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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I took my damper apart to solder up the needle holes but when I went to re-fit yesterday one of the tiny ball bearings and the spring went flying, are these necessary? I cant find where to buy replacements online.

Also, from looking rebuild threads, if 'im looking at the right side then they show a hex socket opening one of the ends to bleed but mine is flat with no hex socket, can I still bleed it without taking that out?



http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392114&thumb=1

Picture of mine is on the newspaper and the other 2 are from rebuild how to's

http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392122&thumb=1
http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392130&thumb=1
 

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The tiny ball bearings and springs are there for the detents on the clicker and to keep the needle from moving out of adjustment. They are about $5 worth of parts...

The newer dampers like you have use the spring charged design instead of the sponge type with the hex screw.
 

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My apologies I was looking at the example pic on the bottom while typing that (which is almost comedic because it's my picture)

The one with the flat plug and the spring underneath is the newer design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Funny you notice your own picture hah
Circlip, I would of never of even noticed that.
Just got finished playing around with it, how do i get the valve out underneath the flatplug and spring though to bleed properly? I bled just using the single hole where the needle fits and pumping for now but Im sure their is small bubbles still in.
 

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There is a 2 piece plunger under that cap & spring and beneath that is the check valve that requires a really special tool to remove.
 

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how do i get the valve out underneath the flatplug and spring though to bleed properly?
Dont know about new type, but with old (sponge) type hard shaft stroking pops out the valve. Maybe this will not work with new type since LDH said "really special tool" for this purpose.

I bled just using the single hole where the needle fits and pumping for now but Im sure their is small bubbles still in.
You need to figure out how to get air out from both sides of check valve (if not taken out) and when all is assembled, then pressure piston should be mid stroke.
I'm really skeptical that pumping will yield good result, correct vacuum bleeding or assembling everything submerged in oil is better.

I would solder and assemble the needle side and send it to good Ohlins shop for proper vacuum bleeding. They can replace with solid needle and matching seat ring too.
 

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I personally wouldn't bleed one without doing the internal work myself and knowing it was clean/empty. If someone just comes in with a damper you don't know what oil is in it or has been in it etc and when you put it on the vacuum you could contaminate your fresh oil with who knows what...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Searched ebay looking for different types of pliers that look that they could do the job but found nothing. Their is an Ohlins suspension specialist not far from me so I may have to give them a ring to see if they will do it, didn't want to take it to a shop at first since I'm a tight arse with money. Needs to be done properly though I guess before take it to the track.
 
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