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Discussion Starter #1
I've decided to document the process of fixing up this 2011 Zx10r that my brother and I bought in May 2020 (Australian Lockdown #1). We are in Melbourne and bought the bike, sight unseen from Sydney, nice and cheap:)

While we haven't owned a ZX10R before, we've had about 15 bikes between us, from 250s to my brother's 2007 R1 which he sold a while ago.

This bike has been ridden on the road (probably commuted on as it has 43,000 kms) and eventually crashed on the road. I think it must have been a decent crash, for the reasons you'll see below. From there, the Previous Owner decided to turn it into a 'track bike' and eventually sold it before running it on the track. I am really glad he did not use it after completing the track bike build because the way this guy put the bike together was DANGEROUS:(

So bit by bit, I'm taking it apart and putting it back together as best as I can. The plan is that it will do Road/Track Duties and potentially replace a get around bike (89 Honda Spada 250) and Track bike (07 CBR 600RR) that we currently own. We will see how we go!

Here we go! The story begins with cheap, chinese road fairings and front lights painted black and no other road parts on it (except for a horn).
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Discussion Starter #2
We managed to get the courier to swing through Canberra and pick up a great deal on some OEM fairings and parts. Most of what we needed to get it back on the road:)
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The Next thing I had to do was to build a workbench! I did that by breaking down 2 pallets and using the wood:)

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Next I decided to make a wired connector to plug in our trickle charger that I could access from under the rear seat cowl. I hadn't done anything like it before - it was fun!
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With that done, I had a go at putting the road stuff (lights and number plate bracket on the back of the bike. It went great! Unfortunately it uncovered another problem, the rear subframe is clearly a little twisted.
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Well, now I'm subscribed to this thread to see the process along the way. Good luck with your endeavor to bring it back to a better condition! That's always fun!

After looking over the pictures, I noticed a few things. The green wheel tape clashes with the red/black scheme. The exhaust pipe is really wide. The brake and clutch levers are angled way too high to be usable and comfortable. There are no pics with the green bodywork on it since the green is the best and fastest color and match the wheel tape. Pallet wood workbenches are a good idea. That rear subframe isn't bent. They all look like that down there and it has to do with the way the camera lens rotates differently on the south side of the hemisphere. ;) :p
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Haha I’m not so sure you got the physics right on the hemisphere thing but appreciate the enthusiasm:)
With the levers etc yes he had everything set very weird and wrong. The exhaust is WAY too loud even though it has a baffle inside so will be replacing the cat convertor to quiet it down and for the environment (I’m a greenie). Those first pics are from the day it Came off the truck.
Green bodywork will go on towards the end once the body is straight and once I know how it all goes together nicely. I’m hoping to sell the black/red plastics off. I’ll need to find some green tank fairings first.
Update:
As posted in another thread, the steering lock wasn’t engaging. After taking off the top triple clamp, I found that the washer that was supposed to be above the top triple was below, sitting on the (finger tight!!!) head stem adjusters. That addressed the steering lock issue which engages perfectly but uncovered the fact that something was not lining up when I went to replace the top triple. It looks like the lower triple clamp or one of the forks is slightly bent. So I jacked it up, and removed the forks and triple clamps to be checked by a friend at a local moto smash repair shop that I used to work part time at.
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I forgot a step -
Incredibly, the muffler was bolted onto the swingarm, at a small mount for the brake line!!
I ordered some parts from a guy in Western Australia: rear pegs, a quickshift sensor (which I thought would come with the QEM), catalytic converter box, and a black plastic piece that fits under the cowl latch which was broken on mine.

