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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, well i got a problem here with my bike. It throws up a FI code of 54, which says its the #4 coil. Well i checked it out by the service manual and all the parts, coil and wiring check out good. So the only thing left that it could be is the ECU. Has anyone else had theirs go bad? I rarely hear that they do, so I'm kinda skeptical. But like I said, everything else checks out good, and I don't know of anyone else around me that has a gen3 bike that I could borrow their ecu to try it and make sure that thats the problem.
Also, does anyone know where I can get one, besides ebay. Im also considering going aftermarket here too. Anyone know of any good used ones out there (oem and aftermarket)?
Right now its just used strictly a track bike, but it may be a road bike if I can find a clean title for it.
Thanks for any help that anyone can provide.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
One more question, Once the problem gets fixed does the FI and the red light go out immediately or does it take a few complete cycles for it to clear. My Triumph takes 5 complete heat cycles to clear the 'check engine' light.
 

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Ok, well i got a problem here with my bike. It throws up a FI code of 54, which says its the #4 coil. Well i checked it out by the service manual and all the parts, coil and wiring check out good. So the only thing left that it could be is the ECU. Has anyone else had theirs go bad? I rarely hear that they do, so I'm kinda skeptical. But like I said, everything else checks out good, and I don't know of anyone else around me that has a gen3 bike that I could borrow their ecu to try it and make sure that thats the problem.
Also, does anyone know where I can get one, besides ebay. Im also considering going aftermarket here too. Anyone know of any good used ones out there (oem and aftermarket)?
Right now its just used strictly a track bike, but it may be a road bike if I can find a clean title for it.
Thanks for any help that anyone can provide.
Try to trace the wire for #4 coil back to the ECU harness main connector and verify the wire is properly seated in that big connector. I had the same problem but it was both #3 and #4 Open or short codes. Both wires were loose at the ECU harness.

I cannot tell you whcih wire it is off my head, but if you need me to look it up for you I can. What you may find is the wire is pushed in, but not all the way.

Have you checked that? Worth a shot. Has happened to numerous members.

Attached is a pic of what I am talking about but these wires in the pic may not be the exact one you need for coil #4. Just an example of how they will pull out because they are not latched in all the way.

Generally this occurs when the ECU has been messed around with or left dangling on the harness like someone would do when building a "track" bike like yours.
 

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One more question, Once the problem gets fixed does the FI and the red light go out immediately or does it take a few complete cycles for it to clear. My Triumph takes 5 complete heat cycles to clear the 'check engine' light.
Once fault is fixed code immediately clears.
 

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Looks like your looking for a BK/O wire color for #4 stick coil.

That would be a solid black wire with ORANGE "stripe" down it. Look for that wire at the ECU harness and push and pull on it with a small pair of needle nose pliars and see if it is seated and latched correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the wire was not in all the way and a few of them had the coating on the wire stripped a bit. I think it was from the high side that previous owner had on it before i bought it. I taped each wire up individually and pushed them in all the way, and verified that they were in all the way. The code still shows up.
Could the wire have shorted out to the frame and screwed up something in the ecu?
Im left thinking that this is the only thing left it could be. i removed the #3 and #4 coil wires from the plug and switched them around, thinkin if it was the coil or something in the wiring it would throw a code for the #3 coil. But it still only showed up as the #4 coil having the problem.
 

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Try using an ohm meter and ohm from the connector at the #4 coil to the ECU connector. You will need to stick a small piece of wire down into the ECU connector to touch the ohm meter leads to. Set Ohm meter to "beep" mode and see if you get a beep thru the entire wire from the #4 coil connector to the ECU connector. Sounds like the wire is still open, especially considering all the trauma it has suffered.

Thats the best diagnosis I can do over the net based on my previous experience. If the path is good down the correct wire, then another ECU would be the next try. I doubt it though. Good luck with it.
 

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I would try ohming out the #3 coil wire first, just to get a feel for the setup of your ohm meter, to see it work, or hear it beep, then try the #4 wire. You may have to experiment with something small to stick inside the ECU connector since the point of the Ohm meter lead will be to large to reach inside the ECU connector. Thats why I would try it on one of the good coil wires first, to test your hook up with your meter, hear it beep, then know what your looking for when you go to the Black with orange stripe wire. Kinda like a dry run.
 

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I would try ohming out the #3 coil wire first, just to get a feel for the setup of your ohm meter, to see it work, or hear it beep, then try the #4 wire. You may have to experiment with something small to stick inside the ECU connector since the point of the Ohm meter lead will be to large to reach inside the ECU connector. Thats why I would try it on one of the good coil wires first, to test your hook up with your meter, hear it beep, then know what your looking for when you go to the Black with orange stripe wire. Kinda like a dry run.
If you don't get it figured out, I have an 08 ECU, that was in good working condition when I pulled it off my bike, I'll sell it to ya cheap. Just PM me if you end up needing it.
 

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Just checked the wire running from the connector to the coil and it is good.
Are you sure it is plugged into the correct hole at the ECU connector? Reason I ask is you said several of them have been out of the connector.

If it is in the correct hole, then your original thought to try another ECU may be next.

Seems like someone in this thread was willing to loan one also.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Are you sure it is plugged into the correct hole at the ECU connector? Reason I ask is you said several of them have been out of the connector.

If it is in the correct hole, then your original thought to try another ECU may be next.

Seems like someone in this thread was willing to loan one also.
It was in the correct hole the bottom far left one. I pulled the holder of the wires back a bit to see where they actually go and then pushed in the wires all the way to ensure it was indeed bottoming out.
Thanks for all your help.
Once I do get an ecu I'll post an update on here to let everyone know what I found, good or bad.
 

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do you have power at coil connector with key on, did you put a test light across coil connector spin motor does light flicker. clear ecm code, disconnect postive cable for a few minutes. swap coil from another cylinder like #3 and #4 and see if problem/codes change cylinder with coil. a coil is more likely to fail than a ecm and/or wire pullout. does injector for #4 inject, check with test light across injector terminal spin motor ,does it flicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
do you have power at coil connector with key on, did you put a test light across coil connector spin motor does light flicker. clear ecm code, disconnect postive cable for a few minutes. swap coil from another cylinder like #3 and #4 and see if problem/codes change cylinder with coil. a coil is more likely to fail than a ecm and/or wire pullout. does injector for #4 inject, check with test light across injector terminal spin motor ,does it flicker.
I have power at the coil, swapped #3 and #4, tested it while turning it over, disconnected battery terminal. All of these checked out. I finally got frustrated and was about to call it a night, when I decided to try and start it just to make sure it still runs and to check the coolant level, as I had to swap out a pipe that was crushed. It fired right up, i was checking the level, when i looked up at the instrument cluster the FI and the red light was off :dontknow:
I have absolutely no idea what happened or what i did to get it to clear. I wish I did in-case it happens again. I guess I'll chock this one up to the bike gods having fun playing with me for now. They must have seen my frustration and said 'I think he's had enough for now' lol.
Thanks again for all the help. Im really glad I found this site.
 

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Probably as MagicMavis said, it was some loose wires, pushing/messing with them fixed it. Hope is all good. :thumbsup:
 
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