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Cross-Eyed Cat
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Discussion Starter #1
I searched, but the information is too vague.

Which is the best power-upgrade to go with and WHY?

Should I just change the front sprocket, or do the front and rear?
If I do change the front, or both, do I have to get my bike re-maped or programed?

What can I expect with just a sprocket change?

Which upgrades require a different chain?

Sorry about the squidly questions, but even the stores that sell these offer no real good info!

Thanks in advance.

Liam
 

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Sprocket/Chain change isn't a power upgrade. You won't see any HP gains.

If you run -1 tooth on your front sprocket and/or add teeth to the rear sprocket your acceleration will increase.

You can go anywhere between -1 in the front and +2 in the rear and still use the stock chain.

No need to remap with a sprocket change.
 

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I have -1/+2 with stock chain (525) and love it. You will loose top end but will increase acceleration. You are just moving the power from top to bottom. No HP gain. But it sure feels like it.
 

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Sprocket/Chain change isn't a power upgrade. You won't see any HP gains.

If you run -1 tooth on your front sprocket and/or add teeth to the rear sprocket your acceleration will increase.

You can go anywhere between -1 in the front and +2 in the rear and still use the stock chain.

No need to remap with a sprocket change.
:+1:

sprockets aren't going to increase power just acceleration.

chances are your probably not twisting the throttle enough, and the sprockets will definitely help that.

if you want you could also look into a throttle adjustment device. there's several out there (most notably, "rifleman's 1/5th throttle insert") which decreases the turning radius of the throttle, so you don't have to twist it as far to get full throttle.

as far as power goes you could start with a full exhaust / power commander / dyno tune, velocity stacks, etc. but i think you were more interested in sprockets :hello:
 

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Cross-Eyed Cat
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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the input! really appreciate it!
 

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Objection !

when you use a smaller chain the resistance will go down a bit, the ratio on this roughly 1,25 % more HP. For example on a good tuned Bike, the difference is noticable ( on the Dyno... not on the street) i "gain" 2,5 PS with conversation to 520 on my ZX10R 08 Racebike (200HP on the Rearwheel). Same story with Ceramic Bearings... But dont get me wrong i can never use or even feel that extra Power
 

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Use a 525 pitch. 520 is a high wear item, and good for racers looking to shave that last lb or so. With a bike making 160hp stock at the wheel, best to go 525 with steel sprockets. You could get an aluminum rear sprocket, but it will wear rapidly compared to a steel unit, which will also accelerate chain/front sprocket wear. And, with a rear wheels assembly that already weighs 32 lbs with wheel/tire/sprocket/bearings, etc, an extra 1lb so close to the center of rotation is negligable.

I've gone -1/+2. At least go -1 up front. You'll notice a difference in that you don't need to slip the clutch as much to get going, and acceleration is noticeable, but not dramatic. A +2 in the rear added to the -1 front will complete the package. I bought my stuff from www.motorcycle-superstore.com If you can get your order up to $75, they ship for free. Over $100 and there's a $5 coupon code good until the end of July. (C409CTLG5) Over $200, and you get $20 off! (C409CTLG20) Great if you want to throw in an Hotbodies MGP Growler exhaust like I did for $249 shipped! Good luck!

Dave

$21 for a 16T (front -1)
$33 or so for a 43T (+2 rear) for the '08

I got the steel for the back. Front is only available in steel. Do it! You won't be disappointed. Oh, and you'll want to order the heal-tech speedohealer from superbike supply. They're a little over $100 shipped, but you'll want one as your speedo will be 20% off with the above gearing change. It takes a little over an hour taking your time to install the 1st time. Oh, and make sure you have access to an impact air gun before taking off the front sprocket. I did it with a 3ft breaker bar. It took forever, and I almost gave up. Then I finally went for it with all my might, and my hand went into the ground skinning all the knuckles bad on my left hand. Ouch.
 

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well, I wouldnt recommend doing -1, +2. Cuz when I did it I was powerwheeling in 3rd with my body weight (220) so it kind of was fun at first but after I got bored because I always had to accelerate kind of "smooth" in order to keep the nose on the ground. My advice do just -1 and it would be enough.
 

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yeah, I only weigh 145, so less weight transfer when I get on it. My old 99Gsxr 750 had Stock frt, +3 in the rear with exhaust and FI remap. Came up in 2nd on power on slight uphill grades. So, yeah. With just the 16t on the ZX, front stayed down ok. kinda bounced on the pavement. I just hate 1st being tall and slipping the clutch. Although I do like being able to use 2nd gear full accel. Decisions. Of course good thing swapping sprockets is a piece of cake.
 

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I really need to get out of the house
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One more thing, you'll probably want to get a speedohealer. The gearing change will throw your speedometer way off. I'd give more info but gotta go.
 

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crickets...chirp chirp

On a bike, it's sooo hard for a lot of people to get motivated to drag race. For one, it's hard to launch a factory wheelbase literbike, especially when geared down. Restrictions on safety gear like leathers prob keep people away as well. Me, I've gone prob 8 or 10 times in my life with my car, but to be honest, I know nothing about 'strapping' a bike or whatever. I can slip the clutch and get a decent launch, but Keeping the front end down would be difficult. And, I'd hate to look like a tool and run a mid 11sec or even high 10 sec on my bike. I'd be disappointed. I liked to take my car after each mod and see what the gains were. But without skills at the strip, or proper setup, it would be impossible to get any insight as to gains from mods.

Kind of like taking a FWD car to the strip. Like say a RSX or something, with no limited slip. You then add a turbo, and go out and run an even worse time or, something with very little improvement due to a tire spinning/poor launch. It's a traction issue. With our bikes, it's a wheelie issue.
 

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Servo's Eliminatus ;)
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crickets...chirp chirp

On a bike, it's sooo hard for a lot of people to get motivated to drag race. For one, it's hard to launch a factory wheelbase literbike, especially when geared down. Restrictions on safety gear like leathers prob keep people away as well. Me, I've gone prob 8 or 10 times in my life with my car, but to be honest, I know nothing about 'strapping' a bike or whatever. I can slip the clutch and get a decent launch, but Keeping the front end down would be difficult. And, I'd hate to look like a tool and run a mid 11sec or even high 10 sec on my bike. I'd be disappointed. I liked to take my car after each mod and see what the gains were. But without skills at the strip, or proper setup, it would be impossible to get any insight as to gains from mods.

Kind of like taking a FWD car to the strip. Like say a RSX or something, with no limited slip. You then add a turbo, and go out and run an even worse time or, something with very little improvement due to a tire spinning/poor launch. It's a traction issue. With our bikes, it's a wheelie issue.


I'll second that. Ive taken my bike to the 1/8th mile drag strip and the launch

is a pain in the ass. Trying to keep the front down is just plain work. And to

boot, when you go -1 up front, it just makes it that much worse.

You have to stretch the back end and strap the front end for a good launch

& run. But then you lose handling on the twisties.

So you just have to choose what style of riding you want to do.

Either a drag racer or seeking curvy roads with some top end blast.

Keep in mind how much stress drag racing puts on your bike tho.

you will tear stuff up alot quicker.
 

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Where'd the boobs go?
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when you gear, get the new v4 speedohealer, top speed recall function is fukin sweet too! Superbike Supply baby!!!
 
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