Joined
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156 Posts
Hey everyone this is my first thread and I wanted to drop in and say hello!:hello:
I have had trouble keeping temps down on my bike. I have seen temps that creep up to 240+ at stop lights with 50/50 coolant mix. Here in Las Vegas things get hot especially if you cruise the strip(slow speeds and hot asphalt)! Once I get going it is fine and cools to 190 or so. Because of this I know there is no other probs with my bike. I have tried the radiator flush, water wetter, and currently engine ice which has helped keep temps at bay but it still ends up @ MID-230+ and will go to 240+ if I let her sit...
.
My buddy Mark and I decided to install a second fan to cure the problem. I have looked into the switch install on the stock fan and muzzys upgrade but by reading peoples responses and myself not thinking it will do anything I passed.
Since I have finished the second fan it is nothing short of amazing! Temps never get passed 212 and begin to drop until fans kick off after sitting for 20 mins on the hot Vegas strip or after exiting a highway and stopping in traffic after a long out of town ride. After buying a used 04 fan off Ebay for $20 shipped we got the part and decided to mount it on the inside of the radiator kinda next to the stock fans location but on the other side obviously.
Here is a step by step install with pics on how you guys can solve your cooling probs forever and stop wasting your money on expensive engine ice (although it helps 8 degrees or so)! etc etc.
PLEASE KEEP IN MIND that this is going to take some figuring out by you and you will have to use some creativity and mechanical skillz. There are several ways you can run your wiring but Mark is a certified Electrician and Mechanic and this is the RIGHT way to hook it up. OPTION 1: We chose to have the new fan kick on when the original one does using a relay and new supply from battery direct with inline fuse to take the start up hit and continuous feed. The stock fan wiring(to the fan) is cheesy and will not handle the extra power load of another fan by itself. OPTION 2: You can run a positive line from the battery with an inline fuse into a toggle and then ground the toggle, but i did not want to have to deal with switching it on and off or forgetting to switch it off. You can run a small led light and mount it by the speedometer/tach to tell you that it is on.
Once all hooked up we used a voltmeter contacted the battery with bike running at IDLE. We were showing 14.2 volts with one HID light running (I run HIDS) which is voltage from factory:thumbsup: . When Fans kicked voltage went down to 13.5 volts with one HID still plenty of charge to battery( over 12v). When Highbeam HID and running HID were both on with Fans running voltage went to 12.9(still ample charging supply to battery from stator). Conclusion NO WORRIES about charging system. Hopefully no long term stator wear but we cant see it.
1. ITEMS NEEDED: preferably a stock 1st gen FAN, 4 prong 20 amp relay, inline mini fuse, 10 amp mini fuse, INSULATED connectors, about 15 feet of 12 ga. wire from Auto Zone or parts store, crimping tool, snips, drill and tools etc., miscelaneous screws, aluminum bar stock from home depot or any metal will do for lower radiator bracket.
2. make sure bike is cool
3. secure bike (I used Marks pro pneumatic lift which is awesome)!
4. Remove mid and lower fairings BOTH SIDES!
5. Remove bolt from lower radiator support radiator to frame connection.
6. Pull radiator forward 3" and insert new fan on right side of the bike. There are fan mounts on the radiator already in place on the radiator> right side the fan will mount directly to these. roatate or clock the fan 180 degrees so the two shorter bracket arms are attached to the bottom mounts. You might have to slightly bend the mounts to get the fan to sit correct against the radiator so the fan spins freely and it clears the header and engine sensor coming off the engine on right side. Fasten the fan to the radiator with bolts and nuts that you have.
7. Now you have the fan fastened securely, make sure it rotates freely and does not touch the radiator fins.
8. To remount the lower radiator to frame we used aluminum bar stock as an extender which we cut to 3" and drilled two holes. fasten with bolts and nuts. One hole to lower radiator mount the other to the radiator engine mount bracket (see pic).
9. You want to T crimp off the Blue(+) wire( going into the original 1st fan) after the connector and run wire to relay #86, this will be the trigger wire. Use INSULATED CONNECTORS on relay block. Mount relay on right side upper inner fairing with one fastener.
10. Attach wire from (+) terminal on battery, attach an inline fuse holder, run wire to #30 on relay.
11. Cut connector OFF of NEW 2nd FAN run black wire to ground on engine(see pic) and a wire from engine ground to ground the relay #85. Blue(+) wire off 2nd fan goes to relay #87 (see pic).
13. Zip tie all wires, make sure they are out of the way of the headset or any excessive heat. Make sure no wires will chaffe anywhere.
14. once wires are all connected Properly (if needed see relay wiring diagram on box) insert a 10 amp fuse in the fuse holder from (+) battery. At first we tried a 7.5 amp mini fuse but it popped right as soon as secondary fan started.
15. You are going to have to cut and modify inner fairings(turn signals attach to these) see picture. This is going to take some creativity. Mid fairings will not mount correctly since radiator is moved foward 2.5 to 3". Warning this step you must take your time and measure 3 times and cut once :wink:
16. Reinstall fairings. We ended up drilling and tapping front of fairing into turn signal and put additional bolt there. (see picture). since leading edge of fairings would not mount as tightly as we wanted to. Afraid of wind blowing fairing away from inner fairing.
17. Enjoy cooler temps on your bike and maybee some added power.
remember this might not be for everyone since you have to cut and modify your INNER plastics which in reality no one will see.
18. Mark NOR myself will NOT be held responsible for any problems, injuries or accidents to yourself, bike or others, relating to this mod in any such way or form. As long as you mount everything tightly and run wires properly fans should operate correctly.
