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Mine still does this shit too.
All street,canyon riding.
It QS fine below 7,000 rpm,, but when im above 8,000 and pinning the throttle,, 4,5,6th is not dependable
 

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Hi All!

My problems with the quickshifter arise only at the track, during heavily accelerating from the corner when bike is leaning on either side and rear wheel is sliding. Immediately after the bike is vertically straight, QS will work and gear will engage.
I have also tried the bike with TC off, but it does not have any affect.

Bike is ZX10R 2017 and tuned with Woolich Racing bin file + PP-Tuning rearsets


- Is there any features in the Woolich files/system that I should check to erase possible faulty setup?


Thank you for your help and greetings from Finland!
-JULLE

In my case the QS issue was completely removed by loading/Buying the additiona Woolich Race tool-file.

New 3D QS timing and possible other features that Race tool enabled did solve my problem and QS work perfecly. Shifting is smooth, no mistakes and gear engage no matter what angle or position the bike is.
- I would highly recommend to try this!
 

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I just googled how to fit part number 13161-0078 gear shift change shaft and read apparently they crack and can cause shifting problems.
It's not the end with the shifter but the join in the L shape of it.
Not sure if this is the cure but it wouldn't help if it was cracked!
 

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It was an older thread but the issue sounds familiar.....

 

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Hi,

Did you just buy the Race tools software and keep the factory quickshifter? Then adjust the sensitivity and shift TPS & ms settings in Race tools and flash the ECU?

I have just started to get the upshift to 3rd or 4th or 5th issue under hard acceleration. Thinking of trying GP shift to flip it over just to cross that off the list. I got that new shaft on order. My downshifts are perfect thanks to Woolich and TDH's quickshifter/ETV/Fuel map.
The bike runs so good on those settings, not just runs good but rides fantastic. The chassis/bike is super stable and never gets out of shape during WOT or rolling off throttle mid corner, quickshifter is butter smooth and the fuel map works well. I have done 3000kms so far and haven't changed anything it feels so good.

Mine is a 2016 & I didn't need Race tools to modify the autoblipper settings but the up quickshifter settings I would need Race tools.

Ash
received_679702522777128.jpeg
 

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Hi,

Did you just buy the Race tools software and keep the factory quickshifter? Then adjust the sensitivity and shift TPS & ms settings in Race tools and flash the ECU?

I have just started to get the upshift to 3rd or 4th or 5th issue under hard acceleration. Thinking of trying GP shift to flip it over just to cross that off the list. I got that new shaft on order. My downshifts are perfect thanks to Woolich and TDH's quickshifter/ETV/Fuel map.
The bike runs so good on those settings, not just runs good but rides fantastic. The chassis/bike is super stable and never gets out of shape during WOT or rolling off throttle mid corner, quickshifter is butter smooth and the fuel map works well. I have done 3000kms so far and haven't changed anything it feels so good.

Mine is a 2016 & I didn't need Race tools to modify the autoblipper settings but the up quickshifter settings I would need Race tools.

Ash
Um, the shift shaft you mention is related to the older Gen 3. It was redesigned in '09 to beef it up. I don't think that's going to resolve your issue. If you go GP, you can't just flip the arm over. The arm would need to be shortened with a Gen 3 version. The OEM QS sensor will then interfere with the frame in that area. Your best option for GP shift is to use a bellcrank setup on the rearset and leave the sensor orientation alone. You can use the WR kit to reverse the direction of the sensor, but there's mechanical hurdles to overcome beyond that. GP shift is pretty awesome though and once you do that, you'll never go back. ;)
 

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Um, the shift shaft you mention is related to the older Gen 3. It was redesigned in '09 to beef it up. I don't think that's going to resolve your issue. If you go GP, you can't just flip the arm over. The arm would need to be shortened with a Gen 3 version. The OEM QS sensor will then interfere with the frame in that area. Your best option for GP shift is to use a bellcrank setup on the rearset and leave the sensor orientation alone. You can use the WR kit to reverse the direction of the sensor, but there's mechanical hurdles to overcome beyond that. GP shift is pretty awesome though and once you do that, you'll never go back. ;)
I meant GP shift through Woolich, just tick the box and reflash the ECU.
That shaft I bought as a spare on Ebay, same seller had all the fairings and all brand new. I put ridiculous offers in and they accepted so I now have brand new spares in my shed.

I adjusted the footpeg so it was right on my toe. I found if I pushed up and right it was good on the changes. But there is alot of slack in the whole shifter area, that's why I tried pushing right and up to cover the slack.

But Woolich would be the answer I reckon, Race Tools.
 

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I meant GP shift through Woolich, just tick the box and reflash the ECU.
That shaft I bought as a spare on Ebay, same seller had all the fairings and all brand new. I put ridiculous offers in and they accepted so I now have brand new spares in my shed.

I adjusted the footpeg so it was right on my toe. I found if I pushed up and right it was good on the changes. But there is alot of slack in the whole shifter area, that's why I tried pushing right and up to cover the slack.

