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Discussion Starter #41
All Gens: So, your "FI" light is on.....

Sorry, don't mean anything personally. I really enjoy reading your posts and I like learning as much as I can about the machine I get on. :) Interested to know about your username. I assume some relation to aviation. :)

I didn't take it personally at all! It's all good. That was sarcasm.:wink:

Yes, aviation related as I went to school to be a pilot but ended up as a flight simulator engineer.
 

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Ah 15 years Air Force here. Wanted to be a fighter pilot but ended up just being a Crew Chief on fighters for 11 of those years (F-16, F-4, A-10). I did get a ride in my F-4 though and did do engine runs on them which is about the closest I got (other than flying Cessnas).
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Ah 15 years Air Force here. Wanted to be a fighter pilot but ended up just being a Crew Chief on fighters for 11 of those years (F-16, F-4, A-10). I did get a ride in my F-4 though and did do engine runs on them which is about the closest I got (other than flying Cessnas).

Badass. Mostly helo aims for me. CH-53, CH-46, H-60, etc
 

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Ah, sorry for the derail on the thread. :) There was a time I thought about leaving the Air Force and going into the Army on the warrant officer program to fly helicopters. I even went down and took the written test at Fort Jackson and scored very well on it. But, before going too much farther with that I decided it would be harder on the family life so didn't pursue it further.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I wonder what could be wrong with it. I just changed tires so I guess ill have to double check everything

You nicked a wire, the sensor got struck, the sensor is dirty, the sensor is spaced to far from the sensor ring, the sensor ring is damaged, etc. Should not be too hard to pinpoint
 

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I have a 2008 with the following mods: block off plates, quickshifter (blue monkey motorsports QSE), Brocks full exhaust, Bazzaz, and servo eliminator. Currently showing a code 64 (Air switching valve malfunction, wiring open or short).

Any suggestions on what to check after making sure that all connections are solid? My brother put it together for me and rode it to make sure that nothing major was wrong, and says that it rides solid except for some slight decel popping at speed. He's a dedicated Suzuki (Busa worshiper more like it), and he had a big ass grin on his face after bringing it back.
 

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The switching valve is on top of your cam cover and connects the 2 ports that feed into the exhaust ports for smog. There is very little in that valve, it can be easily checked; according to the manual the resistance between the 2 pins should be 20-24 ohms and it shows how to connect it directly to the battery to check the internal operation. Looking at the schematic it would appear the W/R is the voltage and the R/BL goes to the ECU and most likely is grounded in the ecu. I'm not at the shop so I do not have one to look at but when you have it off and in the orientation shown in the manual you can verify which is the voltage side and which the ground, that will also tell you if the ecu is grounding or providing voltage.
If the valve is good then you have check out the ecu/wiring: if the ecu is grounding Vs providing voltage then with the ignition on a volt meter set to ohms and placed between the R/BL to ground should have continuity if it does not then either the wiring is bad or the ecu. I'm betting it is not the ecu.
The ports in the cam cover are blocked off in my engines so I do not use this and just ignore the code ( I can do that in my application) or put the 24 ohm resistor in the wiring harness where I cut out the connector.
If it turns out yours is bad (switching valve) I'll be happy to give one if you pay postage.
David
 

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The switching valve is on top of your cam cover and connects the 2 ports that feed into the exhaust ports for smog. There is very little in that valve, it can be easily checked; according to the manual the resistance between the 2 pins should be 20-24 ohms and it shows how to connect it directly to the battery to check the internal operation. Looking at the schematic it would appear the W/R is the voltage and the R/BL goes to the ECU and most likely is grounded in the ecu. I'm not at the shop so I do not have one to look at but when you have it off and in the orientation shown in the manual you can verify which is the voltage side and which the ground, that will also tell you if the ecu is grounding or providing voltage.
If the valve is good then you have check out the ecu/wiring: if the ecu is grounding Vs providing voltage then with the ignition on a volt meter set to ohms and placed between the R/BL to ground should have continuity if it does not then either the wiring is bad or the ecu. I'm betting it is not the ecu.
The ports in the cam cover are blocked off in my engines so I do not use this and just ignore the code ( I can do that in my application) or put the 24 ohm resistor in the wiring harness where I cut out the connector.
If it turns out yours is bad (switching valve) I'll be happy to give one if you pay postage.
David
So far I've just been dealing w/ the light being on (even though it's a pain in the ass). I haven't been able to ride much anyway, so I'll take a look when the riding season is over with. Thanks for the offer though, really appreciate it.
 

