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looking at trading the 2013 in on a 2014.. but I am being told the white only comes in abs.... can it be removed and how much of a pain?
 

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Yep, done it twice now on both my ZX10R's, and four other owners that race them.

Far and away the best mod you can do to the ZX10R. get rid of the ABS. ZX10R have the worst brakes of any sports bike I have ever ridden, and the extra 3 foot of hydraulic tubing doesn't help.

If you do remove the ABS and run dedicated lines form the master cylinder to the calipers you can remove all the plumbing, the front is relatively easy, you need to take off your tank and airbox and if you want to make you life easier to get to the clips in the frame also the throttle bodies.

To remove the rear is a touch harder as the blocks that convert the rubber lines to metal tubing are mounted between the frame and swing arm. There are two ways to get these out... remove the swing arm so that you can get the Allen key in, or (what I did) a blunt chisel and hammer onto the side of the block, with a few gentle taps the block will rotate taking the screw with it, once it moves you can undo it with your fingers and with a little bit of twisting it comes out.

Once you have all the tubing gone you can put your own braided lines in.

On the ABS module itself the 4 nuts that hold the tubes in place you need to be very firm on them to crack the thread. These are done up stupidly tight, if you just put a 10mm spanner on them and lean on them you will round the nuts and be screwed. Put the spanner on and give it a quick sharp pull and then you'll be good to go.

The ABS module itself will need to remain in place and plugged in. If you remove it the bike will not rev over 11,000rpm. Until someone comes up with a dummy plug for it, you're stuck with it. (not an issue with the race bike as it runs a race ECU) Though if I come up with a solution I'll post it up.

If you decide to go ahead with it I'm more than happy to guide you through.
 

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Just curious, why go from a 2013 to a 2014?
Isn't the only difference color schemes? And the 2014 schemes look the worst of all the Gen 4's years.
 

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Turbo; Thanks for the great writeup on ABS removal. Did you try removing the ABS fuses to disable the unit, and see what it does? It seems strange that the engine will not rev over 11000 due to the ABS being unplugged. Thanks. Mike.
 

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Ahh yes, forgot to mention pulling the fuse. You need to do that too, otherwise it will attempt it's start up diagnostic sequence.

Even with the fuse pulled, the bike will go into a 'safe mode' if you pull out the servo motor (at least it did so with the 2011 bike prior to the race ECU going in).

For the road bike I am toying with the idea of sourcing a harness from a non-ABS model. That will save a great deal of weight.

I need to bury my head into the wiring schematic of both versions of the ZX10R, make note of the differences to see if there is a secondary control module for the ABS that I can remove and be good to roll.

I should also mention that removing/disabling the ABS may affect your insurance policy, so check that too.
 

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Turbo; If you swapped the harness with a non ABS one, wouldn't you also need a non ABS computer? I was also looking at the pinout for the ABS connector, and 2 of the pins said power for the wheel speed sensors. Does that mean if you unplugged the ABS, that the traction control would not work also? We need to figure this out. Mike.
 

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Got a stupid question but why would you want to remove the ABS?
Because there is no decent braking with it the lever pulls itself out of your hand when braking hard then you get the feeling of acceleration as your braking force is reduced, I rode a abs demo bike before buying my non abs model. The demo with abs scared the crap out of me when I chose to stop at a certain place it reduced my braking and made me stop lots later. This might be good in the wet that's it.
 

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Because there is no decent braking with it the lever pulls itself out of your hand when braking hard then you get the feeling of acceleration as your braking force is reduced, I rode a abs demo bike before buying my non abs model. The demo with abs scared the crap out of me when I chose to stop at a certain place it reduced my braking and made me stop lots later. This might be good in the wet that's it.

Im getting a 2013 today and they don't have any non-abs in stock. I will be looking at this system tonight for sure. That is after a nice new night ride.
 

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Turbo; If you swapped the harness with a non ABS one, wouldn't you also need a non ABS computer? I was also looking at the pinout for the ABS connector, and 2 of the pins said power for the wheel speed sensors. Does that mean if you unplugged the ABS, that the traction control would not work also? We need to figure this out. Mike.
It's a weird one as with the race ECU it's all different, I've yet to scour through the road going version's schematic. But if it comes down to needing a non ABS ECU and dash then so be it. Ugh, great fun that will be.


