Same here.Perhaps someone with more knowledge can confirm/correct me but I was told to not use qs for 1-2 as the gear ratio is very different and it puts stress on box. 2-3 3-4 etc are close ratio and it's easier to shift. I'd use clutch 1-2 then row the gears with qs
That's my recommendation also! I've rebuilt enough transmissions in my day to worry about the 1-2 shift going through neutral to not use the QS at that time. Especially on a road bike. Dricked and his racing experience says otherwise, and that's cool. :mrgreen: Racing is a different animal than using the QS on some trackdays and the road. Gears 2 thru 6 only and no preloading it either!Perhaps someone with more knowledge can confirm/correct me but I was told to not use qs for 1-2 as the gear ratio is very different and it puts stress on box. 2-3 3-4 etc are close ratio and it's easier to shift. I'd use clutch 1-2 then row the gears with qs
No, I've made sure my foot is well clear and make sure I give it a good positive kick as I've had issue with accidentally preloading beforeAre you preloading the shifter ? I know I had that habit with my triumph qs.
I disagree, of course. Preloading the shifter is NOT good habit. It's bad habit. You've obviously never torn into a sequential gear transmission to understand how they work.I don't see how preloading the shifter would cause any problem and I think it's a good habit of getting into as long as you don't apply too much force to trigger the sensor.
The more important thing is we don't actually have an answer to the OP's question. Why would the bike not shift at that RPM range, anything in the manual? I doubt this problem would occur with an aftermarket sensor.
I disagree, of course. Preloading the shifter is NOT good habit. It's bad habit. You've obviously never torn into a sequential gear transmission to understand how they work.
The constant mess gear pairs slide along a bar and engage each other on the side. In order to do that, a shift fork moves them. The gears are always spinning, but the shift forks do not. Preloading the gear shift linkage causes the stationary shift fork to sit against the spinning gear pairs. If you don't think that will prematurely cause the shift forks to heat up, bend, and wear out, you're wrong. And doing that with a quickshifter in the loop can cause the switch to be tripped, interrupt the ignition, and all without the proper force on the shift linkage to begin with. In race conditions, with an engine teardown and rebuild every race or so or when crucial milliseconds are measured, it might gain you something. For all other people, preloading the shifter just causes you to post threads on here asking other people why your shit don't shift right. :idea:
+1. Also agree with not using the QS between 1 & 2. Too much of an rpm difference and too much torque to screw things up.I disagree, of course. Preloading the shifter is NOT good habit. It's bad habit. You've obviously never torn into a sequential gear transmission to understand how they work.
The constant mess gear pairs slide along a bar and engage each other on the side. In order to do that, a shift fork moves them. The gears are always spinning, but the shift forks do not. Preloading the gear shift linkage causes the stationary shift fork to sit against the spinning gear pairs. If you don't think that will prematurely cause the shift forks to heat up, bend, and wear out, you're wrong. And doing that with a quickshifter in the loop can cause the switch to be tripped, interrupt the ignition, and all without the proper force on the shift linkage to begin with. In race conditions, with an engine teardown and rebuild every race or so or when crucial milliseconds are measured, it might gain you something. For all other people, preloading the shifter just causes you to post threads on here asking other people why your shit don't shift right. :idea:
lots of issues with the gen5, in the trans department.
heard that from a respectable mechanic that does a not of race engines.
