[Hoshino Sato]

Hello guys, I recently put a PCV on my 2016 ZX10R, and after the installation the FI and CEL came on. I pull out the codes and got code 41 42 43 and 44, which are fuel injector 1 2 3 4 are mulfuntioning. The bike starts and runs just fine. I rechecked the connectors on the injectors and they are fine. Put everything back in, start it up and run it, still got same codes. I went to the dealer and had the codes cleared, but same things happened after a short distance of traveling. I even tried manually reset codes (from the owner’s manual), but it did not work. Any ideas? Thanks.

 

[Porschenut]

You need to flash the ECU to disable fault codes after doing smog work.

 

[Hoshino Sato]

Can I use the "ECU Reflash" system from the dealer to clear them?

 

[SkyDork]

A search would help you. :idea:

The manual clearing procedure is outlined here:
https://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f28/all-gens-so-your-fi-light-218666.html

Can I use the "ECU Reflash" system from the dealer to clear them?

There is no "ECU Reflash" system at any dealer. They can hook up the Kawasaki diagnostic tool, read and reset the FI errors, but that has nothing to do with reflashing it.

 

[SkyDork]

And why the hell would you install a PCV??? Those things are so 1998. :2bitchslap:

 

[Hoshino Sato]

I saw your post about resetting the code before and I followed the instruction but it did not work. The KDS v3 does have a function says “ECU reflash” but I did not touch it but cleared the code instead. And the code just pop out again after clearing them...

 

[Hoshino Sato]

I would go with Woolich if I can, but I live in Iowa and there is no shop which can do ECU reflash with Woolich, but there is a shop down DSM has a dyno and they can only do PCV tuning. I remember when I was looking for a tuner to tune my WRX-STI with COBB along with a custom tune, I had to go down to Chicago to find a tuner...

 

[Hoshino Sato]

And why the hell would you install a PCV??? Those things are so 1998.

<a href="http://Zx-10r.net/forum/images/smilies/smilies/icon_confused.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Confused" ></a>

First time using this website...

 

[SkyDork]

I would go with Woolich if I can, but I live in Iowa and there is no shop which can do ECU reflash with Woolich, but there is a shop down DSM has a dyno and they can only do PCV tuning. I remember when I was looking for a tuner to tune my WRX-STI with COBB along with a custom tune, I had to go down to Chicago to find a tuner...

The Woolich kit is so you can tune it yourself, in your garage, by yourself. The autotune kit allows that. Or you can change the maps yourself on the computer you connect to it. No need to take it to a tuner. Or you take it to a tuner with a dyno and make the changes yourself while there or based on the results of that.


Tuning with a PC only makes fueling changes. ALL the other stuff that can be accessed (ignition, per gearing, cooling system, traction control, engine braking, ETV, QS, autoblip, race mode, etc) are not able to be tuned with a PC. :headshake:

 

[Hoshino Sato]

I would go with Woolich if I can, but I live in Iowa and there is no shop which can do ECU reflash with Woolich, but there is a shop down DSM has a dyno and they can only do PCV tuning. I remember when I was looking for a tuner to tune my WRX-STI with COBB along with a custom tune, I had to go down to Chicago to find a tuner...

The Woolich kit is so you can tune it yourself, in your garage, by yourself. The autotune kit allows that. Or you can change the maps yourself on the computer you connect to it. No need to take it to a tuner. Or you take it to a tuner with a dyno and make the changes yourself while there or based on the results of that.


Tuning with a PC only makes fueling changes. ALL the other stuff that can be accessed (ignition, per gearing, cooling system, traction control, engine braking, ETV, QS, autoblip, race mode, etc) are not able to be tuned with a PC.

I understand that, and the reason that I want to “play” with the bike is I want the bike to run better without a CAT, not for racing (there is not many race-track in Iowa and public roads sucks in Iowa...). The stock map just sucks as well. Anyway, I will try again with the code-clearing process. The bike is running strong now but just without those Kawasaki川崎 functions...

