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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys!! I have had my ZX10R for almost two years now and it was a track bike for most of the time but hardly got much time to ride it. Converted back to the street recently. Removed bazzaz as advised by quite a few mechanics. And the bike just did start. It ran perfectly fine on the track. The mechanic said it was something with throttle bodies and I bought a new one for him to install. Once installed, the bike turned on. But it idles at 3000 constantly. When I ride it, it rides fine. But doesn’t go below 3000 unless it passes 110+ degrees Celsius after which the bike drops to about a 1000 rpm. I can’t figure out what wrong. Please please help me!!!!
 

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:welcome:

The Gen 4 uses an idle speed control valve in the throttlebodies to control and adjust the speed. If the second set of TBs is doing the same thing, then the question is if the control valve was reused from the second set? Or did the second set of TBs come with it's own?

Sounds like the control valve is bad. Or the wiring that goes to it. Or the ECU that controls the valve isn't providing the proper output. ECU reflashed? If it's not, then you likely have a wiring issue from the ECU to the control valve.
 

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Hey buddy! Thank you so much for your response. The ECU is brand new cause apparently my old one got fried and kawasaki gave me a new one. The second TB is had it’s own sensor but I am guessing it’s some wiring error. I will be checking that. Do you think a vacuum leak can cause this problem? I have another bad feeling that my mechanic might have adjusted the bolt on the left of the throttle body to idle higher cause my bike just wouldn’t idle before it fried the ecu.
 

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A vacuum leak would typically cause an erratic idle and engine operation. I'm not sure what screw you say he adjusted on the left side of the TB. Each TB has a vacuum screw that is adjustable so they can be synchronized. But all 4 of them need to be properly adjusted, not just one. The race kit has a manual idle adjust screw. Is that what you're referring to?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, I am referring to the manual adjusting screw like the race kit. In the stock kit, you can unlock the lock nut, and use the allen key to adjust it. From what i read in another blog. I am wondering if the mechanic did that. Either way, I will be opening it myself and look through all the wiring and the hoses. Any key pointers to look at will be great. I built the bike myself and ran it for two years. Made a mistake trusting a local mechanic. Should have gone straight to the dealer... Thank you so much for your time. Do let me know if there are some specific things i should look into, might reduce my time in solving this.
 

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Yes, I am referring to the manual adjusting screw like the race kit. In the stock kit, you can unlock the lock nut, and use the allen key to adjust it. From what i read in another blog. I am wondering if the mechanic did that. Either way, I will be opening it myself and look through all the wiring and the hoses. Any key pointers to look at will be great. I built the bike myself and ran it for two years. Made a mistake trusting a local mechanic. Should have gone straight to the dealer... Thank you so much for your time. Do let me know if there are some specific things i should look into, might reduce my time in solving this.
The only thing I'd be able to give you advice on, is that screw is very sensitive. Especially given the minimal changes you're looking to do on to to drop it back from 3,000 to 1,150 RPM. Barely move the screw and see how it responds before making another change. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks a ton @SkyDork! @scout, the guy the did whatever, when I complained about my bike running fine before I gave it to him. He back fired and got aggressive. The reason I gave someone to work on my bike is because I have a full time job so I couldn’t do it myself, in Hong Kong we do not have garage space, it’s just parking lots and no one (workshop and mechanics) would be willing to share their tools to fix my own bike. Cause they rather get paid. So tadaaaaa, either way, I am going to dig into my bike this weekend and try my best to sort it. I know my bike inside out cause I built it myself but the problem wasn’t caused by me so I will have to dig in. Wish me luck! Thanks again!!
 

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Good luck with it Iride! Let us know how you make out in the end. :ayyy:
 

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Hey guys! Weekend didn’t go so well. I was planning to use the tools at my work place but on Friday, right before leaving, he decides to reject my request. I didn’t have tools to work with. So I had to use whatever I have at home. Got to the air box, after which I didn’t have any Allen keys to get the air box out. But I got to look at the throttle body stopper. It was a long thin screw with a stopper nut. Apparently, it not holding the throttle at all. And yet the idle is at 2500-3000 rpm. I really don’t understand what the problem is. The bike runs completely fine cause I test drove it, but at stop signs, the idle is at 3000 and the bike heats up really quick. It’s really annoying me now. I need to get the tools to open everything and figure it out. I hope someone can help me and let me know what could possibly be wrong.
 

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Are you looking at the right screw. There's two that look similar on the gen 4, you don't need to take the air box off at all to reach the proper screw. I usually just lift the tank a little bit And reach the lock nut from underneath on left side of bike. Then use allen to turn screw. I think 2.5 or 3mm allen turns it. It's the lower screw not upper
 

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Discussion Starter #13
YESSSSSS!!! I was looking at the wrong screw!!!!! I was just tired last time and probably neglected the right one! Either way, IT WORKS FINE NOW, i went last night to have a look again and borrowed all the tools from a friend to get it done!!!!! so fucking glad i got my love back! Rides perfectly fine now! Thanks a lot guys!!!! Thanks @ Skydork again for the great support and @97grnrs for the heads up!!!
 
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