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I am about to hit 8K miles and I haven't done my plugs yet (7.5k per service maint. schedule). Has anyone done this yet? I searched and came up with a lot of hits for 1st and 2nd gen. If someone has been there and done that, any special plug socket required. Any recommendations on plugs or stock good enough? Someone told me I shouldn't worry about changing them until after 15K miles (any thoughts on that).
I run 91-93 pump gas and don't race drag or track on a regular basis.
:dontknow:
 

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Speed Freak
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I wouldnt worry about them til the 16k limit with these Iridium plugs they last quit a bit longer then regular plugs for sure.
 

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Dang I have never owned a bike long enough to change the plugs. I have 13k on mine and it runs fine. I have a lot of track time on my bike too so maybe a change should be done.
 

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i have 15,500+ miles on mine and havent changed the plugs yet!!! I say wait...im gonna do everything at once...valves and so on :)
 

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T Double D
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i changed mine out to colder plugs and wanted to switch to brisk plugs
 

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Speed Freak
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you chhould always run CR9EK's which have dual electrodes which is suppsed to help bump the compression SLIGHLY if any at all. I know all the guys on the zukes ran those plugs a while back on the 750's and such to squeeze every lil bit of power outta them. I ran them on my built motor and I'm going to put them in this motor probably this weekend. Bike ran great with them.
 

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I did mine about 3 weeks ago. Put some ngk cr9eix plugs in from superbike supply. Wasnt very fun :headshake
 

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T Double D
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brisk trust me always use brisk everything else is nothing these make more power on the dyno( proven by me) nothing with a electrode that is off of the plug makes more power there worth there price to me but they are very pricy for plugs
http://www.oppracing.com/products/265-brisk-sparkplugs/
 

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Speed Freak
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they cost just about the same as OEM iridiums dont they? They are very good plugs, I ran a set of NGK RQ0005's or something like that that were just like brisks.... they were 90 bucks a pop! but I did a back to back run on the dyno and gained 2hp from about 9k up and 1hp everywhere else.
 

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T Double D
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i got way more hp than that must be a bike vs bike thing dont know why your bike responded so poorly to them,
my bike responded much much better than 1hp with them compaired to brand new never before used stock plugs ( garbage ) the brisk are the way to go.
 

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when my 08 10 blew up at 16572 miles the factory said it was because i did not change the plugs at 8000 miles and fought with me to cover the motor thats my story now i change plugs every 8000 miles no matter what
 

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when my 08 10 blew up at 16572 miles the factory said it was because i did not change the plugs at 8000 miles and fought with me to cover the motor thats my story now i change plugs every 8000 miles no matter what
Interesting. What does the manual say?
All of the Gixxers I owned needed replacement every 7,500 miles, per manual.
 

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when my 08 10 blew up at 16572 miles the factory said it was because i did not change the plugs at 8000 miles and fought with me to cover the motor thats my story now i change plugs every 8000 miles no matter what
what??? are you serious? how can not changing the spark plugs make your bike blow up?
 

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T Double D
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i change mine at 7500 miles
 

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the factory said because i did not change the plugs at 8000 miles they had extra wear on them and that is why the elctro broke off and gouged my cylinder and piston i think they were trying to find a way not to cover the motor but they ended up replacing alot of parts including the cases so worked out for me now i got 8000 miles on new motor and ready for plug change doing before i ride again along with oil change which i change every 1500-2000 miles anyway
 

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Did mine a few weeks ago. The bitch is getting the front fairing off without breaking plastic. Specifically the plastic under your gauge cluster that sits between the gauge cluster and your windscreen. Recommend you "push" the rubber grommet looking things down towards the gauge cluster.

Pull the windscreen, then the gauge cluster, then the front and side fairings. You don't have to remove gas tank, per se. It's easier to get the airbox out, but you can get away with propping the rank up after you pull the steering stabilizer off. The spark plug tool that came in your toolbag is absolutely the best way to get the plugs out. In case you don't know why you got to pull the front off, the only way to get two outside coils out is by pulling them out towards the front of the bike. So the two brackets on either side of the engine have to come off as well. Oh and the airbox has screws all around the edge and 1 in the center.

Hope this helps when you get around to it. Yes, it's a bitch, but why wait and possibly risk your motor? I'm almost positive that's a definite major bitch to fix. :)
 
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