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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok, I searched and searched, but I can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I want to switch to the 16T sprocket, but I remember someone saying it was more noisey than the stock. I think someone posted that a stock 16T sprocket from another bike included the rubber noise damper (not sure whatelse to call it) and would work on the 10? Anyone remember or know what it was?
One more thing..exactly how many MPH will the speedo off (I'll get the healer later)?
thanks
 

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When changing to a 16T front sprocket, do you need to change the chain out as well? I know the lenght will still work, maybe increase the wheel base slightly....but usually its said to change both sprockets and chain out at the same time becuase they wear together.....
 

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just shorten it or pull the wheel in.

My question= Does this sprocket get rid of the bogg?
 

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TTLex said:
When changing to a 16T front sprocket, do you need to change the chain out as well? I know the lenght will still work, maybe increase the wheel base slightly....but usually its said to change both sprockets and chain out at the same time becuase they wear together.....
Probably depends on how many miles you have when you swap sprockets. I swapped to a 16t within a few hundred miles so I didn't worry about the chain and rear sprocket. If you've got a couple thousand miles or more it might be wise to change it all together. It has probably established a certain wear pattern by then and will probably wear faster if you only change one sprocket.

I swapped early in mileage on both my busa and the 10 and didn't see any noticeable wear when I got rid of either one... :dontknow:
 

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sczx10r said:
just shorten it or pull the wheel in.

My question= Does this sprocket get rid of the bogg?
What bog? My 10 never bogged. It's down on torque at lower RPM's but no bog anywhere in the RPM range... If you're asking whether or not the 16t improves low end grunt, yes, it helps. It doesn't make it a torque monster from stoplights during normal take offs but it does multiply torque more than the stock gearing.
 

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<<My question= Does this sprocket get rid of the bogg?>>

The bike's ECU is programmed to retard the timing for a fraction of a second upon closing/reopening of the throttle under low RPM conditions, hence the bog. They ALL will do it if not modified, unless you wring it out each time you shift it! I'm not sure what the RPM threshold is, but your local Kaw dealer service man should know, if they'll admit this is the case. It's apparently done as some sort of a liability issue to Kawasaki, but I think it's b.s.! There's no excuse for a bike of this caliber to be missing or bogging anywhere! You can find people that sell components to stop this condition-some sort of a signal-blocker. Or you can just bang every gear instead and not worry about it! Hold on is all I can say if so!!
 
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