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In Memory of SkyDork 11.28.2021
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like the title says, what exactly did you do to achieve your high HP numbers? Anyone with 200+ on a 5th Gen?

What exactly are your mods and in what order would you recommend they be installed in an order of precedence, *without having to add a turbo, nitrous, or head/cam work, like:

Woolich Racing Kit
Full Exhaust vs Slip-on
Carbon Fiber Wheels
Air Filter
Front Sprocket
Rear Sprocket
Lighter battery
An extra pound of air in the tires lol
A few more stickers lol

Is there anything you learned along the way that you would do in a different order that you initially did?

Do the high HP bikes have any common denominators, like Brocks Full Exhaust, Brocks Racing Tune, Moore Mafia Tune, Schnitz Racing Tune, Brocks Predator, Brocks Penta-Carbon Full System, Woolich Racing Kit, BST Wheels, etc. Looking for consistent factors with exception to one's region, environmental, or elevation factors or using race fuel/MR12. Only 91 Octane will be used.

I know this may be asking a lot, but I am sure some of the high HP guys can chime in with what you did.

My 2017 ZX-10RR put down a best of 173.9hp with cat delete, stainless steel intermediate pipe, and the stock exhaust muffler.

Advice, thoughts, and/or suggestions are all welcome.

*Reminder: 91 Octane, no turbo, no nitrous.

Thank you all in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
All, I now have a Woolich Racing Kit installed with Sprint P08-F185 filter and my buddy pushed initial mapping that closely replicated his former setup. I have a Dyno on Saturday with the Wizard and his laptop on standby with access to my Woolich Racing account for adjustments, if necessary. My buddy is estimating a firm 195+ based on his custom mapping. At the moment, he also suggested I do NOT go down to a 16T sprocket up front based on my current level of experience. I trust his judgment and will reserve that "mod" for a later date. Please keep in mind, I am still on stock headers and stock exhaust with cat delete and intermediate pipe. But the addition of the Woolich Racing widband 02 will help him dial in the correct AFR like he did for his own bike. He has Woolich Racking Kit, full Akra system, 16T front sprocket, BMC filter, and his own tune put down a best of 204.9 hp. He really knows how to dial in the map. Stay tuned!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Andrew Lee’s MotoAmerica stock 1000 Zx10r made 207hp on their spec fuel. I would say that’s about the limit considering what they’re allowed to change vs your requirements. The RR might be a hair more with the lighter con rods.

tune is the biggest power gain/$. Good filter, quality full system, the long version. The short under rearset exhausts lose power. Full system is worth ~10hp in the mid range, and a few at peak over a 3/4 system. Those are really your big power adders for the scope of your build. After that would reducing drive train losses. Rear brake delete or at least light weight rear brake rotor, ceramic bearings, light weight/carbon wheels, 520 kit with the lightest sprockets you can find (I’d avoid the superlite brand rear sprockets). If you really wanna get picky I know the roll race guys step down to a 180 size rear tire to reduce weight too. I’m sure there’s other methods of boosting dyno numbers too, picking the o rings out of chains and that sorts deal, but you have to decide what the bikes going to be used for. If you’re roll or drag racing you’re gonna have to do something with the geometry to actually put that power down, and any racing you’ll want to pull weight out of the bike with lighter batteries, etc etc.

also remember that every dyno, and even atmospheric condition will read slightly different numbers. Beyond the scope of your mods but an important note, if you have an RR and are looking specifically for peak power, the race cams are a good option. They’re only $200 for the cams, if you can install them yourself or have someone reasonable do the install properly there’s good gains to be had for the money, but they push the powerband out, and you’ll need to run your rev limit out to 14,600+ to take advantage. IIRC they’re good for 8-10hp peak.

Ps, can you ask your tuner if he’s adjusting ignition timing? And if so what kind of gains is it worth? I’ve heard lots of conflicting things about the gen 5’s.
Wow. A tremendous amount of info. Thank you for all.of what you wrote above, as well to all others who chimed in.

For me, the bike will most likely never see the track and only see 60 mph,2nd Gear pulls in Mexico. Hehe. Rwv limiter was adjusted to 14,200 with my shift light set 1 light bar before tach redline. The furthest I am willing to go with my bike is a full exhaust, 16T front sprocket, and maybe magnesium wheels if thwy are a worthy replacement over stock 10RR Marchesini wheels. But I am still undecided what is best for the street; stock 10RR Marchesini wheels, Magnesium wheels, or Carbon Fiber wheels. I will look into the Kawasaki Race Cams. While I know a good cam in a car will stress the valve train, how bad is it on a bike? I don't want to be changing components every 12 months or 6,000 miles, etc. Basically, are Kawasaki Race Cams worth the HP and headache? I also have my eyes set on the new Brocks Penta-carbon Full System. But there are lengthy delays for his products. Need to crack that whip and crank out more systems. I will ask my buddy if he played with ignition timing and I believe he has. His bike runs strong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Carbon or mag wheels are definitely worth it if you have the money. The 10RR wheels aren’t actually that light, though an improvement over stock. I’ve also heard that they’re mostly better because the weight is more centered, but I haven’t done the math to figure out how significant that difference is.

