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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I’m starting this thread to document my bike setup, to share with those who may benefit from it, and to get feedback during the process. The bike has GP fork cartridges, a K-Tech 35DDS Pro shock, and has the kit ECU/harness. I’m racing mostly tight and technical tracks in CO, NM, and AZ at the Expert level.

The 2021 season was my first on this bike and it was very busy. I did some brief setup work early in the season and then just focused on getting used to the bike and finding the right TC settings. Overall, me and the bike did ok. Over the next month I’ll have the chance to dedicate a few weekends to setup so I can start the 2022 season with a dialed bike. I should be able to get in at least 4 days of testing I think.

Here are my current settings:
  • Fork tubes 3 mm above triple clamp (cartridges add 7 mm from stock), ~519 mm from top of lower triple to center of front axle
  • Shock @ 310 mm stretched, 5 mm spacer + 7 mm additional = 322 mm total
  • Using MSS -0.5 degree, +5 mm (forward) head inserts
  • Stock position swingarm pivot
  • Swingarm length ~602 mm
  • 105 shock spring, 13 mm preload
  • 10.5 fork springs, 4 turns preload (so 4 mm + whatever installed preload is, this is just enough to compress the topout spring), 180 mm oil level
  • Running Pirelli 125, 200/65s
Before I put the head cups in I was running the rear @ 324 mm total length to get the bike to steer. After install that was too high so I dropped it 2 mm, but one of the first things I’ll be testing is dropping it more. Based on measurements I’ve seen on stock bikes, the stock swingarm angle is around 12.2 degrees (where ideal is around 12.6 - 12.8) and that is using the stock 309 mm shock length + 5 mm spacer = 314 mm total. Because the bike tracked better mid corner after dropping the rear a bit, I suspect I will end up going down quite a bit more. Any thoughts on shock length/swingarm angle?

I currently have about 22 mm of unused travel in the forks. That has gone up since earlier in the season and I wonder if I’m just braking less now. I plan to test with lighter fork springs. Let me know what you think about spring rates, I’m 195 in street clothes. Regarding fork length/front end height, I think the stock setting is 7 mm of tube showing above the triple, so I’m somewhere around 12 mm higher than stock at the front. Based on that and the longer shock length my CoG is quite a bit higher than stock, but by how much I’m not sure.

The bike isn’t doing anything in particular that I’m trying to fix, but it doesn’t seem to lock into turns the way I’ve experienced on other bikes. I guess I’m looking for that feeling where you can let both hands off the bars mid corner and have the bike track all the way through on its own, holding it’s line perfectly. This is currently not how the bike feels. That combined with nice quick steering and this bike will be a real weapon, although I know this combination might not be easy to find! I wonder if just dropping the rear might get me there and with softer springs it may settle into the corner better but I guess we’ll see. I hope to get some testing in next week but it may not be until early January.

Any feedback on my current setup and direction I’m trying to head would be appreciated.


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What tires do you use? Your weight?

Are you running wide on exits?
Pirelli 125, 200/65s. I'm 195 in street clothes. There are some corners that I would say I'd want it to hold a tighter line but it is not always an issue, sorry to be vague on that one.
 

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Would highly recommend Bobby at mottorev suspension tuning while you are at Colorado. Working with a professional tuner will help bring you closer to what you are looking for.
 

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I’m on a Gen4, but I’m the same weight as you. My settings are pretty similar:

ohlins shock - 105 spring with attack link
319 mm effective shock length
1.1 fork springs (1.05 would probably be ok for me too)
BPF with race tech valve kit, no extenders
7 mm of fork tube showing
Have run Dunlop and Michelin slicks

I just purchased triples in an attempt to improve steering quickness and possibly front end feel. The bike works well as is, but I feel like it fights me to hold a line when pushing hard, and could transition a little quicker.

I would try dropping your front end before changing springs, especially if you are running tighter tracks. The rest of your setup seems close based on what I’ve seen others running.

I think the the rear grip and feel is about perfect on my bike currently. I’ve tried various shock lengths and springs and like where I’m at.

Keep us posted with what you find.

Matt
 

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2016 ZX10R and a couple of 09-12 ZX6R's
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Subscribed! I moved from racing an 09-12 ZX6R for 1.5 years to a '16 ZX10R. I didn't race in 2021, due to coming off an injury. But I plan on racing in '22. I am from the midwest and we also have tight technical tracks.. Blackhawk Farms, Grattan, ACC, Nelson Ledges. I currently race at an Amatuer level My first time on the track was June 2019 and I went straight to racing halfway through the year... A mixture of Covid stuff and crashing my brains out knocked me out of the top 3 (WERA Expert bump) at the last round of the North Central WERA stuff..

I like how the ZX10R doesn't chatter in the corners like my ZX6R did. I'm still trying to get used to the power and the electronics though.