Got a stupid question but why would you want to remove the ABS?
No such thing as a stupid question. ABS (for better or worse) is here to stay and will be released on an ever increasing range of models by all manufactures.

The biggest issue, and especially with Kawasaki which already has woeful brakes to start off with is that firstly the standard master cylinder is not up to the job of really getting the most out of the equally woeful Tokico 2 piece calipers.

But what they have done by putting ABS on the bike is added about 2-3ft of tubing into an already under performing braking package. So before you even need to apply the brakes you're disadvantaged. So now when you squeeze the lever you are trying to pressure up a much larger hydraulic system. Without ABS even being activated you are losing efficiency in the system.

What makes it worse is that they use rubber lines from the master cylinder to a manifold block before it goes to metal tube to the ABS servo. Then back out vie metal tubes, before it goes back to a rubber line and to the calipers, form memory it also has 2 rubber sections on it's way to the servo and back out. The down side with rubber lines is that rather than transferring all the fluid force through them is that they allow them selves to expand under pressure, reducing how much force reaches the caliper and this is true even from brand new lines. This gets progressively worse the older the lines get as they degrade.

When it comes time to flush the system of fluid and replace with new... you have a far greater amount of fluid to flush through and care must be taken to ensure that it is done correctly as the greater the length of tubing and column of fluid the greater the chance that it will have some form of contaminant in it that you may not be aware of.

It all makes for a very inefficient system. Replacing the rubber sections with stainless will see an improvement, but the kits available to do only replace the rubber lines from the caliper to the first manifold so still leave rubber from the master cylinder to the first manifold and also two rubber sections in the run from/to the ABS module.

As for the function of ABS. If you have triggered the ABS... if the servo is spinning and the lever is pulsing and the slip/skid of the wheel is being controlled by the bike, it does not mean you are braking at the limit of the bikes ability and it most certainly does not mean you are braking and slowing down as quickly as the bike is capable of.

It means that you have messed up your braking, your technique for braking is incorrect/you've panicked/not taken into account road conditions.

The best braking performance most can ever hope to achieve is right on that knife edge of where the tyre is about to skid. The truly skillful brakers can have the front wheel rotating slower than the road speed below it, creating what I could best describe a pseudo skid, much like a compression lock up but with the front wheel using your bakes (but that's a whole different subject). This is threshold braking. A key point to threshold braking is getting the weight forward, the forks loaded and the tire loaded and deformed to get a greater contact patch on the road, more contact patch more grip... more grip the more you can get on the brakes.

Now, lets assume you've made a mess of your braking. You're riding along, you haven't been paying attention and there's a car in front of you. You've gone and given that lever a good old heave ho. Your front wheel has a tiny contact patch and the forks are at a neutral position.

In the old days a panic grab of the brakes would see you overwhelm that tiny front wheel contact patch, lock the front, tuck it and end up under the car. With ABS, ok, great it locks briefly, but regains grip, then locks, grips, lock grips... etc. Small instances of front wheel lock, while unnerving won't see you washing the front like previously.

Now here's the thing. For ABS to stop that wheel it needs to release the pressure off the caliper, to do so it needs to drop that pressure far more than what the threshold point would have been (anyone who has locked a front wheel with conventional brakes will know how much they need to release the lever to get it back), at this point the pilot is shitting bricks and is squeezing that lever as hard as he/she can. So now what's going on at the front of the bike? You started with a small tire contact patch, unloaded forks, unloaded tire. You've over whelmed it, locked it. ABS releases the brakes, contact tire patch stays small, forks and tire remain unloaded, you squeeze harder... immediately overwhelming the tire again... repeat. You now are making those little chirps with the front wheel that is so typical when ABS is being activated, your stopping distance is significantly greater. The whole time, not once do you get anywhere near the full capabilities of your bikes stopping power, you are now heading to your doom bolt upright towards a solid object.

