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Very nice!!! If I didn't already have a Muzzy unit I would have bought that for the same price. You should start selling those man!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks, having problem posting pics, they came out at 2x on my computer, have to look at 50% for right perspective here. took about 3 hrs to make, drill and paint, also made accurate paper templates on copy machine if to duplicate.
 

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you might want a little longer arm on the end of the shift shaft to make sure it has enough leverage, i set them up to use the full 3 inches of travel, What i find if they are to short is missed 2ed sometime and having to set the kill time to 70-80 Milli seconds where with a longer arm i can drop the kill time to 45-55 Millay seconds. If you use a high torque cylinder or high pressure you are fine with a short arm.
 

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O side tip: you do not have to use a Digital kill box with a fuel injected bike the old school air kills work just fine, Even if the companys say then dont, Done it a 100 times(at least).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the bracket on the shift shaft is made from one inch square steel and can be refabed in about 30 min. longer if needed. thanks for input. u refering to old T kill? gonna run a small shot also. trying to stay cheap and simple, can u tell me how?
 

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Before i would remake it i would test it out and see how it shifts, Then if you had a problem you know where to look.

Great job BTW. I did not say that in the first post.

Yes the old t kill works just fine. What i do is cut all the Power wires from the fuel injectors and tie all them together, All the ones from the harness together and all the ones from the injectors together in two separate wires and then run the to the Com and NC(normally closed) on the t kill so when it triggers its cuts the power to the injectors. You can do the same with the spark plugs if you prefer to cut ignition(I prefer fuel).

Another trick to keep it from backfiring when on the nitrous when shifting. Is use the t kill to cut the nitrous selonoid off when it is shifting. You can use the NO(normally open) side since it will be hot when the kill is activated. Ie, Run NO to a relay, and the other side goes to ground, So when the kill is activated it trips the relay for the same time as the fuel is cut and cuts off the NO2 for the same length of time. You just wire the relay to the Hot or Ground side of the solenoid In Normally closed position and then when it is triggered by the air kill it opens the connection and cuts the relay on cutting the no2 solenoid off.

I can draw up a schematic if anyone needs. Just let me know what components you are running. I like the digikills but it's cheaper to use the t kill. I do this because a lot of customers will buy used kits with the t-kills so I just use them instead of having them buy a digi kill. The digikill it is a lot easier to set the kill time though. Its just a turn of a knob v drilling out the air bleed hole.
 
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