Have fun and enjoy the mod.
I have had trouble keeping temps down on my bike. I have seen temps that creep up to 240+ at stop lights with 50/50 coolant mix. Here in Las Vegas things get hot especially if you cruise the strip(slow speeds and hot asphalt)! Once I get going it is fine and cools to 190 or so. Because of this I know there is no other probs with my bike. I have tried the radiator flush, water wetter, and currently engine ice which has helped keep temps at bay but it still ends up @ MID-230+ and will go to 240+ if I let her sit...
. My buddy Mark and I decided to install a second fan to cure the problem. I have looked into the switch install on the stock fan and muzzys upgrade but by reading peoples responses and myself not thinking it will do anything I passed.
Since I have finished the second fan it is nothing short of amazing! Temps never get passed 212 and begin to drop until fans kick off after sitting for 20 mins on the hot Vegas strip or after exiting a highway and stopping in traffic after a long out of town ride. After buying a used 04 fan off Ebay for $20 shipped we got the part and decided to mount it on the inside of the radiator kinda next to the stock fans location but on the other side obviously.
Here is a step by step install with pics on how you guys can solve your cooling probs forever and stop wasting your money on expensive engine ice (although it helps 8 degrees or so)! etc etc.
PLEASE KEEP IN MIND that this is going to take some figuring out by you and you will have to use some creativity and mechanical skillz. There are several ways you can run your wiring but Mark is a certified Electrician and Mechanic and this is the RIGHT way to hook it up. OPTION 1: We chose to have the new fan kick on when the original one does using a relay and new supply from battery direct with inline fuse to take the start up hit and continuous feed. The stock fan wiring(to the fan) is cheesy and will not handle the extra power load of another fan by itself. OPTION 2: You can run a positive line from the battery with an inline fuse into a toggle and then ground the toggle, but i did not want to have to deal with switching it on and off or forgetting to switch it off. You can run a small led light and mount it by the speedometer/tach to tell you that it is on.
Once all hooked up we used a voltmeter contacted the battery with bike running at IDLE. We were showing 14.2 volts with one HID light running (I run HIDS) which is voltage from factory:thumbsup: . When Fans kicked voltage went down to 13.5 volts with one HID still plenty of charge to battery( over 12v). When Highbeam HID and running HID were both on with Fans running voltage went to 12.9(still ample charging supply to battery from stator). Conclusion NO WORRIES about charging system. Hopefully no long term stator wear but we cant see it.
1. ITEMS NEEDED: preferably a stock 1st gen FAN, 4 prong 20 amp relay, inline mini fuse, 10 amp mini fuse, INSULATED connectors, about 15 feet of 12 ga. wire from Auto Zone or parts store, crimping tool, snips, drill and tools etc., miscelaneous screws, aluminum bar stock from home depot or any metal will do for lower radiator bracket.
2. make sure bike is cool
3. secure bike (I used Marks pro pneumatic lift which is awesome)!
4. Remove mid and lower fairings BOTH SIDES!
5. Remove bolt from lower radiator support radiator to frame connection.
6. Pull radiator forward 3" and insert new fan on right side of the bike. There are fan mounts on the radiator already in place on the radiator> right side the fan will mount directly to these. roatate or clock the fan 180 degrees so the two shorter bracket arms are attached to the bottom mounts. You might have to slightly bend the mounts to get the fan to sit correct against the radiator so the fan spins freely and it clears the header and engine sensor coming off the engine on right side. Fasten the fan to the radiator with bolts and nuts that you have.
7. Now you have the fan fastened securely, make sure it rotates freely and does not touch the radiator fins.
8. To remount the lower radiator to frame we used aluminum bar stock as an extender which we cut to 3" and drilled two holes. fasten with bolts and nuts. One hole to lower radiator mount the other to the radiator engine mount bracket (see pic).
9. You want to T crimp off the Blue(+) wire( going into the original 1st fan) after the connector and run wire to relay #86, this will be the trigger wire. Use INSULATED CONNECTORS on relay block. Mount relay on right side upper inner fairing with one fastener.
10. Attach wire from (+) terminal on battery, attach an inline fuse holder, run wire to #30 on relay.
11. Cut connector OFF of NEW 2nd FAN run black wire to ground on engine(see pic) and a wire from engine ground to ground the relay #85. Blue(+) wire off 2nd fan goes to relay #87 (see pic).
13. Zip tie all wires, make sure they are out of the way of the headset or any excessive heat. Make sure no wires will chaffe anywhere.
14. once wires are all connected Properly (if needed see relay wiring diagram on box) insert a 10 amp fuse in the fuse holder from (+) battery. At first we tried a 7.5 amp mini fuse but it popped right as soon as secondary fan started.
15. You are going to have to cut and modify inner fairings(turn signals attach to these) see picture. This is going to take some creativity. Mid fairings will not mount correctly since radiator is moved foward 2.5 to 3". Warning this step you must take your time and measure 3 times and cut once :wink:
16. Reinstall fairings. We ended up drilling and tapping front of fairing into turn signal and put additional bolt there. (see picture). since leading edge of fairings would not mount as tightly as we wanted to. Afraid of wind blowing fairing away from inner fairing.
17. Enjoy cooler temps on your bike and maybee some added power.
remember this might not be for everyone since you have to cut and modify your INNER plastics which in reality no one will see.
18. Mark NOR myself will NOT be held responsible for any problems, injuries or accidents to yourself, bike or others, relating to this mod in any such way or form. As long as you mount everything tightly and run wires properly fans should operate correctly.
Have fun and enjoy the mod.
