if you've replaced your OEM RK525 chain with an aftermarket RK525 chain that may be part of the problem, secondly 2" of play allows the chain to ride on the outer edges of the sprocket teeth and over time/miles will create 'hooks' on them and eventually break them off.
I have afm rear sprocket and the stock front. 17/42. i love the set up, but the chain gets loose. i do high speed runs on some rides. the ideal of the chain coming off just scare the hell outta me. i did a search and found no real answer.
Every chain will stretch in the first few hundred miles. It should stretch enough that one or two re-adjustments are needed in the first 1000 miles and after that it should be good for a few thousand miles.
Also, never tighten it to where you have less than 1.4" slack (I run mine around 1.6"). If you keep tightening it to less than 1.4" you are causing the stretch, because the chain gets WAY too tight under suspension compression and stretches.
I try to keep my chains in between 1.5" and 1.7" slack.
Also, make sure you are torquing the axle nut to the right specs, and make sure when you tighten everything up the adjustment screws are touching the adjustment sliders. Otherwise under hard acceleration the rear wheel could slide forward and loosen the chain.
As i eluded to in my previous post it could be that particular RK chain. Each brand has a few different levels of quality to choose from and perhaps the one you have is of the inferior kind so i dunno unless you list it.
The ek gold x-ring chain has the highest tensile strength in the 525 catagory. It is what i use and i abuse the shit out of it. The number is lke 12000 tensiles or something. Keep the light weight and keep the stregth but you will pay more about $160
Is the 530 chain you are using an O-ring or X0ring chain? If not, that would explain the constant stretching. Even if it is an O-ring chain, if the tensil strength isn't high enough for the incredible power of your zx-10, you will still stretch the hell outa it. You need at LEAST 9000 tensil strength for a 1000cc bike. I would stick with the 525, because the extra slack in the width of the 530 can't be good. Just do it right and get a high tensil strength 525 O-ring or X-ring. If you try to "make it work," you'll only regret it in the long run.
I have annoying problem with the KQS.
Going up 3rd is near impossible to get other than the first two laps.
It was the same with the stock pegs, is the same with rearsets.
The bike had the recall for the suspect gear and I feel the KQS to 3rd got worse after that, although it did more track work...
I'm starting to build up a new motor for my G1 track bike. I have gathered a clean core motor (28k, almost all highway commuter miles, great compression), G1 kit intake cam, and a few other items. I tore the motor down yesterday to send the head out for a clean/beadblast/mill/port/rebuild and...
Tech question. Bike stalled on me the other day when I was rolling up to a stop sign with the clutch pulled in. Now when I try starting the bike in first with the clutch pulled in the bike moves forward. Like the clutch isn’t disengaging. I have proper 3mm clutch lever free play. Took the cover...
Hi There, I’m in NewZealand and race an Open Wheel Lightning Sprint, have just installed a 2008 zx10r. Had an ECU flash done then onto dyno for tuning, for some reason a sensor is telling it that it needs more fuel than necessary, fuel pressure set at 43psi but far too rich, went as low as 28psi...
If a gen 4 throttle body, wire harness and ECU are installed on a gen 5 engine, will a gen 4 gear position sensor work properly on the gen 5 engine? I've read that a gen 4 gearbox can be installed in a gen 5 engine and then the gen 4 gear position sensor will work. I'm wondering if the gen 4...