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I need to ask for help from the big brains in the thread here please...
Have just gotten my bike back (which is track-only now) from the mechanic/tuner, fixing a tune issue. That tune issue is now resolved, and the bike is now putting out the performance that it should; a-la new dyno numbers any way. (bike- 2013, and apparently a 'California' model, since I have/had a bunch of hoses that went to this tall square box for emissions or something, now all removed, except the hoses are plugged, and those were removed before the scenario below, which has just now unfolded, with no error codes on the bike before now)
Unfortunately, it has been returned to me, with the red FI light on, and a "I'll see what this may be", but I have the bike home, and he never looked up the FI code...
Definitely want to say a big 'Thanks' to all for the good threads and moderators, and a useful Search feature, which has gotten me this far.
Where I'm now stuck, and don't have the mechanical knowledge, is where to go next...
The bike is showing code '2d', and I have downloaded the service manual, and understand this is something for "Air Intake Solenoid Valve (Service Code 2d, Equipped Models)". I spoke to the mechanic, and he did say that he took off the air box to get at the ECU. Perhaps, he left something unplugged? He cannot say for sure.
Has anyone seen this, can someone please tip me to the best thing to check first, as he's a 35-mile drive away across Dallas, along with $6 in tolls each way (loading it in / out of the truck bed, etc)?
-Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
All Gens: So, your "FI" light is on.....

I need to ask for help from the big brains in the thread here please...

Have just gotten my bike back (which is track-only now) from the mechanic/tuner, fixing a tune issue. That tune issue is now resolved, and the bike is now putting out the performance that it should; a-la new dyno numbers any way. (bike- 2013, and apparently a 'California' model, since I have/had a bunch of hoses that went to this tall square box for emissions or something, now all removed, except the hoses are plugged, and those were removed before the scenario below, which has just now unfolded, with no error codes on the bike before now)

Unfortunately, it has been returned to me, with the red FI light on, and a "I'll see what this may be", but I have the bike home, and he never looked up the FI code...

Definitely want to say a big 'Thanks' to all for the good threads and moderators, and a useful Search feature, which has gotten me this far.

Where I'm now stuck, and don't have the mechanical knowledge, is where to go next...

The bike is showing code '2d', and I have downloaded the service manual, and understand this is something for "Air Intake Solenoid Valve (Service Code 2d, Equipped Models)". I spoke to the mechanic, and he did say that he took off the air box to get at the ECU. Perhaps, he left something unplugged? He cannot say for sure.

Has anyone seen this, can someone please tip me to the best thing to check first, as he's a 35-mile drive away across Dallas, along with $6 in tolls each way (loading it in / out of the truck bed, etc)?

-Thanks!

As you've seen, the 2d code is the air intake solenoid valve. It's not on all models and is different than the air switching valve on top of the motor. That intake valve connector is located up in the front cowling and most likely didn't get plugged back in. Or the wires got damaged. Or maybe he removed it. You need to get to it and check the connection first thing.
 

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Thanks Sky, appreciate the input.
What I hadn't noted in the first message too, about this issue, was that the picture in the service manual shows hardware that I simply didn't have on my bike.
Took the bike back to the mechanic today, and he yanked the tank and inspected. Found nothing wrong.
Pulled the ECU, and ran a Read on it. Found the problem. When he last flashed it, there were some check-box items to disable certain things, which he didn't do. Set all those items, put it back in the bike, and now no more red FI light on.
Now, onto Barber in two weekend! Yeehaw!
 

