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Discussion Starter #1
I’m new to tuning/modding bikes, but I’m looking to get the most out of my 2017 10RR. I’m interested in doing anything short of motor work like race cams or gaskets and stuff. I know full system, flash, air filter are the typical suspects. But what else is out there? I’ve seen airbox heat wraps, and intake flapper deletes. Anything else to remove, any other emissions shit to pull out ? Even if they only give 1-2hp gains or minute weight reductions I’d like to hear them.
 

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I've just started tinkering with my 17 - and small things have woken it up (and it was quick in stock form, mine is a euro bike).

I've reflashed the ecu (Woolich), decatted with a good, free flowing exhaust and added a K&N filter just for the sake of it.
The ecu runs stock maps for now, with emissions features turned off (and the autoblipper enabled, it's a hoot :D ), the maps I've looked at that can be downloaded, I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole...the bike will have the stock fuelling checked on a dyno next week - it runs very, very well.

And the front sprocket is dropped one tooth - and it's very, very lively at the moment.


Best thing to start with is a to get the Woolich Racing stuff, get rid of the emissions crap (carbon canister, KLEEN, exhaust valve).
And get a reputable tuner to work on the fuelling on a dyno, the autotune is a quick way to cut corners, but it still needs an experienced hand after the autotune has worked its magic.

Then take it from there, I wouldn't open the motor, very little gains for a lot of money on an already stressed engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Do the euro spec bikes have the neutered throttle maps? Good starting points I’m looking to do a flash now (probably with SBU) while pulling out the charcoal stuff, flapper, and pair system while wrapping the airbox. then eventually auto tune, exhaust, and filter. Stock motor for now. Any basics I’m missing?
 

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Do the euro spec bikes have the neutered throttle maps? Good starting points I’m looking to do a flash now (probably with SBU) while pulling out the charcoal stuff, flapper, and pair system while wrapping the airbox. then eventually auto tune, exhaust, and filter. Stock motor for now. Any basics I’m missing?
the Euro maps are supposed to be derestricted as far as the lost 20 or so HP that USA bikes could have. it might only be 15 but since I don't own both bikes in stock form and a Dyno I can only go off what others say. Euro I believe still has the top speed limit and a fairly low rev limit which can safely be raised a bit without worrying unless you just like to bounce it off the limiter on a regular basis. If your trying to dump weight, past the cat delete and emissions crap a low mount exhaust so you can get rid of the hanger, titanium bolts, like everywhere and carbon fiber fairings are about as much as you can do if you still street ride. If you only do track the race ECU and harness and generator will lose some weight and since lights are not needed with race stuff that is more weight, BST carbon wheels are a bit lighter as well. a lithium battery, remove the damn servo under the seat etc....race seat, the abs can be removed and a fuse pulled or a dongle added to not throw a code and have it work without it, rear reservoir removal although I have never done that so have no clue what it involves, but yeah there is a straight euro to USA map port with no other mods which is a good place to start.
 

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Here are my opinions..

The bike needs an ECU flash just for the ETV remapping, just to be rideable. (UK may be different).
Delete the intake flapper and servo, charcoal can, exhaust valve, cat.
Add the ABS dongle if you want to turn the ABS off.
Get a custom dyno tune and/or Autotune.
-1 front sprocket.
520 chain kit.

The Marchesini wheels are pretty heavy, so huge gains can be made by going carbon or magnesium.

I did all of the above plus I went with the kit cams, and head gasket. Still no midrange, but its a rocket over 10k.

Next mods include:
Rear wheel quickchange kit
AIM dash
Marchesini Magnesium wheels
 

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Simply replace the can and the fender and good to go, along with Twist o'Wrist ii, which you'll will have to read a few hundred times WHILE riding everyday to sort it out as you go.

fyi, if you can not ride a tricky loop EVERYDAY, then do your above show bike trick; or Starbucks trick; or whatever scam dreamed.
 

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LoL scout! good to see you back around with your twist of the wrist comments.. =P What about oil changes?
 

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ECU flash gives better performance.
Cheat by changing front sprocket --- makes it feel like better performance, with out actually changing the engine ro electronics.
 

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Remember, animate you make it go faster, also look at getting it to stop quicker - race break pads (and that a whole discussion and opinion section) and upgraded MC are probably a good idea
 

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Not too mention suspension upgrades to keep the black stuff on the ground better - but we really are getting into track /race stuff now. How far do you want to take this?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All the way at some point ideally, but I’m not experienced enough to justify dropping big money on suspension or brake upgrades yet.

I figure if I’m getting it flashed to derestrict the throttle, I might as well rip all the emissions shit out, do the basic airbox and tank wrap, and then throw a filter in since I’m already in there. Then I plan on an exhaust, because it seems to be the next most efficient performance gain.

In the next few years I’d like to be doing track days consistently enough to slap some better brakes, suspension, and data logger/dash. Any motor mods are even father in the future hopefully lol.
 
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If I remember correctly, I believe most of the US has straight wide roads.

I would look for mountains and curves if possible. Rather than spending money in going faster.

I personally enjoy more the curves than going super fast in a straight line.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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All the way at some point ideally, but I’m not experienced enough to justify dropping big money on suspension or brake upgrades yet.

