Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
349 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was doing my oil change today and when I went to screw back in the oil drain bolt, it just kept threading in and never stopped turning. I turned it a couple times then take it out and metal shaving from the thread on the inside of the oil drain pan start coming out. What can I do to fix this? Should I buy a longer bolt? Or do I have to buy a whole new oil drain pan thing?

Any advice is appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,378 Posts
Get a new oil pan...or you might be able to have the hole re-threaded but I doubt it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
You've obviously stripped it, so a longer bolt won't help as there aren't any threads left for a bolt to grab. Your cheapest solution is to put a helicoil in it, being careful to get all the aluminum shavings removed before sealing it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
609 Posts
How do people keep doing this? Screw it in with your fingers...
I think a lot of people are afraid of the drain bolt coming out and go all incredible hulk and tighten the sh!t out of it. Best thing for them would be to get a wrench (or ratchet) about 4 inches long to keep themselves under control.

They could always take a lessen from racers and buy a spool of safety wire.

After my son stripped several threads, I asked him WTF he was doing. He had a 1/2 inch torque wrench on a bolt that needed 89 inch pounds. Never mind that the 1/4 inch torque wrench was still in the tool box. Good news is I now have a full assortment of helicoils.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
609 Posts
Might want to try these:

http://www.timesert.com/

I've never used them, but I've heard claims they are better than helicoils.

I'd take the pan off before doing this. Don't see how you could keep the shavings out of there otherwise.

If you have never cut new threads before, I would find someone who has to help. It's not hard but you don't want to be learning on your drain pan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,583 Posts
Might want to try these:

http://www.timesert.com/

I've never used them, but I've heard claims they are better than helicoils.

I'd take the pan off before doing this. Don't see how you could keep the shavings out of there otherwise.

If you have never cut new threads before, I would find someone who has to help. It's not hard but you don't want to be learning on your drain pan.

That looks pretty solid. Good luck with whatever you choose to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,019 Posts
dont feel so bad man next time start it by hand especially bolts like that....ive done stuff very similar...your best bet is probably re-thread it or buy a new oil pan with a new bolt and washer:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
349 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ive only tightened it at manual service recommendation torque. Ill probably just buy a new pan. Anyone know where i can buy a new one at?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
609 Posts
Just checked cheap cycle parts. Guess I'm bored. 05 main drain pan $111. Don't forget new gaskets, bolt etc.

At the risk of being an A55, it took a lot more than the stated torque to strip the threads. I don't see how a bolt with 1.5mm threads could be cross threaded (unless you were trying really hard), so it had to be over torqued.

Could have damaged in the past, and now finally gave.

My point, if you are using a cheapo 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench they are often highly inaccurate in the 10-20 ft/lb range. They can also easily get out of calibration over time making them off even more. Would hate to see you strip out the oil pan bolts putting the new one on.

The cheapo torque wrenches are fine for the DIY, but use the very high or low range settings very cautiously. Best to have a 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch to cover all ranges needed.
 

·
Bloo Moderator
Joined
·
23,742 Posts
just checked cheap cycle parts. Guess i'm bored. 05 main drain pan $111. Don't forget new gaskets, bolt etc.

At the risk of being an a55, it took a lot more than the stated torque to strip the threads. I don't see how a bolt with 1.5mm threads could be cross threaded (unless you were trying really hard), so it had to be over torqued.

Could have damaged in the past, and now finally gave.

My point, if you are using a cheapo 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench they are often highly inaccurate in the 10-20 ft/lb range. They can also easily get out of calibration over time making them off even more. Would hate to see you strip out the oil pan bolts putting the new one on.

The cheapo torque wrenches are fine for the diy, but use the very high or low range settings very cautiously. Best to have a 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch to cover all ranges needed.
:+1::+1::+1:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
349 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the help TN10R. Im never gonna use that torque wrench again.
Im gonna try the time-serts and see how those work. Worst comes to worst, I'll have to buy a new drain pan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,818 Posts
I have never used torque specs for my drain pan. Finger tight, then a little more and I am good to go. Of course I have learned about not going too tight because I have stripped the crap out of a few things through the years. I especially liked when I cross threaded my spark plug in my old project car. DOH! :forehead smack:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
349 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I have never used torque specs for my drain pan. Finger tight, then a little more and I am good to go. Of course I have learned about not going too tight because I have stripped the crap out of a few things through the years. I especially liked when I cross threaded my spark plug in my old project car. DOH! :forehead smack:
Haha yeah that sucks. Well my drain plug bolt does get tighter than hand tight right now but I dont know if i should chance it and see if it will leak
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,818 Posts
Haha yeah that sucks. Well my drain plug bolt does get tighter than hand tight right now but I dont know if i should chance it and see if it will leak
Yeah you don't want a leak that's for sure. Got to get that sweet spot, not too tight, not too loose. I guess the torque wrench will take out the guess work but I never felt it necessary for the pan...I just go by feel.

It kills me when I change the oil on vehicles and whoever did it last thought it needed to be CRAZY tight...same for the oil filter. My mothers car, my GF's car, my father's truck, my GF's mothers van, my GF's brothers car...were all retarded tight. :eyecrazy:

I also had a friend who mistook inch-pounds for foot-pounds. Had to helicoil everything he touched. Ahh, you live and you learn. :badteeth:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,118 Posts
get a new pan. same thing happened to me, dealer put a helicoil in, worked for 2 oil changes. roommate went into the garage and said oil was everywhere! bought a new oil pan, not going to jack with it. and i do safety wire everything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
349 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Yup, i couldnt wait any longer though so i took it off, cleaned all the sahvings on the inside and then lock-tite the bolt. Ive ridden it twice since and its fine. Im gonna buy the new pan before my next oil change to switch
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top