 

[Hoshino Sato]

A search would help you. <a href="http://Zx-10r.net/forum/images/smilies/smilies/n.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Idea" ></a>

The manual clearing procedure is outlined here:
https://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f28/all-gens-so-your-fi-light-218666.html

Can I use the "ECU Reflash" system from the dealer to clear them?

There is no "ECU Reflash" system at any dealer. They can hook up the Kawasaki diagnostic tool, read and reset the FI errors, but that has nothing to do with reflashing it.

I have tried again with that “idle-run-cycle” procedure, and it did not work. Still got codes.

 

[SkyDork]

I have tried again with that “idle-run-cycle” procedure, and it did not work. Still got codes.

One of two things is happening then. You didn't follow the procedure exactly, or the error is still present. Remove the PCV to put it back to stock, chat the codes, and see if they are removed. If the error is still triggering the problem, clearing them at the dealer won't fix that. You have to make sure all the errors are fixed to then clear the code.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wheelz96]

If you eliminated the cat buy this...

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/servo-buddy-kawasaki-suzuki

This will eliminate your FI code when removing cat.

Or send ECU for reflash to Guhl, Schnitz, Woolich, or any other preferred bike tuning shops. Reflash will set you back 3-400 bucks but will clear all codes and open up autoblip, top speed restriction, disable pair valve, and other fun stuff.

 

[Hoshino Sato]

If you eliminated the cat buy this...

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/servo-buddy-kawasaki-suzuki

This will eliminate your FI code when removing cat.

Or send ECU for reflash to Guhl, Schnitz, Woolich, or any other preferred bike tuning shops. Reflash will set you back 3-400 bucks but will clear all codes and open up autoblip, top speed restriction, disable pair valve, and other fun stuff.

Already bought a servo-buddy and it is working. The codes are 41 42 43 44, which are fuel injectors 1 2 3 4. Looks like I have to go with Woolich kit...

 

[wheelz96]

You won't be dissapointed! Hope you get it sorted!

 

[tjg312]

Already bought a servo-buddy and it is working. The codes are 41 42 43 44, which are fuel injectors 1 2 3 4. Looks like I have to go with Woolich kit...

imo return the PCV and just rock the woolich. There's generic maps available too on the woolich mapshare program that you can use. It's a pretty badass system and works very similar to Cobb's except you have to do it all through a laptop instead of the access port. I ended up flashing the "Daemon tool" map on there and with my catless setup it seems to work really well and the difference is night and day. My problem is I can't find any dyno tuners that will flash woolich around here.. but I've been in the sti game too for awhile and these things aren't quite as picky with tunes as our subies are don't have to worry about cracking a ringland because your tune is slightly off..

if you know anything about tuning at all too the autotune system looks pretty intuitive and seems to pretty much do all the work itself.. but you'll likely need to do block off plates too otherwise your AFRs are gonna read all whacked out when the air pump system does it's thing.

 

[Hoshino Sato]

imo return the PCV and just rock the woolich. There's generic maps available too on the woolich mapshare program that you can use. It's a pretty badass system and works very similar to Cobb's except you have to do it all through a laptop instead of the access port. I ended up flashing the "Daemon tool" map on there and with my catless setup it seems to work really well and the difference is night and day. My problem is I can't find any dyno tuners that will flash woolich around here.. but I've been in the sti game too for awhile and these things aren't quite as picky with tunes as our subies are don't have to worry about cracking a ringland because your tune is slightly off..

if you know anything about tuning at all too the autotune system looks pretty intuitive and seems to pretty much do all the work itself.. but you'll likely need to do block off plates too otherwise your AFRs are gonna read all whacked out when the air pump system does it's thing.

Whats your subi pushes to the wheel?

 

[tjg312]

Whats your subi pushes to the wheel?

Last time I dynoed it with my old setup I made 380/360
Just finished putting in an IAG Stage 2 block after I cracked a ringland along with a blouch 3.0xtr and meth injection and hoping to make around 500 on this build