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Hey fellas, I got an FI light with a 39 error code on my 2011, not sure how I should take care of this or what is causing it.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Hey fellas, I got an FI light with a 39 error code on my 2011, not sure how I should take care of this or what is causing it.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Come on buddy. Really? That's your FIRST post on the site?

It's not that difficult. All I did was go to Google, and type in "kawasaki zx-10r 39 error code"

...and WOW, look what was the very first article that comes up! Amazing!!!

http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f23/error-code-39-a-110715.html
 

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Gen 4
Subthrottle Valve Actuator (Service Code 62)

1. buy Capacitor 25v 500 microfarad, Resistor 8.2 Ohm 2 set.
2. Set this Resistor plus side on the actuator connector and than connect Capacitor (I had cut this connector and set there in line) (see pics)
3. take Subthrottle sensor and turn in 90 % not 100% and drill there and put some little pin and make stronger that not pull out.
4. that's all it will disappear your Code 62 but, if not, disconnect battery 2 or 3 minute and then connect, if there will be again this code trust me that you have not move normally your subthrottle sensor in 90 %,
5. Ok let's make like this that was not any mistake, take tool and turn manually with your hand first 60 % turn on ingnation if code will be turn off ignation and than turn in 70 % and atc...(but don't forget that this capasitor and resistor must already installed in Valve actuator connector.) when you will see that was disappear, remember this turn % in sensor, drill and pull there some pin :)

Note: when you will turn off this bodies sensor and actuator must already removed flappers of course :)

P.S. Sorry that I already post this in wrong section (Fail)
 

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Hello Everyone,

I need some help with my 2015 ZX 10R , it has Akra shorty slipon and 4000kms on it.
Today when I turned the ignition on I heard a wine from the servo motor and then saw the FI light on the dash, with the help of various threads I looked up the error b 19, b 35 being thrown on the dash.
I looked up further about the error codes, seems b 19 is for ESD and B 35 something about immobiliser, is it correct ?
From the sound of the servo motor it seems it is stuck and trying to move , may its gone bad or something.
Could these things be connected to each other ? could it be the battery.

Please could someone suggest something , I am trying to get the servo buddy if that might help also connected the battery tender to charge the battery.


Thanks
 

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Dude, I'm trying to access the info re a Gen 5 bike but the link is not working - can you help me out - I tripped a fault as rode the bike without the front ABS ring fitted (long story and not worth telling...) - the ABS light has cleared but I need to clear the clocks as everything else has turned off. Can you help please???
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Dude, I'm trying to access the info re a Gen 5 bike but the link is not working - can you help me out - I tripped a fault as rode the bike without the front ABS ring fitted (long story and not worth telling...) - the ABS light has cleared but I need to clear the clocks as everything else has turned off. Can you help please???
Hey! Yeah, this post is long over due for an update. Photobucket changed their 3rd party hosting policy and it stripped out the images I had put up there. I need to find the images and another way to host them. I'll work on that shortly.

As for your issue, if you've already corrected the problem then you can safely ignore the light. It will clear itself after a few things are done. If you don't have access to the Kawasaki Diagnostic tool, or a reflash kit, then you have to manually clear the code from memory. To do that, you have to do the following procedure...

1. Run the engine for more than 10 minutes
2. Let the engine idle for 30 seconds
3. Run the vehicle for 5 mins at a speed more than 40 kph (25mph)
4. Turn the ignition off
5. Repeat steps 1-4 for a total of 3 times

It's a pain, but that's the procedure. You can do the stuff above while riding the bike normally. It doesn't have to all be done at one time. So just keep riding and just make sure you follow these steps to clear it.
 
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