But Woolich would be the answer I reckon, Race Tools.
Ok. I think you're mistaken. The checkbox in Woolich only changes the sensor orientation. It doesn't change the shifting. That's mechanical. If you're already running GP shift then you have to reverse the sensor or it won't work. Checking that box by itself will only make the sensor change directions and then it will try to auto blip on upshift. And it will quick shift on downshift. You have to reverse the pedal movement and that can't be done through software. That's why I was trying to explain it the way I did before.

The slack for the shifter is because of the plain bearing pivot in the pedal itself. The shift shaft won't change that. There's a thread on here about changing the pivot to a roller bearing to tighten it up. I'll try to find it if you can't, but that's the only fix unless you go to an aftermarket rearset.


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Has anyone with this problem tried tightening up the chain tension a bit? I had this problem on my gen4 running woolich QS. The problem disappeared when i changed to a 520 chain with -1 front sprocket. I ran the bike on the dyno shifting up and down through the gears to replicate the problem.. the chain slack was really noticeable at high throttle openings and high rpms. Simple fix was to tighten the chain tension a bit. After some trial and error with the, problem solved ?. Never came back

My 19 SE has not shown any problems with the QS up and down functions yet. 11k kms with stock drivetrain.

Try the chain slack adjustments.. its free
 

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Has anyone with this problem tried tightening up the chain tension a bit? I had this problem on my gen4 running woolich QS. The problem disappeared when i changed to a 520 chain with -1 front sprocket. I ran the bike on the dyno shifting up and down through the gears to replicate the problem.. the chain slack was really noticeable at high throttle openings and high rpms. Simple fix was to tighten the chain tension a bit. After some trial and error with the, problem solved ?. Never came back

My 19 SE has not shown any problems with the QS up and down functions yet. 11k kms with stock drivetrain.

Try the chain slack adjustments.. its free
Chain slack is adjusted for swingarm movement up and down. Since the drive sprocket, swingarm pivot, and rear sprocket are not in line with each other, the chain slack is set so the swingarm can move up and down it doesn't pull the chain apart. If you compress the rear shock so that all 3 are in line, there should be no slack in the chain as it's the tightest point. It should have no slack, but not be tight. That translates to about an 1" to an 1.25" of slack when the shock extends unloaded. It's not adjusted for this reason.

Tension too tight and it limits the suspension movement and can damage the transmission. Too loose and it can develop a wave that whips and can jump off the sprockets. On/off throttle transitions will be affected by too much slack. Check for proper chain tension always, but don't change anything to try to resolve this issue.
 

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my bike a Gen 5 has aftermarket rear sets, a woolich tune and woolich QS, the issue never occurs on the track as I am usually shifting each gear above 10k

I've had my transmission rebuilt and clutch pack replaced.

issue only occurs on WOT between 5000 - 6500rpm only

Down shift blip is never a problem.

The issue is yawn!

Kawasaki have no idea what the cause is
Why in the fuck would anyone be shifting up with wot at anything under 13000 rpm? I do get it. If you are asking the bike to give you wide open and the. Shifting before the fucker even starts to wake up, you are just lugging the engine, bogging her down and causing undo stress in a reverse direction than that of the engine rotation. That will cause some really odd wear and can lead to spun bearings etc. If you are going wot then do so but don't shift b4 the bike even starts to hit it's power band
 

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Actually, short shifting is a technique to help keep the bike stable on certain corners. Coming out of switchbacks and certain "S" turns I will short shift so I can stay WOT without upsetting bike.

Just pointing out there is a reason for short shifting. I do agree that if your shifting at 5-6K you should use clutch but on track it does have its benefits...
 

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In my case the QS issue was completely removed by loading/Buying the additiona Woolich Race tool-file.

New 3D QS timing and possible other features that Race tool enabled did solve my problem and QS work perfecly. Shifting is smooth, no mistakes and gear engage no matter what angle or position the bike is.
- I would highly recommend to try this!
I am thinking of buying the Race Tools software only.....
Just reading/looking at the available settings in Race Tools.
What settings did you put in? Or did you change anything from the standard Woolich settings or just enable it and flash the ECU?
Preload time? Wouldn't that be the same as the shifting time in ms?
Under Maps it has autoblipper target RPM?

So you resolved the upshifting unreliability with Race Tools how exactly? Just enable it and flash the ECU or changing the Woolich settings?

Cheers

Ashley
 

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I changed TDH's settings on my bike.
Under Advanced settings the quickshifter times are all 100 in Woolich - TDH had changed those to 85 & 80 but those settings are not in ms or in race tools, they are a Woolich specific number. Anyway as soon as I changed it to 80 & 85 I had constant issues upshifting to 3rd or 4th but I changed it back to 100 on all gears and it is back to normal, upshifting with no problems.

On the autoblipper settings I found that 55ms to 65ms is perfect for any revs and shifts seamlessly with no movement in the frame during cornering. Bike is super stable.

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