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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I am thinking about getting a de-cat exhaust (probably going with RaceFit), a K&N air filter and an ECU flash. My dealer told me that if I do these things I'll lose the warranty. I am searching online for warranty information for Kawasaki Motors EU but can't find any specifics.

Q1: Does anyone know where I can find the whole warranty agreement from Kawasaki EU? ie. all the can and can't do while the bike is in its warranty period.

Q2: Do you guys think it's worth leaving the bike stock until 2022 to keep the warranty? Or modify the bike with the above changes and who cares? Never owned a brand new bike before so I don't know what the best course of action is. The chances that it'll have a mechanical issue in the first 2 years are pretty low, but still I worry.. but on the other hand I hate all the emissions stuff that are slowing the bike down eg. 2 catalytic converters, huge muffler, the dyno graph flatlines after 12-13k rpm to reduce power and emissions etc....
 

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The warranty is 12 months unlimited mileage. There's nothing in the warranty that will tell you what you can and can't do to it. So you can pull out the documentation that you got with the bike and read it verbatim, but you still won't find what you're looking for. Basically, if you have a warranty claim on the bike and they can show that your modifications affected the bike or contributed to the problem they can deny your claim. That catalytic converter and big muffler aren't restricting the bike much, they just weight a ton and quiet it down to meet the noise restrictions. Slapping a slip-on on it and getting rid of the cat won't gain you much power at all. You'd have to retune the bike through a reflash to see any gains out of that and they will be minor. If you reflash your ECU and blow up your motor, Kawi will want to know what happened to it and investigate a little bit more. If they can show that you reflashed it and leaned out the fuel and advanced the timing to aggressively and you blew it up that way, then that's on you. Or if you raced it. The chances of that happening are slim, but it is a possibility. It will really depend on what the issue is, how bad it is, and how much the dealer will work with you on it whether or not it will be approved. Since the risk is so low most people don't care about it and just do what they want to it. If the taillight stops working, a slip-on won't affect that claim. If the TBs stop working and you've modified the ETV map and they can show that, it likely won't be fixed. The fact that it has a slip-on doesn't automatically void everything.
 

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I'm in Europe, the warranty here is by law 2 years instead of 12 months. I assume you are in the US, it's 12 months there from what i saw online. If it was 12 months I think I would have waited for the warranty period to end. Kawasaki EU and Kawasaki US are separate entities but that shouldn't matter for the warranty stuff you mentioned.

I get what you are saying it makes sense. There's nothing in my paperwork about the warranty that's why I'm asking you guys here. It's weird they should've included something right? Anyway I'll think about it before I make any moves. I guess I should give you some context as to why I fear that something may happen to the bike. This is my second 2020 ZX10. I got the first one in November of 2019, it was the first one delivered in Cyprus. After 20 days the engine blew up. Yep you read that right, the engine blew up after 20 days. I had 680KM on the odometer, haven't even finished the break in. The bike was (apparently) faulty from the factory. The dealer rebuilt the engine fully from my warranty claim and because I wasn't accepting the bike back they ordered me a new one. So the one I have now is my second. So far so good, 2800 KM on the odo and thankfully nothing to report. But the fear caused by the first bike is still there; can't go through that shit again.
 

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I'm in Europe, the warranty here is by law 2 years instead of 12 months. I assume you are in the US, it's 12 months there from what i saw online. If it was 12 months I think I would have waited for the warranty period to end. Kawasaki EU and Kawasaki US are separate entities but that shouldn't matter for the warranty stuff you mentioned.

I get what you are saying it makes sense. There's nothing in my paperwork about the warranty that's why I'm asking you guys here. It's weird they should've included something right? Anyway I'll think about it before I make any moves. I guess I should give you some context as to why I fear that something may happen to the bike. This is my second 2020 ZX10. I got the first one in November of 2019, it was the first one delivered in Cyprus. After 20 days the engine blew up. Yep you read that right, the engine blew up after 20 days. I had 680KM on the odometer, haven't even finished the break in. The bike was (apparently) faulty from the factory. The dealer rebuilt the engine fully from my warranty claim and because I wasn't accepting the bike back they ordered me a new one. So the one I have now is my second. So far so good, 2800 KM on the odo and thankfully nothing to report. But the fear caused by the first bike is still there; can't go through that shit again.
US here and it's 12 months. You can get the extended warranty out another 4 years on top of that, but it's extra. The dealers over here always give you an envelope with all the documents that include the warranty info. And Kawi sends more stuff in the mail later.

