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Discussion Starter #1
Gosh, two days of riding weather and I'm at 1.000 km (600 miles) already. So it need to do the 600 mile check and third oil change. The whole thing seems obvious except how to lift the front end unweighting the wheel for a suspension check. I have front and rear stands and a flat jack which works as a bike platform. I'm afraid to using the jack because the pipes run under the bike. I believe that lifting the bike by placing the jack under the pipes (with the chin fairings removed) would crush them. I don't feature buying new Ti pipes!

So how do folks here lift the front of the bike keeping it unweighted so as to be able to inspect the front suspension? I sure hate to have to pull the pipes to do this simple chore which is the obvious solution. Also any tips of what to look for on this service beyond what's in the manual would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, and over in BMW land, folks don't use synth oil until 12k miles or even more due to the legend that the synth will prevent break in. What's the opinion here? TIA.
 

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slide said:
Gosh, two days of riding weather and I'm at 1.000 km (600 miles) already. So it need to do the 600 mile check and third oil change. The whole thing seems obvious except how to lift the front end unweighting the wheel for a suspension check. I have front and rear stands and a flat jack which works as a bike platform. I'm afraid to using the jack because the pipes run under the bike. I believe that lifting the bike by placing the jack under the pipes (with the chin fairings removed) would crush them. I don't feature buying new Ti pipes!

So how do folks here lift the front of the bike keeping it unweighted so as to be able to inspect the front suspension? I sure hate to have to pull the pipes to do this simple chore which is the obvious solution. Also any tips of what to look for on this service beyond what's in the manual would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, and over in BMW land, folks don't use synth oil until 12k miles or even more due to the legend that the synth will prevent break in. What's the opinion here? TIA.
Wow thats alot of oil changes. I thought I did alot.

What do you want to inspect on the front suspension?

I think if you have any issues with the front end I think you would know it.


However if you really do want to lift your bike up buy a motorcycle jack. I bought one for $150 or so and it comes with all kind of attachments that help to fit it to the bike without damange.

All and all the bike is well put together and there are not alot of things that need attention.

I ride my bike. I have an American Chopper that needs tons of attention inorder to ride it alot. That is one of the reasons that it stays in my garage while my 10 gets to go out all the time.

Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did an oil change at 60 miles then at 200. I figure to get the metal particles out. After this change, I will do them at 3,000 miles. I'm not fond of oil changes, but I figure the metal running around in there can't be good. I also got some cheap oil suitable for break in, but my normal stuff is Mobil red cap.

I saw the tool in the manual for raising the front end. I was hoping someone had a clever idea instead so I don't pay the money. I guess I could get a scissors jack and weld some ears on it which I may do.

I have no symptoms of front end problems. The manual calls for this as part of the 600 mile service and I think it a good idea along with checking all fasteners which I'll do too.

The jack I have is a motorcycle one. I lift my DRZ and my BMW with it, but they have side pipes. There is no way I can lift the 10R with this jack unless I take the headers off. It has two rails which act as a platform for a bike, but of course supporting the bike by those fragile Ti headers would flatten them.

OTOH, I may just take it to the dealer to get this done. I'm not too enthusiastic about that altho the dealer does fine work. I just prefer to do my own. I'm not a fussy rider / fixer. I'd rather ride than wrench, but I also am going awfully fast on this machine not to make sure all is 100% right.
 

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slide said:
I did an oil change at 60 miles then at 200. I figure to get the metal particles out. After this change, I will do them at 3,000 miles. I'm not fond of oil changes, but I figure the metal running around in there can't be good. I also got some cheap oil suitable for break in, but my normal stuff is Mobil red cap.

I saw the tool in the manual for raising the front end. I was hoping someone had a clever idea instead so I don't pay the money. I guess I could get a scissors jack and weld some ears on it which I may do.

I have no symptoms of front end problems. The manual calls for this as part of the 600 mile service and I think it a good idea along with checking all fasteners which I'll do too.

The jack I have is a motorcycle one. I lift my DRZ and my BMW with it, but they have side pipes. There is no way I can lift the 10R with this jack unless I take the headers off. It has two rails which act as a platform for a bike, but of course supporting the bike by those fragile Ti headers would flatten them.

OTOH, I may just take it to the dealer to get this done. I'm not too enthusiastic about that altho the dealer does fine work. I just prefer to do my own. I'm not a fussy rider / fixer. I'd rather ride than wrench, but I also am going awfully fast on this machine not to make sure all is 100% right.
WOW..........

