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Discussion Starter #1
Here's my 30,000 mile oil analysis:

Yes, I should have changed it sooner...but figured factory recommends 5,000 miles - then 1,000 miles over 3,000 miles shouldn't be that bad...WRONG...the broken bones in my hands just caused me to put it off...

There has been a LOT of discussion on this forum on oil fiters. I have been using K & N, (easy to put on and take off with the nut on the end) but after some posting took a look at the Purolater Pure ONE and just looking at the two together, the PURE ONE is obviously a better filter than the K & N. This oil change got the K & N, but after 2,500 miles - I am using the PURE ONE...

I know, my bad...

30K oil report
 

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I'd like to see a test of oil in this bike at 1K miles and 2k miles to compare the rate of breakdown.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
speedfreak said:
I'd like to see a test of oil in this bike at 1K miles and 2k miles to compare the rate of breakdown.
it isn't really breakdown...it is the pecentages of the materials...and the percentage hasn't changed...
 

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This is the kind of information that I like. You ought to post that up on Bob is the Oil Guy in the Used Oil Analysis (UOA) section. There is very little on motorcycles. These guys will go through the analysis and maybe give you more information and maybe even some suggestions.

I am currently running Mobil 1 15w50 and PurOne PL14610 filter and a 3,000 mile change interval. I plan on going to the Mobil 1 5w40 SUV stuff at the next change because the transmission shifts clunky until it is warmed up.
 

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:+1: for the pure one oil filter, the bike gets it, the ROUSH, and the Acura. all run Amsoil full synthetic also!
 

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Steve, I'm looking at the test sheet now. It says the oil was Castrol 5w40. Was that the Castrol motorcycle-specific stuff? There is a Castrol Syntec of that viscosity, but as far as I've seen, it's only sold at VW dealers (it's a special blend for VW diesel engines).

Viscosity is down a little, but it's not bad. Fuel dilution is good. No antifreeze is also good.

Lead, tin, copper, and zinc are found in Babbitt plain-bearing metal (crank and rod journals) and the bronze bushings in the transmission. Zinc isn't useful for analysis, though, because it's an ingredient in the oil additives itself. Lead, tin, and copper are all low - good sign, means low bottom-end wear. By the way, the lead number is not useful for an engine that has been driven on leaded gasoline.

Chromium, molybdenum, manganese, and iron are ingredients of alloy steel - crankshaft, transmission gears, camshaft, cam followers, stuff like that. Iron is found elsewhere, so it's not useful. The others are all extremely low - again, low bottom-end wear, a good sign.

Aluminum can come from pistons or from the camshaft journals, since the camshaft runs directly in aluminum on this engine (as with most other bike engines). The iron that's left is likely piston rings, but it's pretty low.

Silicon comes from sand. Low level means your air filter is working OK.

Calcium, phosphorus, zinc, are oil additive ingredients, part of the oil itself. OK.

The somewhat high aluminum is the only concern I'd have with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
GoFaster said:
Steve, I'm looking at the test sheet now. It says the oil was Castrol 5w40. Was that the Castrol motorcycle-specific stuff? There is a Castrol Syntec of that viscosity, but as far as I've seen, it's only sold at VW dealers (it's a special blend for VW diesel engines).

Viscosity is down a little, but it's not bad. Fuel dilution is good. No antifreeze is also good.

Lead, tin, copper, and zinc are found in Babbitt plain-bearing metal (crank and rod journals) and the bronze bushings in the transmission. Zinc isn't useful for analysis, though, because it's an ingredient in the oil additives itself. Lead, tin, and copper are all low - good sign, means low bottom-end wear. By the way, the lead number is not useful for an engine that has been driven on leaded gasoline.

Chromium, molybdenum, manganese, and iron are ingredients of alloy steel - crankshaft, transmission gears, camshaft, cam followers, stuff like that. Iron is found elsewhere, so it's not useful. The others are all extremely low - again, low bottom-end wear, a good sign.

Aluminum can come from pistons or from the camshaft journals, since the camshaft runs directly in aluminum on this engine (as with most other bike engines). The iron that's left is likely piston rings, but it's pretty low.

Silicon comes from sand. Low level means your air filter is working OK.

Calcium, phosphorus, zinc, are oil additive ingredients, part of the oil itself. OK.

The somewhat high aluminum is the only concern I'd have with it.
Castrol R-4 Superbike Oil (Full Synthetic)...5-40W

The aluminum, according to the lab, is unique and typical to Kawi's..and not to worry about it as it seems consistent...only be alarmed if the percentages make a significant jump down the road...
 

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I don't know where the lab is getting that from. Aluminum pistons, and camshafts that run directly in the aluminum caps, are found on practically *every* motorcycle engine! It's not just Kawasaki. I've never seen a bike engine that had proper bearing inserts for the camshaft journals. Even many OHC car engines with aluminum heads are like that.

And aluminum pistons are universal throughout the automotive industry. My VW diesel has aluminum pistons!

Maybe Blackstone is too accustomed to doing heavy truck engines.

Anyhow, it is what it is. No major concerns.
 
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