You have three options with braking, lock the front and slide down the road or as many like to claim "I laid it down to avoid an accident", rely on ABS and plow into your hazard anyway, or learn to brake properly and not have an accident in the first place. I've seen riders make a mess of their braking, locking a front, and have the presence of mind to release then apply the brakes correctly.

Now going back to your original question, I remove the ABS for the all the reasons above, in addition to being able to put in braided brake lines, reduce the amount of pipe work, fluid, connections and room for faults. At the same time I also take the opportunity to beef up the master cylinder.

ABS on bikes is still in its infancy on bikes, the benefits of it on cars is huge, you can steer around your obstacles while panic braking (though most don't and still hit the hazard).
 

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^Awesome post turbo r1. Now a days company's try to replace once "required" skills for electronic interference which on "paper" might sound good, and for squids sound "great". But in reality just takes away from the overall skill set someone who rides a super sport or any bike for that matter should already have or learn by mistake. Now a days people think they can just pin it out of a corner and let the TC take over is "great" ok, what happen to feeling you're tires and skill. Or grab a fist full of lever coming in stupid hot expecting abs to take over.

I was at my local kawi stealership about a month ago just picking one of the salesman brains on the bikes features just seeing what he had to say on certain subjects. Oh boy, the best thing they can say now is "it comes stock with TC and ABS" my first question after that was is it possible to disable it without flashing the bike...His answer to me was "why would you want to do that, abs is great" In my head I just said oh boy, one of those huh..lol. I explained I've spend years getting a feel for my rubber on the road and having the rear tire dribble of the pavement at a 100mph+ due to my "feel" for the brakes was my cup of tea. After some studdering he said people who track usualy disable it. Hhmmmm I WONDER WHY! lol, maybe they like to actually be in control of their beast of a bike and not grab the lever like a neanderthal hopping for the "electronics" to take reign.

The best was how he threw out there "but what if a car suddenly pulls out in front of you, and you lock the front up, abs wont let you do that" In my head again "oh boy" my reply to him: Dude I grab my breaks till I stop or steer around the car. I'd rather endo 2 feet in the air for 50 feet let it down and swerve like a mad man than have some bs system take over "trying" to "help" me. Let me know when you guys get some used bikes in here's my card lol.

Maybe for someone who's never ridden bicycles or is extremely unskilled when it comes to things on two wheels could benefit from abs. That being said they really shouldn't be riding anyhow. All I'm saying is I'd like to be able to look at new bikes without all this electronic BS interfering with all its so called "benefits", more systems, more variables, higher chance of failure. I wish they would keep it stupid simple. My rant over:2cents::suicide:
 

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Ok I buy into that. All my track bikes and road going bikes I've always change the lines and pads. I have a feeling I will be ordering up Brembo M/C and some new lines. I'll see what happens after that with the calipers. Brought home the bike last night and still have not rode it. We have track day on the 8th so I have a couple days to order up some things.


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TurboR1; That was a great write up. I have already removed the complete ABS system from my bike except for the control unit. What an amazing mess of crap! I really want to remove the control unit to save the weight, and also free up space. My father is an electrical engineer, and is a real genius with wiring. We need to try to figure this out for all the people who want to remove the ABS. My bike is a street bike, not a race bike, so I would not use the race harness. Let me know if you have any ideas, and thanks again for the great posts. Mike.
 

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theres gotta be a slight difference in wiring to let the main ecu to go into limp mode when the abs isn't detected hopefully both non abs and abs engine ECU are the same!
 

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I checked and the part #'s for the ECU's and they are the same for the ABS version, and non ABS version which is what I expected. We just need to figure out how to make it so that the ECU thinks the ABS motor is still connected. Lets figure it out. Mike.
 

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For what it's worth.....I have braided lines and EBC racing pads on my 2011 Gen 4 with ABS....the ABS is only anti skid....if you hit water or sand on the pavement....otherwise, it isn't needed....I remove the fuses on the race track and the brakes work fine...no ABS needed there...for street riding, the brakes with ABS work just fine for me...
 

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Olderguy; When you remove the fuses, does the traction control still work just like normal? The only difference is the ABS does not work? Thanks. Mike.
 
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