I have been interested in trying the different steering cups out.. as well as switching to the KRT ECU. (currently just have the FT-ECU setup, but I find the lack of traction control settings a bit of a nuisance)

Going to finish tearing the bike down for maintenance this weekend. Sending the suspension out for a rebuild. (I have Traxxion Gas Charged forks and a Penske triple clicker)

keep us posted! I've been thinking about starting a thread too. I miss good forums content.
 

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I replied to your other thread regarding shock length.

I'm after the same thing you are, having the bike hold the corner better. I'm starting to shorten the shock more and more and it feels better which is opposite of what one would expect. I'm also on a 105 rear spring and will be dropping to a 10. 190lbs here.

This is on a Gen 6

Forks flush with top triple
10.5 fork springs, FKR105 carts
105 shock spring, Ohlins TTX
605mm swingarm length
Dunlop slicks 120/70 , 200/60
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I forgot to update this... I ended up dropping the rear a total of 5mm for a total length of 317mm shock and spacers which was a huge improvement, especially on one particular bumpy corner exit where the power was getting down and I was not getting bucked nearly as much. I'm able to throttle harder and longer there now which is awesome! Bike really felt great compared to what it was doing before in that section. Using MotoSpec my swingarm angle was pretty high at 13.5 where now it is at 12.9, I think this explains the traction and stability change on corner exit. I'm thinking I will keep going down to see what happens (and will try dropping front a bit too). Looking forward to getting back out there!

I'm starting to shorten the shock more and more and it feels better which is opposite of what one would expect.
I have heard of many people running the bike very high in the rear but I think we are both finding for ourselves that a shorter shock seems to work better. Those swingarm numbers indicate this as well, where ideal angle is said to be around 12.8 degrees. So you're about 7mm taller in front and stock height in rear? I am currently 11mm taller in front and 3mm longer on the shock (about 6mm higher in rear ride height). So similar balance to you but I'm running a bit taller. I will be testing lowering the front a bit and maybe the rear more also. One advantage I have is that I can get away with a higher front with the -0.5 degree head cups without slowing the turn-in too much. Your advantage is the 2mm more fork offset on the '21 triples. For what it's worth, a highly respected tuner in the southeast USA said that the '21 bike basically solved all of the Gen5 problems and they are running pretty close to stock geometry. Keep us posted on your testing and I will do the same.
 

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I forgot to update this... I ended up dropping the rear a total of 5mm for a total length of 317mm shock and spacers which was a huge improvement, especially on one particular bumpy corner exit where the power was getting down and I was not getting bucked nearly as much. I'm able to throttle harder and longer there now which is awesome! Bike really felt great compared to what it was doing before in that section. Using MotoSpec my swingarm angle was pretty high at 13.5 where now it is at 12.9, I think this explains the traction and stability change on corner exit. I'm thinking I will keep going down to see what happens (and will try dropping front a bit too). Looking forward to getting back out there!



I have heard of many people running the bike very high in the rear but I think we are both finding for ourselves that a shorter shock seems to work better. Those swingarm numbers indicate this as well, where ideal angle is said to be around 12.8 degrees. So you're about 7mm taller in front and stock height in rear? I am currently 11mm taller in front and 3mm longer on the shock (about 6mm higher in rear ride height). So similar balance to you but I'm running a bit taller. I will be testing lowering the front a bit and maybe the rear more also. One advantage I have is that I can get away with a higher front with the -0.5 degree head cups without slowing the turn-in too much. Your advantage is the 2mm more fork offset on the '21 triples. For what it's worth, a highly respected tuner in the southeast USA said that the '21 bike basically solved all of the Gen5 problems and they are running pretty close to stock geometry. Keep us posted on your testing and I will do the same.
It sounds kind of like the zx6r setup. I had that bike and I couldn't get that confident feeling in the turns with the rear raised up like everyone recommended. Was much better when I lowered my rear penske. Then it was much more predictable.

Seems like Kawa and Suzuki bikes tend to need a bit of rake adjustment for racing.
 

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For the record, those with gen 4 and gen 6 bikes, they run different linkages to the gen 5 so spring rates of shocks are not comparable. I ran a 14kg shock spring in my gen 4, but run a 13 in my gen 5 and the gen 6 needs a lighter rate again.

My set up is 3mm of the black fork tube showing above the triple clamp with kit steering bearings installed. I'm running 1.3 fork springs with custom valved K-Tech DDS Pro carts and 13kg spring on K-Tech DDS Pro shock, not sure how much longer than stock, but it's jacked up too high at the moment and I need to lower it a bit to gain a bit more stability over bumps and improve my edge grip. I'm 113kg, so just over 250lb.

My wife's set up on her gen 6 is 10.5 fork springs in K-Tech DDS Pro carts, with the forks 2.5 mm through and 10.5 spring on K-Tech DDS Pro shock and I think from memory is about 4mm longer than the stock shock. I'd have to check with our suspension guy, but the shock is the length K-Tech recommend with no shock mount spacers. She's 65kg, so 143lb.
 
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