60 rolls you’ll definitely want at least a brocks strap kit, and probably to lower the bike a little. I’m running 16/39 gearing at the moment. ive tried 16/40, but it’s a very wheelie happy at stock height with the wheelbase fairly far back. I have a track focused bike mind you, so it’s not really as set up for roll racing as it could be. I have a 8mm shim in the back which probably doesn’t help me (the RR comes shimmed 5mm in the rear from the factory fyi). For your “typical” 60-180 roll 16/39 should be a good boost in acceleration while retaining enough top speed, but if your area is mostly 9/10th or something like that you’ll have to gear differently. It’s definitely one of the best and cheapest changes you can make though. Stock gearing is so damn tall. Brocks products are all well developed from what I’ve seen on his YouTube and stuff, I don’t think you’ll have an issue there. Also don’t neglect the quickshifter. Buy race tools and spend the time to get the bike shifting quickly and smoothly. It was worth 3-4 tenths of a second just in a 60-130 pull with 1 shift. Imagine how much time that is over 4 or 5 shifts.

Remember to play to the strengths of the 10R/R too. It’s a top end bike (anyone remember the thread about the guy that was pissed he lost like a 30 roll to a bmw with unknown mods, and how the zx was such a POS bike? LOL). Don’t expect to get the jump on a similarly spec’d s1k or gsx, but the bike has top end to run them down every time. The lower speed you start your roll at, the worse that initial jump on you becomes. I also suggest you buy a dragy. $150, and you can measure your 60-130, 100-150, etc etc to see not only if your mods are actually making a difference, but to make sure you’re consistent and able to take advantage of the mods to the bike.

finally for race cams, I honestly don’t know what a service interval would look like with the cams. I know the biggest deal with stock motor rev limits is the stock valve springs are fairly soft. The cams should be installed with the kit springs which are much stronger. If you do install it maybe just up the service interval for valve adjustment check to 10k miles for the first couple checks to make sure nothings going awry, but I don’t see you blowing through valve springs yearly, or within 6k miles. I know another 18 RR owner that tracks his bike running a 14.6 or 14.7k rev limit on stock springs for 8k miles or so, and he’s yet to have an issue, but he’s slightly more bold than I am lol.

hope this helps!
Forgive my ignorance but, what is a "Strap Kit" (from Brocks), and what purpose does it serve?

Any personal thoughts on the new Penta-carbon full exhaust?

What name brand 16T front sprocket is the industry "standard" selected by most riders?

As for the Woolich Race Tools, I will give them a call on it because my downshifts are much more clumsy/knotchier than before since my buddy checked off the fuel on decel, eliminating the annoying decel pops. Upshifts are still smooth. Downshifts are now horrible. The bike lurches forward.

What wheels are best/safest upgrade to stock, Magnesium or Carbon Fiber? Which one is more tolerant of rough roads or an occasional pothole? My understand is, Carbon Fiber, while lightest and strongest, is also most brittle. Is Magnesium honestly the happy middle?

What "draggy" do you recommend and, I guess Android Apps are not reliable, are they? Even with 17/18 Satellites, the speed is off by 3 mph. I guess that one hidden Satellite on the other side of the world makes a difference. Hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
205 rwhp on low reading dyno.
2017 ZX10RR Kit cams, head gasket, Full Exhaust, WSB air filter, ECU flash.

2019 bike with just a slip on and Flash made 191 on same dyno.
May I ask, what "Full Exhaust" system did you use?

How much power did you achieve with Kit cams?

What does a gasket do? Increase compression?

Who did your Flash?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
All, the numbers are in. Just to confirm my previous setup:

2017 ZX-10RR, Cat Delete, Intermediate Pipe, Stock Exhaust Muffler, Stock Air Filter, 91 Octane: 172.4 hp.

3 October 2020
*Woolich Racing Kit w/Tune (Added)
*Sprint P08-F185 Air Filter (Added)
Cat Delete (No Change)
Intermediate Pipe (No Change)
Stock Exhaust Muffler (No Change)
91 Octane (No Change)

3 October 2020. Approximately 9:10 am first run. 192.8 hp Increase of 20.4 hp over initial setup.

3 October 2020. Approximately 1000 am. Adjusted Fuel Injectors from 40 to 50. From 192.8 hp to 196.8 hp. Increase of 4 hp more from Fuel Injectors alone.

Summary:
172.4 to
192.8 to
196.8 =

Total 24.4 hp GAIN from Woolich Racing Kit with Tune, Sprint P08-F185, and a bump in the Fuel Injectors from 40 to 50.

Next up: Full Exhaust (most likely Brock's Penta-carbon) and a Vortex 16T Sprocket up front. Stay tuned.

Dynograph from 3 October 2020 with previous Dynograph for comparison.
446243
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I was wondering if you would ever chime in!! Haha.

Thank you again to Andre Lawrence for all the hard work, time, effort, and dedication you invested along the way to make my 10RR a better, faster, stronger riding experience.

But we're not done yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
That's a very stout number. Congrats. Like my OP says, "what exactly did you do to achieve your high HP numbers?" For all I know, you could be using jet fuel. Hahaha.

*Reminder: 91 Octane. No turbo. No nitrous.

You gonna share what you did to achieve that 213 number?
 
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