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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Well thanks to multiple members of the site for helping me understand the basics of electrical work :)

Anyway, I installed the Stebel Nautilus Compact Dual-Tone 12-Volt Air Horn, 139 dB. It packs a pretty good punch for sure!

I have an airhorn in my jeep & I enjoyed installing it. I have wanted an airhorn for a while but I wasnt sure where to mount a compressor in the cramped 10R. I also didnt want the horn to show or to be hanging off the bike.

I weigh in at a whopping 140-145lbs so the adding weight to the bike isnt a concern at all to me & to be honest, there is so much power I wouldnt miss what I am not already using.

So, lets start with the horn:



I already have it partially pulled apart (we need to do this unless you can find a spot to mount it in one piece).



Now in two pieces.



Now it is tapped, (using a 1/8 NPT tap - this is easy as it is plastic inside), with a 1/4 inch barb hose fitting on the end. If you could do a 1/8 to 1/4 end that would work fine. I used a few pieces, some teflon tape & called it a day :)

The hose used was 1/4 inch fuel hose. That fits very snug. In my jeep, I have a 3 gallon airtank, that supplys air for Air lockers (ARB), an air horn, & air tools for repairs on the trails. Plus it airs up the jeep nicely at the end of the day.

For the Bike, the compressor has no reserve tank so it really doesnt need to be air tight, but since thats the school I come from, thats how I do it. When the airhorn is triggered, it blasts the air in the line & out the horn, if there is any leakage, it might make the horn a little less loud but it shouldnt be a huge thing.

Anyway, on to the rest.

These next few photos show the various states of the compressor setup. I used the supplied relay & also used a nice spot to mount the relay.















Some of the other wiring is for my rear view camera setup, so dont mind that. It is also important to note that you need to put an inline fuse inbetween the positive on the battery & the relay. I have the relay in the compartment with the tools, so if I am on the road, I can pop the trunk & get to the fuse to shut it all down.

The airline itself (1/4 inch hose) is pretty easy to route. Here is the way I routed it up front:



Now the other side (where the horn gets mounted)



The place to mount the horn is tough since theres not many good locations. The best place I found is near the radiator/fork on the passenger side (is there a passenger side on a bike?)




It gets a little tight in there & I did not cut the plastic "wings" off, I found I used them.



Please note how close it is to the metal tab on the fork. The only thing this does (from what I can see) is hold a plastic tab for the wire routing. It doesnt look to useful to me. Either way it had to go as I was just barely touching (but touching to much). So, I took out those two long bolts (I guess they may hold the big metal thingy to the forks), removed the metal bracket, then reinstalled the two long bolts. (NOTE: This is not shown in my photos).



I then got rid of the zip tie ends & was good to go.

So, how does it sound?

(dont mind my mug)

http://www.zx-10r.net/horn/install/hornoff.avi

http://www.zx-10r.net/horn/install/bikeon.avi

For the 35 bucks for the horn, I am happy. I know in the quest for lighter & faster, this might not fit in, but it was a fun project.

Here is a place that makes the horn:

http://www.stebel.it/stebel/index2006.htm Click on "Products" then choose the motorcycle ICON & then Nautilus

Here is the place that sells the horn (not a sponsor, just some company):
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2137/

How to hook up a relay:
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/hornrelay.html
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Rich glad it worked out. :thumbsup:

The one thing I did notice though about your wireing is there seems to be power lines where the rear seat or a rear cowl can pinch those red wires. If you look at the rear of where a rear cowling will mount, it's metal to metal if you have an aftermarket cowl, and over time or some day it will pinch those wires and cause a short. I know it took sometime to get this going but as soon as you can re-route all those red wires under all rear metal bars/struts...other than that.....very very nice...:thumbsup:

Also, on the website link you posted...I think I was seeing things....what was the total costs? :dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
bluedevil said:
Rich glad it worked out. :thumbsup:

The one thing I did notice though about your wireing is there seems to be power lines where the rear seat or a rear cowl can pinch those red wires. If you look at the rear of where a rear cowling will mount, it's metal to metal if you have an aftermarket cowl, and over time or some day it will pinch those wires and cause a short. I know it took sometime to get this going but as soon as you can re-route all those red wires under all rear metal bars/struts...other than that.....very very nice...:thumbsup:

Also, on the website link you posted...I think I was seeing things....what was the total costs? :dontknow:
The red wires near the rear part of the seat cowl hook are the inline fuse that I flipped up to get out of the way, the fuse sits in the back (I forgot to put it down during photo time). The other red wires sit on the plastic insert (away from the seat cowl).

The red wires on the left in the photo, I drilled through the plastic & the wiring is running through the plastic, not on top. The part near the relay most of the wiring is resting on the bottom (good old gravity). That section is protected by that plastic between the seat & the rear cowl.

I am planning (at some point) to tape it all up to give it some extra protection.

The pricing should be $35.00. It was pretty cheap (or I suppose that is relative), but pretty cheap compared to the 10K price tag of the bike.

Thanks for your help with the electric! :thumbsup:
 

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Bloo Moderator
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RichTJ99 said:
The red wires near the rear part of the seat cowl hook are the inline fuse that I flipped up to get out of the way, the fuse sits in the back (I forgot to put it down during photo time). The other red wires sit on the plastic insert (away from the seat cowl).

The red wires on the left in the photo, I drilled through the plastic & the wiring is running through the plastic, not on top. The part near the relay most of the wiring is resting on the bottom (good old gravity). That section is protected by that plastic between the seat & the rear cowl.

I am planning (at some point) to tape it all up to give it some extra protection.

The pricing should be $35.00. It was pretty cheap (or I suppose that is relative), but pretty cheap compared to the 10K price tag of the bike.

Thanks for your help with the electric! :thumbsup:
That's good Rich....just didn't want you to have problems in the future, but sounds like you seen any future problems already.:thumbsup:

Yeah, $35 bucks for some extra safety...I want one too.....so will look into it as well, thanks.:thumbsup:
 

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Looks good is nice and loud but where did you end up putting the power commander? Good job!!!
 
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