Yeah but nobody pulled the unit or fuses they were simply blown and the ABS didn't work. :dontknow:Ahh very clever, if it's truly that simple then it's an easy fix.
Though it should have been mentioned earlier in the thread... being the nature of the world these days, that all advice given in this thread, is offered as just that, advice. And anyone undertaking the steps out lined do so at their own risk.
You are altering a (haha) "safety" device on your vehicle. As such you may render your insurance null and void, this could see you paying off someone else's Mercedes Benz for the next 200 years so check with your insurance provider, you may render any and all warranty claims null and void from Kawasaki. You may alter the motorcycle in such a manner that may render it inoperable. Or take the operation of the motorcycle beyond your skills and ability.
As such I take no responsibility for any out come of undertaking the modifications listed in here. I will not help you pay off a Mercedes Benz. (or any other car).
I have the same year model....You don't have any issues over 11,000 rpm and the Abs stays off?.Just FYI on a 2012 model:
I removed all the ABS lines & fittings from the bike, but left the ABS block still plugged into its harness. I then ran aftermarket brake lines direct from the master cylinders to the calipers and with both ABS fuses still installed the ECU doesn't even know the difference. When I start the bike the ABS light comes on just like normal and as soon as I start to roll the ABS light goes off.
Only if you want to make your bike's braking performance worse than it already is...Can I buy a non abs and put abs on it???
^^^ 100% ABS is a liability not a magic bullet to safety.I cannot fathom why anyone would want to. Linked braking systems have never been a good thing and add to that electronics that limit braking forces preventing lockup that is specifically designed to error on the safe side which means less braking instead of more and you get longer stopping distances period.
Nope. The ECU just acts as a messenger and passes on the info to the ABS module where all the calculations are made. So an ABS ECU works in a non-ABS bike and vice versa. Same goes for bikes with the ESD; a bike fitted with a front ESD (13-15) will work fine using an ECU from a bike not fit with one (11-12) and vice versa for the same reasoning.possibly an ECU.
The reason I mentioned the ECU is because the ABS and non-ABS have different part numbers.Nope. The ECU just acts as a messenger and passes on the info to the ABS module where all the calculations are made. So an ABS ECU works in a non-ABS bike and vice versa. Same goes for bikes with the ESD; a bike fitted with a front ESD (13-15) will work fine using an ECU from a bike not fit with one (11-12) and vice versa for the same reasoning.
Yep, they do. But they work just fine interchanged between the models. If you look at the schematic for the bike, all the processing and such is handled off of the ECU and on the KIBS module itself. I've swapped ECUs back and forth on my bikes and let a local friend use my ABS ECU on his non-ABS bike to show the difference between a flashed and not-flashed 10.The reason I mentioned the ECU is because the ABS and non-ABS have different part numbers.
Yeah, never knew/understood that either. All I can think of is that they (ABS/Non-ABS) are considered different models hence the different part numbers. The tunes and such stay the same between the two ECUs. So it's not like on some of the other bikes where a revised tune comes out (mainly in California model bikes) and the part number changes; ABC123-456A1 -> ABC123-456A2 You'd think they would share the same part number since other parts between the two models do... Maybe there is something we're not privy to? :dontknow:That makes sense. I suppose the signals from the wheel sensors for the TC would also apply to the abs. Odd that they have different parts numbers though. Have tried a non abs ecu on a abs?