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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the midst of prepping my 2019 ZX-10R for the race track. I have the stock body work removed and do not yet have the race plastic (it's on the way from Peru).

One issue I'm trying to get in front of is all the the electronics on the left side of the bike. There is a fuse box and the regulator as well as other things packed in there. It was all fastened to the stock body and now that the stock body is gone, I dont know how I'm going to mount it all.

The question I have is, what have others done to deal with this stuff?


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On my 18' I zip tied all the wires has tight and neat as possible and kept rectifier in same spot and drilled 1 hole in track plastics to put one bolt through body and rectifier in similar location as stock. I have more than enough clearance between all that mess and fork tubes. Others will chime in with probably cleaner ways to do so but I haven't had an issue yet.

What other mods have you got planned?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
On my 18' I zip tied all the wires has tight and neat as possible and kept rectifier in same spot and drilled 1 hole in track plastics to put one bolt through body and rectifier in similar location as stock. I have more than enough clearance between all that mess and fork tubes. Others will chime in with probably cleaner ways to do so but I haven't had an issue yet.

What other mods have you got planned?
Not too many mods planned just yet.

Obviously race body
Woolich tuner and logger
Wide band O2
K&N filter
Decat
Slip on
Removed intake flap
520 chain and sprockets and lower ratio
Dyno time
DP race pads
Keyless fuel cap
Ignition key delete


Going to run the stock suspension and will only change spring rates if needed. Stock brakes and wheels too.


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!

Not too many mods planned just yet.

Obviously race body
Woolich tuner and logger
Wide band O2
K&N filter
Decat
Slip on
Removed intake flap
520 chain and sprockets and lower ratio
Dyno time
DP race pads
Keyless fuel cap
Ignition key delete


Going to run the stock suspension and will only change spring rates if needed. Stock brakes and wheels too.


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Yea you will be happy with the bike! I am running a very similar setup only with spring change but still stock suspension setup for me. Sprocket change and de-restricting ECU will be best upgrades! I just upgraded brake fluid and put on RJL pads and one finger braking power all day long..

What tracks will you be running?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Racing CCS Midwest. That’s mostly Blackhawk Farms but also a day at ACC and one at Brainerd. Will also be running Road America and likely a weekend at Barber to break the motor in.


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Discussion Starter #8
Has anyone eliminated the key switch on these yet? I tried to install a push button and a relay but there is a gray wire from the key switch to the ECU. I don't have the immobilizer but it seems this grey wire has something other than a full 12vdc. When I turn the key to the on position I read 100 ohm between the grey and white wires. I'm not sure if its straight resistance or if there is some circuitry in there.

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks to a post I found on a different generation ZX10R I was able to determine that the grey wire is indeed just 12vdc with a 100 ohm resistor in line going to the ECU. Connected that up and I no longer need a key!

Made a plate to press into the old switch hole. Hopefully it will stay put.


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Thanks to a post I found on a different generation ZX10R I was able to determine that the grey wire is indeed just 12vdc with a 100 ohm resistor in line going to the ECU. Connected that up and I no longer need a key!

Made a plate to press into the old switch hole. Hopefully it will stay put.


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I was going say just cut it off. But ok looks nice

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Discussion Starter #12
I walked over to grab the Sawzall 3 or 4 times and just couldn't get myself to do it. Some day in the future I'll get a used tripple and cut it off and mill it flat. For not though, this works perfectly.

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Discussion Starter #13
I started this thread asking about the electronics and wiring on the left side of these bikes (5th gen). After giving it some thought and listening to suggestions I came up with a solution. If it is a problem going forward I will rethink it. I think though it should work well.

At the rear I have it attached to the upper fan mount on the radiator.


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That is why I went with the Kit harness and the oil catch tank. This way all of these parts are relocated.

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Discussion Starter #15
Made a couple of tapered captive rear wheel spacers today. Made putting a slick on the back do much easier.

Have to make a set for the front now.


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Made a couple of tapered captive rear wheel spacers today. Made putting a slick on the back do much easier.

Have to make a set for the front now.


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Those look really nice. Next time start with a larger diameter piece of material and make the spacer tapper extend to the edge of the seal and low profile. This way they can't get kicked out when you are installing the wheel.

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks. I would have made them larger but I used what I had on hand. If I have problems with them I'll order the material and get exactly what I want.

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Discussion Starter #20
The above is a video of our last race of the day. I was pretty worn out by then and the race surface was weeping water in several places on the race line.

All and all it was a great day. Weather couldn't have been better and the bike was amazing.

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