[Mike Jeffery]

was just wondering what options were out there for LED options for our bike? I was looking at changing the bulb to this one here https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/4000-Lumen-H7-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_86.html
I put these bulbs in my truck and I love them. but I wasn't sure if there was enough space in the housing to accommodate a LED bulb with a cooling fan on the back. I'm not afraid of making mods but I also don't want it to be ghetto. any insight would be appreciated, pictures, videos, etc.

 

[SkyDork]

No, there's not enough room in the housing for a bulb that big. And LED bulbs suck in projector housings not specifically designed for there use. They do not put out as much light energy or coverage range as HID or halogen bulbs do, and the cut-off beam is usually way too harsh. The are good in light enclosures designed for there use, but this bike is not. And they won't fit.

The only advantage of going through the effort of fitting them into the housing is to be able to tell people you have LED lights on there and not change the bulbs for 50,000 hours of use, then that might be worth it. If you're looking for actual light improvement then HID is still the bulb of choice for this light housing.

 

[Mike Jeffery]

Gotcha, any recommendations on an hid kit for this bike then? Also I didn't think this bike had the projector lenses/ housing like the gen 3 did?

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[SkyDork]

Gotcha, any recommendations on an hid kit for this bike then? Also I didn't think this bike had the projector lenses/ housing like the gen 3 did?

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No, it doesn't have beam projectors like the Gen 3 at all. But the mirrored back reflection area is the "projector" to orient the light spread properly. They're still technically projectors, just not in the same sense that everyone misuses the term. They aren't a focused beam like the Gen 3, but the purpose is still to reflect and project the beam pattern forward. :thumbsup:

The DDM Tuning kits are low cost, work well, and have served good for tons of people. You'll still have to modify the housing water/dust seals to work with these, but that's relatively easy and full-proof. And the 4300K color is the most vibrant and highest light output. But the 5000K color is pure white and close to the max output. Straying too far from that 4300K color will decrease the light output the farther away you go. 6000K color is a slight bluish tint to the pure white.

 

[Mike Jeffery]

Ok cool, thanks for the info. A little bit more insight if you can spare it, there are several options that I'm not familiar with. I assume d ont need tfhe adaptor cable since this is jisrr a straight h7 plug but the other 2 not so sure about. I don't think the bike has a canbus system to it either?

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[SkyDork]

This is all you need. You don't need the brackets or the other junk either. If you REALLY wanted the brackets, then get them, but you're better off using velcro or double-sided tape to mount the ballasts. Skip the 55 watters also. They are overkill since the 35w HID bulbs put out more light than a 55w halogen. 55w HID lights can sometimes melt the OEM harness unless you plan to wire them up with a remove relay for power.

And another thing, the bike does have a CANBus on it. Stands for Controller Area Network bus. It's basically a point-to-point serial communication protocol to allow different things to talk to the ECU and transmit data. On this bike ,the headlights aren't part of that network so you don't need any of that junk. Only the items with an asterisk next to them are required. The rest is optional or not needed based on what the kit is being used in. Click the ? next to the items on their site to read about what they're for.