Did you bought some Russian bike or what?!?!?
Metal parts in engine??? Hu that would be a mess if they really sold ya bike with that kind of hp and you would have metal parts in it.
I think it was on this or another forum where guy put his oil out at 50 miles and did some filtering and so on, only to find that none of metal parts were flowing in that oil.
That was an old story that has nothing to do with todays manufactoring metods used.
Todays engines are manufactured with alot less tolerances then ever to produce that kind of hp and you will not find any parts flowing unless something is wrong with engine.
So just ride the thing and dont listen too much, otherwise there will be alot of strange noices comin from engine.
 

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I jacked up the front of my bike using the stock pipes but I put a thin board under them to stop them from getting scratched up.

It WILL hold without crushing the pipes, trust me. Now I probably won't do this on my aftermarket system......

J
 

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Discussion Starter #8
SP8 said:
This is how I do it..............

I don't see where the front stand hits the bike. Does it touch the bike on the bottom of the forks like my front stand?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
a said:
WOW..........

Did you bought some Russian bike or what?!?!?
Metal parts in engine??? Hu that would be a mess if they really sold ya bike with that kind of hp and you would have metal parts in it.
I think it was on this or another forum where guy put his oil out at 50 miles and did some filtering and so on, only to find that none of metal parts were flowing in that oil.
That was an old story that has nothing to do with todays manufactoring metods used.
Todays engines are manufactured with alot less tolerances then ever to produce that kind of hp and you will not find any parts flowing unless something is wrong with engine.
So just ride the thing and dont listen too much, otherwise there will be alot of strange noices comin from engine.
No, it's all Japanese. I didn't see any metal running around in there when I did the change aside from a few particles the size of dust. I think if you really examined the oil yourself from that first change, let's say filtering it, you too would see some metal flakes. It's not just the engine, but the transmission too wearning in. Did you do your first oil change? Did you look carefully at the oil?

Let me ask you this. If your bike runs so cleanly that there is nothing bad in the oil. why did KHI bother with an oil filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
prebancolt said:
I jacked up the front of my bike using the stock pipes but I put a thin board under them to stop them from getting scratched up.

It WILL hold without crushing the pipes, trust me. Now I probably won't do this on my aftermarket system......

J
Hmm, I suppose I can try this slowly on my bike to see if I can get away with it too. You did give me an idea. I think I can set two 2 x 6 pieces of board on edge on the jack spaced so they fit between the headers. Then when I jack the bike up, the 2 x 6's will move between the headers and lift the bike by the engine. This technique will work with any header so it'll also work with your expensive after maket pipes too.

I'm skeptical about after market headers. I mean we have Ti headers already so what can Yosh or Akra or others bring that we already don't have? I can see a s/o but what do you expect from the full system that a s/o can't do?
 

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slide said:
No, it's all Japanese. I didn't see any metal running around in there when I did the change aside from a few particles the size of dust. I think if you really examined the oil yourself from that first change, let's say filtering it, you too would see some metal flakes. It's not just the engine, but the transmission too wearning in. Did you do your first oil change? Did you look carefully at the oil?

Let me ask you this. If your bike runs so cleanly that there is nothing bad in the oil. why did KHI bother with an oil filter?
i did change my oil first time and checkit through paper filter. and i guess every litle dust particle was in bike filter couse on paper filter there was no metal flakes.....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
a said:
i did change my oil first time and checkit through paper filter. and i guess every litle dust particle was in bike filter couse on paper filter there was no metal flakes.....
I saw none on my 2nd oil change and will look again now that I have 1.000 km. My guess most of the metal comes from the transmission and it will vary depending upon manufacturing tolerances.
 

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slide said:
SP8 said:
This is how I do it..............

I don't see where the front stand hits the bike. Does it touch the bike on the bottom of the forks like my front stand?
The stands don't touch the forks at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the link. I'm going to try to adapt my bike jack using 2 x 6's first and then see if that works. I already have a front stand which hits the forks so I really can't see getting another although IMO, the bulldog is a much better design than mine which grabs at the botton of the fork leg. I may be able to return the front stand as the dealer threw in a front and rear stand with the 10R purchase. They're brand new, but since they were part of the deal, they may not be returnable.

Well, live and learn.
 
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