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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone else had issues with their front sprocket nut? I use my ZX for race and change gearing fairly often. The last time I removed the nut the threads in the nut were shot. I ordered 3 from Partzilla but they have yet to ship. No one local has them either.

I did find a place somewhat locally that has a Ti M20x1.5 flanged nut that I am gong to try to machine to work. I've never machined Ti so that should be fun. :) If it works though I may be able to help out others in need.

Is this a common problem or is this unique to me?

B
 

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There always tight the first time you break them off, following the manual specification on re-assemble you never get the same issue. I have never had damaged threads though. I have often read here you guys in the US having difficulty getting parts quickly, i don't know why that is? Here any of the main Kawasaki parts suppliers generally have them on my doorstep within 48 hours.
 

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Has anyone else had issues with their front sprocket nut? I use my ZX for race and change gearing fairly often. The last time I removed the nut the threads in the nut were shot. I ordered 3 from Partzilla but they have yet to ship. No one local has them either.

I did find a place somewhat locally that has a Ti M20x1.5 flanged nut that I am gong to try to machine to work. I've never machined Ti so that should be fun. :) If it works though I may be able to help out others in need.

Is this a common problem or is this unique to me?

B
What method did you use to remove the nut the first time?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
What method did you use to remove the nut the first time?
Just used a breaker bar.

Getting it off the 1st time really wasn't an issue. As I've said, I've had it off and on a ton of times, likely around 20. I would guess street riders and even track day riders that always run the same track don't do gear changes as often as I have. I run at Road America, Blackhawk Farms Raceway, and Autobahn Country Club, and also ran Daytona this year. In addition I take the running gear (chain and sprockets) off periodically through the year for thorough cleaning. Everything gets torqued down to the factory spec.

One mistake I did make is not putting a Moly/oil lube on the threads like the manual states. I didn't notice that little detail when I looked at it until now. Usually if they wanted lube there they would have had lube from the factory. I guess not in this case.

I did see a post from a while back about someone having a titanium sprocket nut made for a pretty outrageous price. It looks like I may be able to come up with something in the $40 range.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Partzilla shipped the nuts and I will have them by next Tuesday. I will still be working on the Ti replacement but it will be good to have the originals in case I have problems machining titanium.
 

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The nut is loctited from the factory. The first time getting it off is always a bit of a struggle. I've used a cheap 200lb electric impact wrench in the past. You just have to hold it on for longer and let it impact the nut for an extended period. If using a breaker bar, just apply a shock torque to it to break the loctite first. Once it's loose, then you should have no further issues. You should also be using the outer nut flats, not the smaller inner ones.
 

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Pro-bolt used to make a Ti countersprocket nut. Don't know if they still have it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pro-bolt used to make a Ti countersprocket nut. Don't know if they still have it.
From another post it seems they sold the last couple they had in stock a while ago. I have to wonder why they stopped making them. Were they failing in the field? Not selling? Were the threads on the output shaft failing and they were getting blamed for it? It's interesting that they stopped selling them.

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Find out what size front the fast liter guys are rocking at your track. End of story.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here is a new stock sprocket nut compared to a generic (not generic in brand, but it's just a standard M20×1.5 flanged Ti nut) Ti flanged nut from Racetech.


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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Here is the relief cut in the back of the Ti nut. This is so the nut doesn't contact the output shaft splines.


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Discussion Starter #12
Machined the flanges flat to mimick the stock nut


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Discussion Starter #13
Also turned a chamfer on the outer diameter to allow for the lock washer.


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Titanium can gall when it rubs on itself and sometimes other metals. It isn't especially hard as it is strong and light. Steel is usually the better option for shit like that but the titanium is for sure lighter so can't hurt. Just always use lube so it doesn't gal
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Titanium can gall when it rubs on itself and sometimes other metals. It isn't especially hard as it is strong and light. Steel is usually the better option for shit like that but the titanium is for sure lighter so can't hurt. Just always use lube so it doesn't gal
The stock steel one didn't hold up too well without lube itself.

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Used a 1/2” M18 Fuel impact wrench...the nut came off in 3 seconds lol..I’m in love with this tool


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