and have since had a steady 60 lb. of pressure according to the data.

I did hear about something interesting recently. You know how the stock Kawasaki oil pressure relief valve dumps oil into the pan? Well, some racer was experiencing a down-on-power issue during certain circumstances and traced it to too much oil for the scavenge pump to keep up with the volume. His clever solution was to block off the stock relief valve and relocate it to outside the engine - in the remote oil tank (via -8AN line).

I'm considering that mod but hesitating because I don't want to dump uncooled oil into the remote tank. In our race cars we are battling high oil temps. Mine is under control now but this mod would be a step backwards. I'm trying to think of a way to plumb it so the bypassed oil is routed through an oil cooler.
 

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I have seen the issue you describe a lot with dry sumps under or over working , one in particular was a Dallara 2 seater with a very poor engine fit, the sump was so bad that eventually it would overfill and then cause serious frothing problems from windage , there was no seperator in the tank and although the oil would seem to run cool , it was so full of air that the engine used to destroy itself after one weekend.

I dont think there is anything wrong with uncooled oil in the tank especially a high capacity one, if its located correctly it would be the best oil cooler you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I dont think there is anything wrong with uncooled oil in the tank especially a high capacity one, if its located correctly it would be the best oil cooler you have.
Ah, you've raised good points. My oil tank is well designed (tangent inlet with several baffles), BUT it is not high capacity, and it is centrally located in the chassis (nowhere near moving air). When I was building the car I was more concerned with finding places to put things. It was a challenge to find a location for the oil tank. Those two seaters have lots of room compared to my car. Pretty much every area under my bodywork is crammed with stuff.
 

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Ah, you've raised good points. My oil tank is well designed (tangent inlet with several baffles), BUT it is not high capacity, and it is centrally located in the chassis (nowhere near moving air). When I was building the car I was more concerned with finding places to put things. It was a challenge to find a location for the oil tank. Those two seaters have lots of room compared to my car. Pretty much every area under my bodywork is crammed with stuff.
If you have a -8 line on the scavenge side you can use a 10 row Setrab cooler and lay it flat if you have to, they work really well even if air only passes over them and not necesarily through them, they even work well behind the radiator.
 

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not trying to TJ...but that avatar pic is great FAF :lol:
 

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where did you get the drysump setup from?????
 

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not trying to TJ...but that avatar pic is great FAF :lol:
Just a bit of harmless fun ( actually I am an ethnic alien part of a global conspiracy formed by a covert splinter group of the New World Order, be careful I am secretly genetically engineering all newborns to look like another race , to cause chaos and disharmony amongst everyday people , we are also changing the laws of physics to confuse the military before our final destruction of this planet in 2012 , the plan is working , my name is Obama Sin Dalen and I approve this message).
 

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^^^ :lol: :lol: nice heh
 
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