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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Valve seal or 2 i reckon mate<a href="http://Zx-10r.net/forum/images/ZX-10R_net_2015/smilies/tango_face_crying.png" border="0" alt="" title="Crying" >:)</a>
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Valve seal/guide
I pulled out the plugs and they have some oil on the threads and carbon on top. I was thinking maybe the piston oil ring is worn. So this is the deal. I need this bike to last me this whole season at the track, will this problem get worse in time? What can I do to slow it down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also I forgot to mentioned. This bike was sitting in back of a yard for almost 2 years without starting. four season's sitting outside in new York city climate. Could it been neglecting the bike damage the valves? I bought the bike this way I have no idea if it was doing this before the bike was sitting in a backyard. I got this bike up and running last week I was hoping within time of running bike it will clear up and valves will start to seat and seal correctly
 

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I pulled out the plugs and they have some oil on the threads and carbon on top. I was thinking maybe the piston oil ring is worn. So this is the deal. I need this bike to last me this whole season at the track, will this problem get worse in time? What can I do to slow it down?
FWIW, I have never seen mechanical engine issues get better over time, only worse. How much and in how long are variables I could only guess at. Letting anything sit for an extended period of time exposed to the elements can and will cause issues.
 

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I pulled out the plugs and they have some oil on the threads and carbon on top. I was thinking maybe the piston oil ring is worn. So this is the deal. I need this bike to last me this whole season at the track, will this problem get worse in time? What can I do to slow it down?
My first thought was piston rings. You're getting blow-by and burning oil (??) Rings may seal up a bit better once warm im guessing. Will only get worse if so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I pulled out the plugs and they have some oil on the threads and carbon on top. I was thinking maybe the piston oil ring is worn. So this is the deal. I need this bike to last me this whole season at the track, will this problem get worse in time? What can I do to slow it down?
FWIW, I have never seen mechanical engine issues get better over time, only worse. How much and in how long are variables I could only guess at. Letting anything sit for an extended period of time exposed to the elements can and will cause issues.
I pretty much knew that was gonna be the answer I'm just disappointed with the bike. Previous owner is a dummy for leaving the bike neglected outside for so long..smh. so a good used cylinder head should fix this problem or rebuild the valves, what ya think?
 

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We all different in what we would do, me I like tearing them down so I would turn the negative into a positive, I'd have the head off valve seats cut with a nice bit of porting I'd deck the head with a thin gasket fit all new valve seals & through some bigger cams with springs get a void filter & system a good tune with flash & go ride happy! You gotta get that head off even if it's rings you gotta see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
We all different in what we would do, me I like tearing them down so I would turn the negative into a positive, I'd have the head off valve seats cut with a nice bit of porting I'd deck the head with a thin gasket fit all new valve seals & through some bigger cams with springs get a void filter & system a good tune with flash & go ride happy! You gotta get that head off even if it's rings you gotta see.
That's a good idea but I don't know any reputable motorcycle machine shops around my area that would do that work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here's probably your best chance for a shout out on locals to recommend a good shop. Money wise a foot valve job and decking the head will make the bike much more livelier after a tune.
I maybe talking to the wrong people at shop, shop told me I'm better off getting a used motor it will cost me less, but getting a used motor I have no idea how it was taken care of and I may end up back to square one.. smh
 

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Honestly it depends on how much you got to spend, if you want/have the funds to rebuild your current engine you would be able to do some upgrades to the engine, or you could buy another used engine to install and hold onto your current one to re-build it at a later date.

Shop I take my bike to recommended I replace the whole engine on mine too when one of the valve retainers let go. I ended up buying a good head off the facebook zx10r group and threw it on. cost a whopping $250 and a little more for shims and such, can say I'm happy with it and now I know a little bit about doing valve clearances since I did it myself.

I had the engine replaced in my old ZX6R by the same shop before I had the 10r and I was happy with it, no issues. most times if you let the shop deal with it they'll at least make sure the used engine is good, I know my shop does at least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Honestly it depends on how much you got to spend, if you want/have the funds to rebuild your current engine you would be able to do some upgrades to the engine, or you could buy another used engine to install and hold onto your current one to re-build it at a later date.

Shop I take my bike to recommended I replace the whole engine on mine too when one of the valve retainers let go. I ended up buying a good head off the facebook zx10r group and threw it on. cost a whopping $250 and a little more for shims and such, can say I'm happy with it and now I know a little bit about doing valve clearances since I did it myself.