I figure if I’m getting it flashed to derestrict the throttle, I might as well rip all the emissions shit out, do the basic airbox and tank wrap, and then throw a filter in since I’m already in there. Then I plan on an exhaust, because it seems to be the next most efficient performance gain.

In the next few years I’d like to be doing track days consistently enough to slap some better brakes, suspension, and data logger/dash. Any motor mods are even father in the future hopefully lol.
Brembo RCS 19 Corsa Corsa Master cylinder will sort brakes. the M50 calipers are fine just change the pads
KTech or Ohlins shock will sort rear-end other makes about that are cheaper
Just got my Woolich V3 with data logger with the wideband kit and a de-cat pipe just waiting on Graves block off plates from the US. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Brembo RCS 19 Corsa Corsa Master cylinder will sort brakes. the M50 calipers are fine just change the pads
KTech or Ohlins shock will sort rear-end other makes about that are cheaper
Just got my Woolich V3 with data logger with the wideband kit and a de-cat pipe just waiting on Graves block off plates from the US. :)
One day when I’m a real boy I’m gonna install an aim mxk10 with all the cool sensors like suspension travel, brake pressure, throttle input, etc.

Is the other master cylinder that big of a difference? I figured both being Brembo they wouldn’t be that complicated but it seems like there’s 200 different models of cylinders alone. What pads would you recommend?
 

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I'm into this thread myself. I just purchased a 2017RR with 2K kms, it's a long story and if you read my post on the discussion section it will be clear.
So, I haven't even ridden the thing yet cos I can't get it going but again, read my other post. It will go once I get it to the dyno / electronic tech. It will be remapped with the FTECU gear.
My immediate aims are to get another exhaust system and I have a used Scorpion with the link pipe sourced and hopefully here soon.
I need rear sets with the reverse shift set up …. any suggestions. I haven't ridden road shift for years and wouldn't even try now.
I see all the suggestions are block offs and emissions removal etc so I'll do that.
Drop the front sprocket one tooth definitely.
I'm actually limiting myself to that until I get a bit of time on it this summer on the roads. Twisties are at my doorstep.
Next winter I'll sell my 07 R1 track bike, don't be fooled into thinking it's ancient. It is electronics wise but it's a beast otherwise, 190 RWHP. I do my own engine work and have a lot inside that thing but timing and tuning are the key to getting it all out, believe me, it's an awesome machine with all the fruit to make it fast, light and nicely behaved.
Anyway, I have no doubt the Zx10RR will be a big step forward. I brought it because it was very cheap and I felt that a change was needed before I hang up the gloves. I don't want to retire but age catches up to us all and I know my days on machinery like this numbered, so one last fling eh.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm into this thread myself. I just purchased a 2017RR with 2K kms, it's a long story and if you read my post on the discussion section it will be clear.
So, I haven't even ridden the thing yet cos I can't get it going but again, read my other post. It will go once I get it to the dyno / electronic tech. It will be remapped with the FTECU gear.
My immediate aims are to get another exhaust system and I have a used Scorpion with the link pipe sourced and hopefully here soon.
I need rear sets with the reverse shift set up …. any suggestions. I haven't ridden road shift for years and wouldn't even try now.
I see all the suggestions are block offs and emissions removal etc so I'll do that.
Drop the front sprocket one tooth definitely.
I'm actually limiting myself to that until I get a bit of time on it this summer on the roads. Twisties are at my doorstep.
Next winter I'll sell my 07 R1 track bike, don't be fooled into thinking it's ancient. It is electronics wise but it's a beast otherwise, 190 RWHP. I do my own engine work and have a lot inside that thing but timing and tuning are the key to getting it all out, believe me, it's an awesome machine with all the fruit to make it fast, light and nicely behaved.
Anyway, I have no doubt the Zx10RR will be a big step forward. I brought it because it was very cheap and I felt that a change was needed before I hang up the gloves. I don't want to retire but age catches up to us all and I know my days on machinery like this numbered, so one last fling eh.
Id be careful with the ftecu software. I had my bike flashed by SBU using ftecu, and the difference is phenomenal, but the new fueling has made the autoblipper way too aggressive. It lurches forward hard every downshift, and as far as I know ft can’t adjust the autoblip. I believe woolich can, but ft locks the ecu, so I can’t just buy the woolich software and try it. Waiting to hear back from SBU at the moment.
 

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rear sets by vortex 2.0, they come with a deal that allows you to go GP shift pattern with stock sensor and all the other shit left OEM. Just swap the rearsets and add the little toggle deal it comes with. Very adjustable and very sturdy. Also one of the members on this forum has ftecu password so ask around and I'm sure whoever it was saying they wanted to go woolich can make that happen
 

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Discussion Starter #20
rear sets by vortex 2.0, they come with a deal that allows you to go GP shift pattern with stock sensor and all the other shit left OEM. Just swap the rearsets and add the little toggle deal it comes with. Very adjustable and very sturdy. Also one of the members on this forum has ftecu password so ask around and I'm sure whoever it was saying they wanted to go woolich can make that happen
SBU has said they’re working on a solution, so I’m waiting on that. Its good to know I have another option though, thanks!
 
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