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Discussion Starter #1
2MM guy's how long did your 2MM last, what's some things to look out for doing a 2mm, if your bike is still going strong how many mile do you have on it?
stock rods, stock crank
 

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I have about 7k miles or so on my 3mm and it runs like a champ. Knock on wood of course.... I didn't deck the head. I put a thinner head gasket to slightly raise the compression but nothing drastic.

Didn't you bore yours? If so what's going on??
 

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I'm also interested in the 2-3mm's as far as reliability. Also if anyone has any input on stroked cranks
 

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Personally I believe the 2 mil is a better choice for durability without loosing anything to the very slightly larger 3 mil bore. The 2 mil will have a little better cylinder rigidity preventing distortion caused loss of compression. The 2mil will also have a bit lighter piston reducing mechanical inertia losses, probably will run a little cooler too. Stroker crank street motors seem to wear themselves out quicker than their stock stroke counterparts. The different rod attack angle of the more outboard rod throws side loads the pistons a bit more, maybe not a big issue for a bike thats ridden a 1/4 mile at a time but for a street bike it could in theory mean shorter engine life. The crank pins, on a stroker are welded and re-ground to achieve the offset that gives you the longer stroke. Some of these re-weld, re-ground pins have been known to flake metal and cause trouble. A stroker motor also has to have piston clearences checked at bdc as the piston is pulled further down in the cylinder and could cause the piston skirt to hit the crank throws. If I remember correctly the head might have to be shimmed to avoid contact with the piston crown due to its higher tdc travel. You could build a nice cammed 2mil over motor that would give you great bang for your buck or go hog wild with big everything complete with "sick" power but you might have to freshen the top and bottom on a regular basis. Just my 2 cents
 

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Personally I believe the 2 mil is a better choice for durability without loosing anything to the very slightly larger 3 mil bore. The 2 mil will have a little better cylinder rigidity preventing distortion caused loss of compression. The 2mil will also have a bit lighter piston reducing mechanical inertia losses, probably will run a little cooler too. Stroker crank street motors seem to wear themselves out quicker than their stock stroke counterparts. The different rod attack angle of the more outboard rod throws side loads the pistons a bit more, maybe not a big issue for a bike thats ridden a 1/4 mile at a time but for a street bike it could in theory mean shorter engine life. The crank pins, on a stroker are welded and re-ground to achieve the offset that gives you the longer stroke. Some of these re-weld, re-ground pins have been known to flake metal and cause trouble. A stroker motor also has to have piston clearences checked at bdc as the piston is pulled further down in the cylinder and could cause the piston skirt to hit the crank throws. If I remember correctly the head might have to be shimmed to avoid contact with the piston crown due to its higher tdc travel. You could build a nice cammed 2mil over motor that would give you great bang for your buck or go hog wild with big everything complete with "sick" power but you might have to freshen the top and bottom on a regular basis. Just my 2 cents
:+1: couldn't have said it better myself
 

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A properly mapped, cammed, 2 mil over 10r motor would probably make 175rwhp. Add 36 hp nos and you got what....211? and the need of a longer swingarm :dontknow:
 

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All show and all go 10r
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A properly mapped, cammed, 2 mil over 10r motor would probably make 175rwhp. Add 36 hp nos and you got what....211? and the need of a longer swingarm :dontknow:
Is that a gen1 only? I see dyno sheets of the gen3 with full systems between 170-175rwhp or are these bullshit. I'd like to know as I'm waiting on my ti akra.
 

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it's all relative man. Try to get your bike on a dyno before and then after. The difference will be what you're looking for. Think about how many variables come into tuning each specific bike. These all impact the number that come out of the dyno. Then add in the variables for the dyno. My best friend owns and operates a dyno. Give me a little time with your bike and I can show you a dyno sheet of your bike making 200hp.
 

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^^^I had mine tuned last month or so...at work or I would load my sheet. base walking in the door with a pc/secondaries/filter/stacks/full exhaust was 165. something...Left at 169. something...Gained like 7hp in one part of my power band...Felt great...:mrgreen:
 

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All show and all go 10r
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I'm giving the autotune a try. I know some people say no but I can go through a huge elevation change in a ride.
 

