Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 20 of 298 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,164 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well after having a bad ending to my intro into racing (final 3 races at RACE) where I spun a rod bearing then taking an intake valve shortly after the repair on my 2008 GSXR 1000 sbk, I decided it was time to cut my losses. I picked up a shiny almost new ZX10 with 1700km on it to turn into my new love. I know this is not a cost effective way to get on the track but after having two motor failures, any bike I picked up would have a full rebuild before it hit the track (roughly 3-$4000). This way I start fresh and can mod to my desire and make the bike my own.



I started off riding the bike home (roughly 200km) and felt fairly comfortable with the ergo's right away. Once I got it home and found a couple safe backroads I wanted to see what all the hype was with this bike. Needless to say it was impressive but not what I was expecting. These bikes come heavily restricted from the factory so after a little research I found out by grounding a wire from the ecu it puts the bike into a neutral map where the secondaries don't close at higher rpm, so by day two the bike had already had its first "mod". One quick jaunt and the bike showed what it was really made of! It pulls extremely well past 10,000rpm and if I dare say wouldn't give up much to my GSXR that was built pushing 180whp on U4.4.

I started getting the build under way by removing all the nice shiny painted bits and unnecessary street parts (beside the kick stand).



I picked up a few parts that I knew I would change right away such as Vortex rearsets



Renthal clipons, STM switches, Pro-Taper adjustable clutch perch



Brembo 19x18



Fairing stay with a bigger ram air intake from the UK (http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/181680345840?nav=SEARCH). You can also see the Lightech remote brake adjuster, ProTaper adjustable clutch perch and my homemade rad guard.



And a few bling parts.



I also removed the OEM wiring harness and ECU. By the time it added the cost of a quick shifter to a piggyback system the price was within a couple hundred dollars but this way I have much more adjustability.

Old harness



Race harness and ECU




After removing the OEM harness there was plenty of room to add a set of block off plates so I took the opportunity to get it done while I was there.



Started a bit of the race wiring to keep everything where it's suppose to be.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,164 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Installed a new FMF apex exhaust and carbon fiber hanger





I found a great deal on a set of Hotbodies bodywork off the forum and even though I heard how bad they are I decided to see just how bad they could be. Well they're all that and more! I had to trim the oem undertail 1/2" to get the tail section to slide foreward far enough so that the recess lines up on the subframe. I also had to cut and shape the front of the seat pan to get it to fit and the recesses are still extremely crooked that mount to the tank but it'll have to do for now. This will become my spare bodywork later in the season.




I've been having a hell of a time trying to decide what I wanted to run as far as suspension goes until I was lead to a great deal on a set of K-tech 20DDS fork cartridges. Originally they were out of the budget and I was undecided if going with a gas charged fork was really worth the extra expense. This deal made my decision for me. They'll be paired up with the K-tech 35DDS rear shock.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
If go for another set of bodywork, consider the Armour Bodies set. I've had the same set on my race bike for 2 years, going on 3 now. Been through 2 highsides and a lowside (repaired of course). Fits great and light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,164 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Keep up the good work !!
Sure will, not quite done yet

If go for another set of bodywork, consider the Armour Bodies set. I've had the same set on my race bike for 2 years, going on 3 now. Been through 2 highsides and a lowside (repaired of course). Fits great and light.
That's what I had planned on using but this was almost 1/3 of the cost but my time and aggravation just fitting it was not worth the savings never mind the prep that I need to do now before I can paint it.

The front didn't go as bad as the tail. Took roughly an hour to get it on and drilled but I have to do some trimming again and the bracket they use to attach the belly pan is part of the kickstand so I'll have to fab somthing up there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
Damn dricked, you got my same suspension setup! Nice. Bike’s looking great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,164 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Damn dricked, you got my same suspension setup! Nice. Bike’s looking great.
Lol sure did! I was on the fence between the regular K-tech forks and shock or AK-20 gas forks and Penske rear. For the price the AK/Penske setup is hard to beat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,868 Posts
Very nice! Subscribed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
may I ask what you paid for your K-Tech setup? PM me if you don't want to post.
my setup was $2,500 installed.. killer deal!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,164 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
may I ask what you paid for your K-Tech setup? PM me if you don't want to post.
my setup was $2,500 installed.. killer deal!
I'll be in it for more than that. I scored the cartridges off ebay for $1050 shipped brand new and then whatever the shock costs. I'll install the shock/linkage but have the forks done by my tuner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
what rear linkage are you using?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,164 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
what rear linkage are you using?
Probably the one from Kyle racing. It was developed by John Cornwell and he's at most of our national rounds. Unless I find another smoking deal on a different one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
Hmmm.. don’t think I’d go with the best deal on this part, go with the best product. It’s a key linkage in the system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,164 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
There's a few different linkages with good reviews, without being able to try all of them I wouldn't be able to pick which one I prefer. If I stick with one of those options I'm sure it'll will be more than good enough for me right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
if you want some more info on this PM me, I'll be happy to share with you what I've learned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,641 Posts
I've got the Kyle Racing one (of course), but the new TTX-GP shocks won't be in until later this week so I have just been looking at it sitting all lonely and shit on my counter. I'd be very interested in hearing any real world rider reviews of it before I start my testing process.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,606 Posts
I've got the Kyle Racing one (of course), but the new TTX-GP shocks won't be in until later this week so I have just been looking at it sitting all lonely and shit on my counter. I'd be very interested in hearing any real world rider reviews of it before I start my testing process.

I have the DK link and the TTX valved for it. I had to go to harder valving than what Dan initially installed.

When going to the link I went from a 110 spring to a 105 spring.

I found that the bike held itself up in high G corners better. It would hold a tighter radius and finish corners. It feels very stiff when you first sit on it but works perfectly once at pace. My tire wear was better once it was dialed in however I found that the sweet spot for grip/tire wear is narrower once the link was installed.

Best part about buying the DK link is having Dan as a resource if you need help getting setup.
 
1 - 20 of 298 Posts
Top