I had the engine replaced in my old ZX6R by the same shop before I had the 10r and I was happy with it, no issues. most times if you let the shop deal with it they'll at least make sure the used engine is good, I know my shop does at least.
This is what the plugs looked like when I took em out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Honestly it depends on how much you got to spend, if you want/have the funds to rebuild your current engine you would be able to do some upgrades to the engine, or you could buy another used engine to install and hold onto your current one to re-build it at a later date.

Shop I take my bike to recommended I replace the whole engine on mine too when one of the valve retainers let go. I ended up buying a good head off the facebook zx10r group and threw it on. cost a whopping $250 and a little more for shims and such, can say I'm happy with it and now I know a little bit about doing valve clearances since I did it myself.

I had the engine replaced in my old ZX6R by the same shop before I had the 10r and I was happy with it, no issues. most times if you let the shop deal with it they'll at least make sure the used engine is good, I know my shop does at least.
Also these bike shop's charge a fortune when it comes to intensive motor work on a motorcycle, it's not a dam car! I do most work myself but as far installing a head I would leave that up to someone with experience. How does that work, I see lots of cylinder heads for sale but the millage on them is crazy, I read one had 38k miles and is selling for $350. Does millage really matter on a cylinder head? What's to look for wear on cylinder head, components like valve, seals, scaring on the metal? What questions should I ask the seller?
 

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would not give up on that engine yet. u need to do some basic tests/mods first. very hard to damage/hurt oil or any piston rings. pull the crankcase breather hose from airbox and crank and warm up, look for any oil smoke or excessive blowby indicating rings. vent that crankcase hose to atmosphere to remove any oil mist from entering airbox/combustion chamber, plug that hose connection at airbox. on decel very strong vacum in exhaust system that activates pair valves to introduce any oil present in box into exhaust, plug that airbox pair valve hose off with object pushed into hose clamped with hose clamp to secure, just slip hose back on box. u can pull the airbox lid, oprn throttle plates and visually inspect intake valves/seats with good led light for corossion damage from moisture. also leaking int valve seals will leave heavy deposits on int valves themselves. compression test in order to determine compression balance between cyl's. up to spec/ pretty close indicates valve clereances are ok. what i see looking at plugs is primarily a fueling problem more than oil. all are affected. improper fueling/plugs running that rich will cause black/blue exhaust smoke. sitting for 2 years with fuel, get ur injectors professionally cleaned/flowed. dirty inj's squirt fuel, dont spray or atomize for complete burn, as ur plugs indicate. recommend proflow technologies, new port richey, fl.. about $100/quick turnaround. dont think head/basic engine ur problem. do these simple mods/tests, install a clean set of injectors, test ride it like u stole it a few minutes and ck those plugs/smoking problem again, believe this will get u pretty straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
would not give up on that engine yet. u need to do some basic tests/mods first. very hard to damage/hurt oil or any piston rings. pull the crankcase breather hose from airbox and crank and warm up, look for any oil smoke or excessive blowby indicating rings. vent that crankcase hose to atmosphere to remove any oil mist from entering airbox/combustion chamber, plug that hose connection at airbox. on decel very strong vacum in exhaust system that activates pair valves to introduce any oil present in box into exhaust, plug that airbox pair valve hose off with object pushed into hose clamped with hose clamp to secure, just slip hose back on box. u can pull the airbox lid, oprn throttle plates and visually inspect intake valves/seats with good led light for corossion damage from moisture. also leaking int valve seals will leave heavy deposits on int valves themselves. compression test in order to determine compression balance between cyl's. up to spec/ pretty close indicates valve clereances are ok. what i see looking at plugs is primarily a fueling problem more than oil. all are affected. improper fueling/plugs running that rich will cause black/blue exhaust smoke. sitting for 2 years with fuel, get ur injectors professionally cleaned/flowed. dirty inj's squirt fuel, dont spray or atomize for complete burn, as ur plugs indicate. recommend proflow technologies, new port richey, fl.. about $100/quick turnaround. dont think head/basic engine ur problem. do these simple mods/tests, install a clean set of injectors, test ride it like u stole it a few minutes and ck those plugs/smoking problem again, believe this will get u pretty straight.
Thanks for that information! I'm gonna perform that test. Thanks again
 
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