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Discussion Starter #1
So I hear dropping a tooth out front is a good thing for faster acceleration? The stock 4th gen is a 17 tooth front sprocket? So I need a 16? What vendor should I order a good piece from? Also what effect does this have to the top end??? Thanks for the Help Boys
 

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So I hear dropping a tooth out front is a good thing for faster acceleration? The stock 4th gen is a 17 tooth front sprocket? So I need a 16? What vendor should I order a good piece from? Also what effect does this have to the top end??? Thanks for the Help Boys
Go 16 Renthal .:eek:ccasion1
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I think I know what it dows to the bike but care to explain how it rides with a 16? low end ? top end ? top speed?
 

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With a 16t my gen4 pulled 176mph on the dyno, but my rev limiter has also been raised 500rpm.

I've recently installed a 41t on the rear as well and the bike feels perfect now.

The 16t counter sprocket will make it much easer to pull away from a stop without having to slip the clutch, but other than that it didn't feel like a "huge" difference to me. Combined with the 41t rear you definitely feel the difference. It just pulls harder and gets up to speed much quicker.
 

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Changing the gearing won't affect the actual horsepower output of the engine. It will change the ratio that the rear wheel will spin in relation to the crankshaft rotation.. Ie. If you go down one gear in front and up two in the rear you will get much quicker acceleration from a dead stop because you will get the RPM of the engine up quicker (and in the more powerful torque range of the engine sooner). You will probably give up about 5 to 6 mph on the top end but who cares? So what if it tips out at 185 vs 190mph..? Unless you are trying to obtain a top speed record like at the Texas Mile or Bonneville etc. For the most part. Acceleration out of a turn is what it is all about on the racetrack...Also, On the street. It is nice not to have to slip the clutch or over rev the motor to leave the light quickly...
I run -1 on front and plus 2 in the rear. (16/41)
BTW. Going down one tooth on the front sprocket is equivalent of about 2 and 1/2 teeth in the rear...it will give better low end pull but the new ZX10 has such a high first gear you will really like the 41 in the rear..... Try it. :thumbsup:

Speedy
 

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so you need both???? just the front is pointless? you did 176 with just the front?
Just the front isn't "pointless" but a good starting point in my book. Its the cheapest to swap. If you are doing it yourself makes sure you've got a set of large metric impact sockets and a pneumatic impact gun.

Previous gen bikes came with a 41t rear stock and all sprockets will fit all gens. I was able to pick up a very low mile 41t for cheap that someone removed to do a 520 kit at only 500 miles or so.
 

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so if I go -1 and +2 will the bike need a speedo healer? im taking? and would I need or should consider a new chain? bike has stock gearing with closing in on 3900 miles
 

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Changing the gearing won't affect the actual horsepower output of the engine. It will change the ratio that the rear wheel will spin in relation to the crankshaft rotation.. Ie. If you go down one gear in front and up two in the rear you will get much quicker acceleration from a dead stop because you will get the RPM of the engine up quicker (and in the more powerful torque range of the engine sooner). You will probably give up about 5 to 6 mph on the top end but who cares? So what if it tips out at 185 vs 190mph..? Unless you are trying to obtain a top speed record like at the Texas Mile or Bonneville etc. For the most part. Acceleration out of a turn is what it is all about on the racetrack...Also, On the street. It is nice not to have to slip the clutch or over rev the motor to leave the light quickly...
I run -1 on front and plus 2 in the rear. (16/41)
BTW. Going down one tooth on the front sprocket is equivalent of about 2 and 1/2 teeth in the rear...it will give better low end pull but the new ZX10 has such a high first gear you will really like the 41 in the rear..... Try it. :thumbsup:

Speedy
i will be ordering the sprockets and doing the conversion at the same time I put on my new rubber trying out the bts20, anywho will I need a speedo healer on the gen 4 with the conversion? and should i keeo stock chain? has 3900 miles and chain looks good.
 

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got my 16t renthal from mike @ riders discount. PM him and he will hook you up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok so we agree that dropping a tooth up front is A Good Starting Point correct? Also how about an entire conversion kit...The Driven 520 kit is what Im speaking off.... Light weight material equals less weight and friction all around?......
 

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3900 miles, I'd just slap the sprockets on there. I don't think I'd do a 520 conversion on a 180hp street ridden bike. If its just a track bike, then every bit helps. I mean, if your chain is worn out, then sure, a 520 kit would probably be ok since they have some pretty strong 520 stuff out now, but I doubt you'd feel the difference on the street. Stock chain should be good for at least 10-15k miles I'd think, as long as you maintain it.
 

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3900 miles, I'd just slap the sprockets on there. I don't think I'd do a 520 conversion on a 180hp street ridden bike. If its just a track bike, then every bit helps. I mean, if your chain is worn out, then sure, a 520 kit would probably be ok since they have some pretty strong 520 stuff out now, but I doubt you'd feel the difference on the street. Stock chain should be good for at least 10-15k miles I'd think, as long as you maintain it.
Thanks:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I need a tooth down on this 2011 zx10.. So Im buying a Driven Front Sprocket for the 525 Stock Pitch Chain with 16 teeth. AM I CORRECT? Please let me know.... thanks much
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok teedub so answer me this and know that I have riding sport for 12 years....... Needless to say i have only 350 miles in this 10, Im finding it quite twitchy and headshake up front and Im not comfortable what so ever with her yet. SO im wondering if a 16 is a good idea at the first service around 500 miles or am I asking for trouble? Just looking for feedback yet again. Im also wondering if i should be lowering the tire pressure at this point and or tightening up the ohilins dampener......
 

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go the 16 tighten the damper to max there shit anyway.
get your suspension set to your weight, ( that's important) and setting the clickers for how you ride helps a lot. twitchy front a little but there lite as up front. the rer shock may have the wrong settings for your riding. the may need a little less on the clickers to allow squat . or a little more than how it is. with ba bit of squat under power it changes the rake and trail to a bit longer making it a tad more stable.on the gas. a visit to any Dave Moss seminar or race track he is attending will get you bike humin. had him do mine when he was here in Aussie last year. best money spent. factory setting work for me on the track and backed off to ride the road.
 

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I've just a 520 DID chain with Renthal sprockets. There is very minimal rolling resistance. I was -1+1 on stock gear, with the 520 I went plus 0+3 but it was a bit doughy so now I've gone -1+2. Haven't tried it yet
 
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