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2019 track bike

6K views 32 replies 9 participants last post by  Bloose 
#1 ·
I'm in the midst of prepping my 2019 ZX-10R for the race track. I have the stock body work removed and do not yet have the race plastic (it's on the way from Peru).

One issue I'm trying to get in front of is all the the electronics on the left side of the bike. There is a fuse box and the regulator as well as other things packed in there. It was all fastened to the stock body and now that the stock body is gone, I dont know how I'm going to mount it all.

The question I have is, what have others done to deal with this stuff?


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#2 ·
On my 18' I zip tied all the wires has tight and neat as possible and kept rectifier in same spot and drilled 1 hole in track plastics to put one bolt through body and rectifier in similar location as stock. I have more than enough clearance between all that mess and fork tubes. Others will chime in with probably cleaner ways to do so but I haven't had an issue yet.

What other mods have you got planned?
 
#3 ·
Not too many mods planned just yet.

Obviously race body
Woolich tuner and logger
Wide band O2
K&N filter
Decat
Slip on
Removed intake flap
520 chain and sprockets and lower ratio
Dyno time
DP race pads
Keyless fuel cap
Ignition key delete


Going to run the stock suspension and will only change spring rates if needed. Stock brakes and wheels too.


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#8 ·
Has anyone eliminated the key switch on these yet? I tried to install a push button and a relay but there is a gray wire from the key switch to the ECU. I don't have the immobilizer but it seems this grey wire has something other than a full 12vdc. When I turn the key to the on position I read 100 ohm between the grey and white wires. I'm not sure if its straight resistance or if there is some circuitry in there.

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#9 ·
Thanks to a post I found on a different generation ZX10R I was able to determine that the grey wire is indeed just 12vdc with a 100 ohm resistor in line going to the ECU. Connected that up and I no longer need a key!

Made a plate to press into the old switch hole. Hopefully it will stay put.


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#12 ·
I walked over to grab the Sawzall 3 or 4 times and just couldn't get myself to do it. Some day in the future I'll get a used tripple and cut it off and mill it flat. For not though, this works perfectly.

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#13 ·
I started this thread asking about the electronics and wiring on the left side of these bikes (5th gen). After giving it some thought and listening to suggestions I came up with a solution. If it is a problem going forward I will rethink it. I think though it should work well.

At the rear I have it attached to the upper fan mount on the radiator.


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#20 ·
The above is a video of our last race of the day. I was pretty worn out by then and the race surface was weeping water in several places on the race line.

All and all it was a great day. Weather couldn't have been better and the bike was amazing.

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#21 ·
Finally upgraded from that old CBR eh? I battled with you a lot last year on my zx10 and I think (probably already know already) that you'll really enjoy this bike. I ran the stock suspension all last year and honestly probably had no need to upgrade but I did switch it this winter. Looking forward to racing with you whenever I can get with the expert pack!

Kyle
Amateur #97(still stuck with yellow plates)
 
#23 ·
I am still having issues getting my bike to turn, but there are a few things I can advise,

Lift the rear. There are shim kits available to put between the upper rear shock clevis mount and the frame. Tank has to come off but pretty simple to do and you don’t even have to remove the shock.

Drop the front. I’ve seen 8mm recommended. With both the front and rear I’d go a bit at a time until you run into instability.

Get a real steering damper. The stock one may be okay for the street but for the track it’s too weak. Especially when you start getting aggressive with the chassis setup. A fellow on here makes a piece to make the stock damper much better. It’s less expensive than a new damper. Give it a look.

The rear shock - The short answer here is to get an Öhlins. The longer answer is that IMHO the rear shock is a decent unit held back by some design flaws. I tore mine down completely and reassembled it. Here is what I found

1) It is an absolute bear to get it apart. Even with the proper tools it is rediculas. Obviously they didn’t have tear down and revalving in mind when they designed it. It can be done, I did it, but it is stupid.

2) There was air in the shock from the factory! This is bad bad bad. I have no idea if this is common or not but this shock only had a couple hundred miles on it.