Yes, if you've already gone through something like that I can understand you being skittish about it. It sucks, but that's kind of a good thing. Major failures like that typically happen quickly. If the second one has gone this long already, I wouldn't be concerned. The issue though is you've already made a major warranty claim. If it happened again, they will scrutinize it a bit more. Swap out the exhaust and you should be good. If you start fooling around with the ECU software, just make sure you know what you're doing and can put it back to stock if there's an issue.
 

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Oh really? Well I didn't get anything.. that's weird.. Yeah that's a good idea actually. Will it be okay to fit a de-cat exhaust and air filter without an ECU flash? Some people say it's bad, others are saying it's okay xD I have a guy that flashes my bikes, he's very very good. And I'm never pushing the bike too much. I always run them well into the safe zone. I only do ECU flashes to make the fuel/air ratio as it should. After all when you change the air filter and the exhaust you tend to mess the ratio up. I know the stock ECU should be able to adapt to changes and control the air/fuel ratio but still many people are saying you should flash the ECU.
 

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Oh really? Well I didn't get anything.. that's weird.. Yeah that's a good idea actually. Will it be okay to fit a de-cat exhaust and air filter without an ECU flash? Some people say it's bad, others are saying it's okay xD I have a guy that flashes my bikes, he's very very good. And I'm never pushing the bike too much. I always run them well into the safe zone. I only do ECU flashes to make the fuel/air ratio as it should. After all when you change the air filter and the exhaust you tend to mess the ratio up. I know the stock ECU should be able to adapt to changes and control the air/fuel ratio but still many people are saying you should flash the ECU.
OK, Throwing on a slip-on and deleting the cat does 2 things - it drops a lot of weight and adds a lot of noise. Lots of people think this will cause it to run lean because of the drop in "backpressure". That isn't true and isn't accurate. The exhaust scavenging will change slightly which was tuned for the baffles in the cat. The narrowband oxgen sensor creates a closed-loop system and will adjust the short-term fuel trims to account for things like that. That's mounted to the header before it gets to the cat, let alone the slip-on. The ECU will do minor adjustments using the O2 sensor. If you want to change the fueling, you're limited by the narrowband sensor and what it can read. But you'll be fine with minor mods like that. But you can't just install it and expect the software to magically add power because of that. The air filter won't affect the AFR for any of that and the O2 sensor will trim it out. Just don't expect any major performance gains from a slip-on. A couple HP is all you'll effectively see. The primary purpose of the reflash is to adjust the ETV maps for the upper rev limit restrictions along with tweaking the fueling.
 

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OK, Throwing on a slip-on and deleting the cat does 2 things - it drops a lot of weight and adds a lot of noise. Lots of people think this will cause it to run lean because of the drop in "backpressure". That isn't true and isn't accurate. The exhaust scavenging will change slightly which was tuned for the baffles in the cat. The narrowband oxgen sensor creates a closed-loop system and will adjust the short-term fuel trims to account for things like that. That's mounted to the header before it gets to the cat, let alone the slip-on. The ECU will do minor adjustments using the O2 sensor. If you want to change the fueling, you're limited by the narrowband sensor and what it can read. But you'll be fine with minor mods like that. But you can't just install it and expect the software to magically add power because of that. The air filter won't affect the AFR for any of that and the O2 sensor will trim it out. Just don't expect any major performance gains from a slip-on. A couple HP is all you'll effectively see. The primary purpose of the reflash is to adjust the ETV maps for the upper rev limit restrictions along with tweaking the fueling.
What you just said is probably the best explanation I've heard regarding changing the exhaust, thank you for taking the time to explain!

I should've clarified earlier, I don't care about HP. I mean I already have a 210hp, 206kg bike. It's ridiculous in stock form never mind modding it. Nah man 200hp is plenty for me, well above my skill level too I'm not ashamed to admit it. I like changing exhausts for two reasons: looks and sound (in that order). The stock one is just too big and ugly, it hides the titanium pipe too so it has to go xD

Okay so I can do the filter and exhaust for now, see how it goes for a while and then go for a reflash. And like I said I only reflash the ECU to make the bike run optimally with the new parts (de-cat exhaust and filter), don't care about HP so if the bike will be running safe anyway what's the harm right..

Thanks for the explanation brother, it will come in handy in the future for sure
 
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