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I own a 3rd gen and I just ordered 2mm longer rods with pistons to boot. My main goal is to boost the midrange as much as possible. I've also sent my "extra" swing arm to Fab-Tech to have it modded to give me an extra 45mm of adjustability. I've also purchased brembo brakes, calipers and I'm saving up for some BST carbon rims. I'm also looking to have my front forks rebuilt with Ohlins guts... (can't afford the complete package yet). I'm also looking for a good cam grind and my target HP is a minimum of 190rwhp. I do have my own Dyno and will be taking my time tuning my bike myself. I'm running the Kawi Race ECU and will be spending lots of time mastering that system. I will post pics and the dyno results just before I leave for WSB at Miller MSP min May.
 

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In my 2mm project i'm going with JE pistons and a shaved/modified head. I has some race springs, kawi race intake and i'm also considering the Ti retainers just to have peace of mind.

On the lower end you should need at least a billet clutch basket, a drag pack and some heavier springs. I think it's better to leave crank, tranny and rods stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have about 7k miles or so on my 3mm and it runs like a champ. Knock on wood of course.... I didn't deck the head. I put a thinner head gasket to slightly raise the compression but nothing drastic.

Didn't you bore yours? If so what's going on??
Thanks man i just orderer 2mm pistons im not going the boring i just want this thing to last.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Personally I believe the 2 mil is a better choice for durability without loosing anything to the very slightly larger 3 mil bore. The 2 mil will have a little better cylinder rigidity preventing distortion caused loss of compression. The 2mil will also have a bit lighter piston reducing mechanical inertia losses, probably will run a little cooler too. Stroker crank street motors seem to wear themselves out quicker than their stock stroke counterparts. The different rod attack angle of the more outboard rod throws side loads the pistons a bit more, maybe not a big issue for a bike thats ridden a 1/4 mile at a time but for a street bike it could in theory mean shorter engine life. The crank pins, on a stroker are welded and re-ground to achieve the offset that gives you the longer stroke. Some of these re-weld, re-ground pins have been known to flake metal and cause trouble. A stroker motor also has to have piston clearences checked at bdc as the piston is pulled further down in the cylinder and could cause the piston skirt to hit the crank throws. If I remember correctly the head might have to be shimmed to avoid contact with the piston crown due to its higher tdc travel. You could build a nice cammed 2mil over motor that would give you great bang for your buck or go hog wild with big everything complete with "sick" power but you might have to freshen the top and bottom on a regular basis. Just my 2 cents
Thanks alot :thumbsup:
 

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I own a 3rd gen and I just ordered 2mm longer rods with pistons to boot. My main goal is to boost the midrange as much as possible. I've also sent my "extra" swing arm to Fab-Tech to have it modded to give me an extra 45mm of adjustability. I've also purchased brembo brakes, calipers and I'm saving up for some BST carbon rims. I'm also looking to have my front forks rebuilt with Ohlins guts... (can't afford the complete package yet). I'm also looking for a good cam grind and my target HP is a minimum of 190rwhp. I do have my own Dyno and will be taking my time tuning my bike myself. I'm running the Kawi Race ECU and will be spending lots of time mastering that system. I will post pics and the dyno results just before I leave for WSB at Miller MSP min May.
Would you tell me what 2mm+ connecting rods do?
 

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Would it be safe to assume that the stock crank on my 3rd gen is more than adequate for the following combination. 2mm JEs, Carrillo rods, billet basket, shaved/ported head, cams, stronger springs w/ ti retainers, and a possibly raised rev limit?
 

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If the crank is presently in good condition, it should hold up with your mods provided you don't pound it to death with too much compression. With the 2mil pistons you should get a good bump in compression without shaving the head. I'd like to ask why you feel the need for new rods? Try the new engine package before raising the rev limit to see if you actually need more revs.
 

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Would you tell me what 2mm+ connecting rods do?
I'm looking to get as much Tq out of the engine without boring out the cylinders. Also running shorter pistons, 14,200 rev limit, ordering stronger springs and retainers, +2 rear sprocket, stock count up front. I'm looking to build a bike that doesn't have a top end rush, because I want that "rush" to begin at around 4k to redline. Pretty much the same engine set up as Simon Andrews' ZX10R superbike.
 

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If the crank is presently in good condition, it should hold up with your mods provided you don't pound it to death with too much compression. With the 2mil pistons you should get a good bump in compression without shaving the head. I'd like to ask why you feel the need for new rods? Try the new engine package before raising the rev limit to see if you actually need more revs.
I have just started researching going to a BB (possible project for next winter). I figure going to a stronger rod (assume also lighter?) would be more of an insurance policy than anything, especially since im considering the added RPMs. Another question I have is say I were to build for a 14000rpm max, is it possible to get the cam timing to continue to make power up to redline with out a significant loss down low? I assume the 2mm would help to offset any loss due to the timing.
 
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