3) The valving seems to be too stiff. When I compare it to my Öhlins it seems to be much stiffer both in comp and reb.

4) No one makes custom valving for it. I took note of the valving in mine but short of experimenting you’re completely on your own.

5) The rear spring preload adjustment is just dumb. Hammer and a long chisel/screw driver? Crazy stupid.

You put that all together and you have a recipe for just getting a race shock. The Öhlins has a major advantage with the hydraulic preload adjustment. That alone makes it worth the price of admission. Add in available valving advice and the fact that it is made to be serviced (all be it with some special tools) and there just isn’t much reason to keep the stock shock.

One last piece of advice I can give you, is, have someone at the track dial it all in for you. I’d do all of the above myself, shock, ride height, and then have them do your “Baseline and sag”.

HTH


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#25 ·
OEM shock is decent enough up to a certain point. Many people who ride track, especially in A group typically upgrade the shock first and forks later. Although forks are good enough for much higher pace than what OEM shock can sustain. If you think about it, OEM shock is more setup for street and 2-up rides so it's not exactly track track-focused.

If you're interested but I have a sweet Penske shock I'm selling. It's more affordable than Ohlins and comes with several spring options. Would definitely be a step-up in your track setup.

Penske Triple Adjustable Shock Model: PRS 8760-A16 with 3 additional springs of different rates
8760 Series Triple Adjustable (Piggyback or Remote) | Penske Racing Shocks

Drop me a PM if interested.
 

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#26 ·
I went with the Ohlins front and rear. I also raised both the front and rear. *installed Q4 tires and now this bike is razor sharp, stable and has amazing leaned over side grip. I'm actually happy with the stock damper unit. Seems good on and off the track.

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#28 ·
Great thread, I'm busy doing my conversion now ie road to track. My plans are pretty much the same as you guys, plus I also have the issues regarding all that wiring on the fairings plus that EECS charcoal cannister on the right side
I picked up a 2nd hand KTec shock. Does anybody have experience with these here .. ie I assume they need to be raised/shimmed as well ? What amount ?
I will just run stock forks but plan on getting them re valved and sprung with Ohlins.
 
#29 ·
Raising the front? Hmmm, definitely haven't tried that. What is the advantage here? I thought Lowering the front was the companion to raising the rear, giving you steeper rake and less trail? Raising both also raises the COG. Like I said though, getting my bike to turn isn't as easy as I'd like so...

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#31 ·
A lot of the reading I've been doing is that the solution to the heavy front issue on these bikes is to drop the forks through until flush with the triple. I can't comment if it works as I'm still in the build process. Evidently, with the 200/55 - forks flush, rear up 5-8mm. With 200/60 drop rear back down.
 
#30 ·
I'm not the geometry expert but it's about the best compromise of swing arm angle, rake and trail. Depending on the model / year, you may also gain some lean angle before hard parts drag when you raise the bike. And don't overlook your tire diameter in this equation - some rears are 15-20 mm taller than others.
 
#32 ·
Honestly, I'm pretty dumb when it comes to suspension! I have trusted in TSE for many years and they have always been great. I'm certainly not the fasted guy, and they are not the only suspension tuners out there, but everytime they mess with my bike it always feel better. I have them refresh the shock and forks every year so I know the suspension is always in better shape than I am. They recommend the front end extension from working with fast guys (low 1:10's at Blackhawk) , so I said "what the hell!" and had them do mine too.
 
#33 ·
The TSE people are always really nice at the track. If I break down and pay the pro, they will likely be my 1st choice.

The real issue is I'm just too damn cheap. Or, put another way, my budget is very small. I've broken down and paid for services but I will struggle mightily before I get to that point. Doing so has allowed me to do more with less and to learn a lot along the way. There is no question my life would be easier if I just paid the experts. The problem is, given the choice between not racing because I can't afford expert help, or racing and learning through trial and error and research, I'll choose the latter.

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