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Discussion Starter #41
Sorry for the lag in updating this shit. I did the entire rear set and my dumb ass thought I could manage it without unscrewing the aluminum anodized screws and still have it work . Well jokes on me. Only the part that had the electrode attached took in the process. The heel gaurds was not affected at all. Here are some pics b4 I restripped the color
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Discussion Starter #42
Had I thought it through I would have realized that the anodized coating is an electrical insulator and so would have known the heel gaurds wouldn't take the process
 

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Discussion Starter #43
So I revisited doing my rearsets. Just the heel gaurds this time. The surface is super smooth and the coating is super solid but the color absorption was a lil irregular which I have been dealing with for the last couple times I have tried to do this. What I'm thinking is that my sulphuric acid solution has gotten polluted with some of the alloys in the base metal or maybe even the copper or something that is interfering with getting a proper even oxide coating with uniform pit sizes. Anyhow. It still looks good but I am gonna have to do it again. Anyhow, I like the green better than the green my pegs came out with so will have to get more sulphuric acid and actually use distilled water this time. Just need to eliminate the variables.
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Fuck me bro …. you obviously live alone lol …. who else could have this sort of time. But hats off to you man, awesome motivation, focus, patience etc etc haha. I hear you about the CNC mill too, I've got a smallish engineering workshop doing mostly structural steel, feature steel work and balustrading for fat cat holiday homes, but also have a machine shop department (ie … a space set aside for the lathe and mill lol) but I'd love to get a CNC set up to play with. Well done bro.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Fuck me bro …. you obviously live alone lol …. who else could have this sort of time. But hats off to you man, awesome motivation, focus, patience etc etc haha. I hear you about the CNC mill too, I've got a smallish engineering workshop doing mostly structural steel, feature steel work and balustrading for fat cat holiday homes, but also have a machine shop department (ie … a space set aside for the lathe and mill lol) but I'd love to get a CNC set up to play with. Well done bro.
Actually, I live with friends. My gf regularly stays with me. Ie at least 80% of the time and yeah I manage. Work is where I have time. I have a felony for evasion and while it shouldn't matter, trying to get meaningful employment in the USA and especially California with a felony on my record makes that tough so I freelance and do what I can to bring in money. Definitely can't do what I used to cause it requires security clearance and I can't get close to that anymore so yeah have some free time for sure. Thanks for the compliments. I just ordered a few more colors of dye from casswell platings along with some chem sealer so I don't have to boil and Leach so much color when dealing the parts. Have 2 different reds, blue and another green, already have 2 different greens right now. Hopefully it all works out
 

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Discussion Starter #46
And following up on that last post. My biggest issue right now if figuring out where the hell to safely store the acid bath and the dye tanks. I bought some smallish Rubbermaid containers for the color. Thinking I need to start putting them all in gallon bottles and then just pouring out when I need them. Use 1 large stainless steel bowl for dye bath cause I can heat it and am actually thinking maybe of using an aluminum pressure cooker pot as my main anodizing tank. Just concerned about if it will corode through or not. It would be nice to have the entire tank be a cathode though. Maybe I should find a cheap spare pot for that and put it inside of a plastic bin
 

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Would hydrofluric acid work with the process ? I'm sure you already know but it's used to clean and de oxidize aluminum, just washes off with water.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Yeah probably not, hydrofluoric acid cleans aluminum by etching it. It removes the oxide surface coating which makes it nice and shiny but when u use it you are supposed to rinse well afterwards. For whatever reason sulphuric doesn't really damage aluminum or titanium or lead. Fucks up every other type of metal in a bad way though.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
And what did we learn today kids.....don't fall asleep while anodizing especially when you are experimenting with high current density process...not cool. I get to lye bath these now, wait till it develops that nasty black coating then get the Dremel out and go to town trying to clean them up mechanically before I move the the tedious and just fucked process of finishing them by hand all so I can start the parts over in the process. Fml
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Discussion Starter #50
Anyhow, the pics show after I already tried using lye to fully strip the splotchy color off of them
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Did my buddies axel blocks for him. They go on his 06 R1, just used rit clothing dye. Not sure why certain parts didn't take color but oh well he is stoked and I feel good about them.
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Discussion Starter #52
Ok so another successful anodizing attempt. Those superbike LIFTERS that I showed all pitted up and nasty looking, yeah I got them done. I did kinda mess up and ran them separate from one another so the color is not the same. Here's how I look at that though, opposite sides of the bike and I don't want to redo them again so for now they are going on.
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Discussion Starter #53
Have a few new pics figured I would post them. Now I kinda want to order some black dye. Idk if I'm going to or if I will just strip the black off the other rear set but anyhow here ya go.
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Discussion Starter #54
I still find it super hard to get the color to come out identical unless it do the parts at the exact same time. I know there are tons of variables to account for but oh well I'm getting the hang of it.
 
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