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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey fellas new here had some questions on the 6 Gen. removed all the emissions got the block off plates and resistor from brocks. put the bike all back together now I have a power code. check all the plugs again bike run starts drives. Dash is all crazy any ideas??
 

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'16 ZX-10R KRT
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Greetings!

There isn't a lot of info available for the Gen 6 yet, so the response on this will be limited. With that said, I'll try to help you.

You have a "power code"? What the hell is that??? There's no such thing as a power code. You are seeing the service code warning indicator. It's not called a power code because it's saying that the engine power is affected by the FI service code that it sees triggered. Since you have a service code triggered, what code(s) is it? Have you read the service codes?

On the earlier models, whenever that has happened means you ECU isn't talking to the instrument cluster because the CANbus communication line isn't connected. Most likely you screwed up something in the installation of all the stuff you did by unplugging something you shouldn't have, not plugging everything back in properly, or bent some pins while plugging it back in. You need to see what service code it's showing before you jump back into it and double check everything you did already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@SkyDork waiting for a pig tail adapter so I can read the code and start there. thanks for the reply. going to check all connections again.
 

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@SkyDork waiting for a pig tail adapter so I can read the code and start there. thanks for the reply. going to check all connections again.
You don't need a pigtail to read any codes. That's for resetting the codes. You should be able to read them through the instrument cluster or through the Rideology app when paired.
 

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hi sometimes the eliminator resistor thingys that are sold dont do the trick, replug in all your smog connectors and leave it. i just did that to my bike, i kept the pair valve connected, the evap cann connected and i purchased a heal tech for the exhaust valve, i had experience with some of these after market eliminators not doing the trick, i have a 2021 zx10rr

also you need to pull the KDS trouble code, hold the top mode and reset button at the same time
 

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hi sometimes the eliminator resistor thingys that are sold dont do the trick, replug in all your smog connectors and leave it. i just did that to my bike, i kept the pair valve connected, the evap cann connected and i purchased a heal tech for the exhaust valve, i had experience with some of these after market eliminators not doing the trick, i have a 2021 zx10rr

also you need to pull the KDS trouble code, hold the top mode and reset button at the same time
There is the new info that was lacking! I would've expected the service code to be read very much like the older Gen 4/5 codes using the SEL and lap keys in the right mode, but wasn't 100% sure on that. Thanks!
 
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i purchased the new service manual
Yeah, I've been waiting for someone to get their hands on the softcopy of that so the thread here could be updated with all of the Gens. ;)(y):geek: Haven't seen that around yet.
 
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@peterj59 @SkyDork hahaha I stand corrected, rest battery and tried it again worked. my two codes are ..3A..2D...
I can't confirm those codes on the Gen 6, but they should track the same way as the older ones do since the codes should be consistent.
3A = Purge valve
2D = Air Intake Solenoid Valve
 

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@SkyDork guess that resistor for the pair valve pug is crap
Completely different than the air intake solenoid and the Purge valve. Not even on the same circuit. Three separate things and the service code for the KLEEN valve isn't showing up in your list. FYI - PAIR valve is a Suzuki trademark term. The secondary air injection system is called KLEEN on your fancy new Kawasaki. Get with the program! :ROFLMAO:
 
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purge valve is for the evap cannister fumes crap, just reconnect it and leave alone you can remove the hoses to and from it.

the air intake connector is for the flapper in the snorkel, once again if the resistors thing is not working just reconnect the air intake solenoid and remove all the lines, dont forget to plug the vacuum ports located in the throttle body, for both you can pull up the parts image on any website parts merchant
 

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purge valve is for the evap cannister fumes crap, just reconnect it and leave alone you can remove the hoses to and from it.

the air intake connector is for the flapper in the snorkel, once again if the resistors thing is not working just reconnect the air intake solenoid and remove all the lines, dont forget to plug the vacuum ports located in the throttle body, for both you can pull up the parts image on any website parts merchant
^^^ Pretty much what he said.

@sleonard said he "removed all the emissions stuff" but never gave the full details on specifically what that entailed. If all that stuff was removed and only a single bypass adapter for one of the systems was plugged in thinking it would take care of it all, then that's the problem. That's why those codes are now showing and you've got all those lights. There are lots of ways to remove the emission equipment, but that doesn't mean you can just unplug the sensors without issues. The service codes are showing the sensors that were disconnected and they have nothing to do with the KLEEN (PAIR) valve adapter that is plugged in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
@SkyDork @peterj59 🤣🤣🤣 gotcha thanks guys I've been riding dirt for years. Decided to pick up the street sense in my 30's lol.I'm new to the whole 4 cylinder. so list of what I deleted and unplugged. block off plates and resistor. flapper in the intake. evap can. yes I did cap all hoese from throttle body. so those two little solenoid valves need to be plugged back in right ?
 

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I have gen 6 and did the same. I used the following:

I had no codes.


I used a 20w 6.8 load resistor I had kicking around and that worked great on the pair valve.

For the evap system I used a 470 ohm 0.5 W resistor and taper it across the connector and that’s worked too.
 

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The evap valve is on the right in the front end iirc, there’s loads of info online about removing the evap system. It’s an old system. The important thing is the resistor to trick the ecu.
 
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