I was able to use the rear pegs to mount the muffler properly using bolts and fittings I had lying around. The pegs have been down the road so will need to be restored but will get to that later.

unfortunately I did not receive a QEM in the package, instead it came with another PCV, which we already had. So that Will be Listed for sale soon. And the sensor is a pull type, which means I can only use it for GP shifting. Now I’ll need to find a Gen 3 shift linkage to switch to GP shift too. Anyway, here’s a pic with the muffler mounted wrong and then properly!
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Incredibly, the muffler was bolted onto the swingarm, at a small mount for the brake line!!
ROFLMAO, that's the funniest thing I've seen for a long time ! Very fortunate indeed that the previous owner didn't get it to the track, you'd hope they would pick it up at scrutineering, but I'm not so sure. Good luck with the rebuild mate, I guess you blokes down in VIC have plenty of time wth the lockdown at the moment :(
 

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Thanks Greenman43. Scary stuff! Along with the finger tight head stem, I could imagine an almighty slide and tankslapper the first time he would’ve accelerated out of a turn! Thanks mate yep not much to do around here, and I’m waiting for the fork and triples before I can do much else. Maybe I’ll get bored and clean the brake pistons haha

haha ypyk_xau yesve creative!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Quick update. Picking up the forks and clamps tomorrow. Apparently they were straight... anyway I spent some time doing a totally unnecessary but very satisfying job. I polished the headers while the front wheel and forks were off. Next is that mangy cat box. Enjoy!
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Got the forks and triples back after being checked, all straight! Regreased the bearings and put it all back together, Using a torque wrench with some hex head sockets I picked up. Satisfying! While the wheel was off I cleaned the Front brake pistons, used a specific tool to grip the pistons which made it easy to pull them out a bit and turn them to clean all sides:) here’s a pic for the before and after cleaning the first piston.
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Looking good, how did you get the headers and brake pistons so clean? Also what tool si this that you used to pul the pistons out with? I’m doing my fork seals soon and want to clean my pistons while I am at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looking good, how did you get the headers and brake pistons so clean? Also what tool si this that you used to pul the pistons out with? I’m doing my fork seals soon and want to clean my pistons while I am at it.
Hey mate, thanks:) for the headers I used a simple metal polish and a rag.
Brake pistons can be cleaned with WD40 and wet/dry sandpaper 1200 grit or higher. I started by using 2000 grit and then realised the buildup came of just with a rag and WD 40 so I did the rest like that. The pistons seem to have a smooth coating so it cleans easier than stainless steel.

I’ll put a pic of the tool below- you can see the brand and part number on it. The ends are metal so I used a thin rag over the end to protect the pistons -to clarify I didn’t remove the pistons completely (although it would be possible to with the tool). I pulled them out far Enough to clean the buildup and used the tool to spin the pistons to get to the other side.
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Thanks a lot mate! I’ll look into the tool. Following your progress with interest. I have a 2012, had it from new, things are just starting to need to be fixed. Nothing serious so far, just had to rebuild the front master brake cylinder, it was an easy job.
 

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If you have re-built the master already, then in truth if your taking the calipers off you probably would be better stripping and rebuilding those with new seals, why do have a job ? This is a titled "Re-Build" come on do em properly and be rest assured for the future. (y)
 

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I’m doing the fork oil seals, not the calipers, they just need a clean while I’m there, they still seem fine. The master was very odd, found I had no brakes at all while getting the bike out the garage, luckily!
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Each to their own!
Update. Decided to take the rear wheel off, clean up the rear caliper and check everything out/give it a clean. Glad I did! I took off the sprocket and gave that a clean and cleaned up the rear wheel. That’s when I noticed a nice little bend of the rear wheel lip! So I’ll have to see if a place in Melbourne can straighten it out. It’s not too bad so I’m hopeful:) man it must’ve been a decent crash!
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At least the sprocket is clean haha
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Update - spent some time cleaning out 9 years of chain crud from the chain guides and sprocket covers, then got to straightening the rear subframe. I used to see my old boss do this but was the first time trying in my own. Went great and was a real buzz! I just used a bar with a broom handle on it and a spirit level. Nice and straight now. Got a quote for $200 to straighten out the rear wheel which seems a bit steep so will have to wait and see. Also made a temporary muffler baffle with a lid of a spray can just to pass the roadworthy check so getting closer:)
Also have the tank fairings in the mail and it’s time for a new air filter! Looks like it’s never been changed!
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