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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone this is my first thread and I wanted to drop in and say hello!:hello:

I have had trouble keeping temps down on my bike. I have seen temps that creep up to 240+ at stop lights with 50/50 coolant mix. Here in Las Vegas things get hot especially if you cruise the strip(slow speeds and hot asphalt)! Once I get going it is fine and cools to 190 or so. Because of this I know there is no other probs with my bike. I have tried the radiator flush, water wetter, and currently engine ice which has helped keep temps at bay but it still ends up @ MID-230+ and will go to 240+ if I let her sit... :rolleyes:.

My buddy Mark and I decided to install a second fan to cure the problem. I have looked into the switch install on the stock fan and muzzys upgrade but by reading peoples responses and myself not thinking it will do anything I passed.

Since I have finished the second fan it is nothing short of amazing! Temps never get passed 212 and begin to drop until fans kick off after sitting for 20 mins on the hot Vegas strip or after exiting a highway and stopping in traffic after a long out of town ride. After buying a used 04 fan off Ebay for $20 shipped we got the part and decided to mount it on the inside of the radiator kinda next to the stock fans location but on the other side obviously.

Here is a step by step install with pics on how you guys can solve your cooling probs forever and stop wasting your money on expensive engine ice (although it helps 8 degrees or so)! etc etc.

PLEASE KEEP IN MIND that this is going to take some figuring out by you and you will have to use some creativity and mechanical skillz. There are several ways you can run your wiring but Mark is a certified Electrician and Mechanic and this is the RIGHT way to hook it up. OPTION 1: We chose to have the new fan kick on when the original one does using a relay and new supply from battery direct with inline fuse to take the start up hit and continuous feed. The stock fan wiring(to the fan) is cheesy and will not handle the extra power load of another fan by itself. OPTION 2: You can run a positive line from the battery with an inline fuse into a toggle and then ground the toggle, but i did not want to have to deal with switching it on and off or forgetting to switch it off. You can run a small led light and mount it by the speedometer/tach to tell you that it is on.

Once all hooked up we used a voltmeter contacted the battery with bike running at IDLE. We were showing 14.2 volts with one HID light running (I run HIDS) which is voltage from factory:thumbsup: . When Fans kicked voltage went down to 13.5 volts with one HID still plenty of charge to battery( over 12v). When Highbeam HID and running HID were both on with Fans running voltage went to 12.9(still ample charging supply to battery from stator). Conclusion NO WORRIES about charging system. Hopefully no long term stator wear but we cant see it.

1. ITEMS NEEDED: preferably a stock 1st gen FAN, 4 prong 20 amp relay, inline mini fuse, 10 amp mini fuse, INSULATED connectors, about 15 feet of 12 ga. wire from Auto Zone or parts store, crimping tool, snips, drill and tools etc., miscelaneous screws, aluminum bar stock from home depot or any metal will do for lower radiator bracket.

2. make sure bike is cool

3. secure bike (I used Marks pro pneumatic lift which is awesome)!

4. Remove mid and lower fairings BOTH SIDES!

5. Remove bolt from lower radiator support radiator to frame connection.

6. Pull radiator forward 3" and insert new fan on right side of the bike. There are fan mounts on the radiator already in place on the radiator> right side the fan will mount directly to these. roatate or clock the fan 180 degrees so the two shorter bracket arms are attached to the bottom mounts. You might have to slightly bend the mounts to get the fan to sit correct against the radiator so the fan spins freely and it clears the header and engine sensor coming off the engine on right side. Fasten the fan to the radiator with bolts and nuts that you have.

7. Now you have the fan fastened securely, make sure it rotates freely and does not touch the radiator fins.

8. To remount the lower radiator to frame we used aluminum bar stock as an extender which we cut to 3" and drilled two holes. fasten with bolts and nuts. One hole to lower radiator mount the other to the radiator engine mount bracket (see pic).

9. You want to T crimp off the Blue(+) wire( going into the original 1st fan) after the connector and run wire to relay #86, this will be the trigger wire. Use INSULATED CONNECTORS on relay block. Mount relay on right side upper inner fairing with one fastener.

10. Attach wire from (+) terminal on battery, attach an inline fuse holder, run wire to #30 on relay.

11. Cut connector OFF of NEW 2nd FAN run black wire to ground on engine(see pic) and a wire from engine ground to ground the relay #85. Blue(+) wire off 2nd fan goes to relay #87 (see pic).

13. Zip tie all wires, make sure they are out of the way of the headset or any excessive heat. Make sure no wires will chaffe anywhere.

14. once wires are all connected Properly (if needed see relay wiring diagram on box) insert a 10 amp fuse in the fuse holder from (+) battery. At first we tried a 7.5 amp mini fuse but it popped right as soon as secondary fan started.

15. You are going to have to cut and modify inner fairings(turn signals attach to these) see picture. This is going to take some creativity. Mid fairings will not mount correctly since radiator is moved foward 2.5 to 3". Warning this step you must take your time and measure 3 times and cut once :wink:

16. Reinstall fairings. We ended up drilling and tapping front of fairing into turn signal and put additional bolt there. (see picture). since leading edge of fairings would not mount as tightly as we wanted to. Afraid of wind blowing fairing away from inner fairing.

17. Enjoy cooler temps on your bike and maybee some added power.
remember this might not be for everyone since you have to cut and modify your INNER plastics which in reality no one will see.

18. Mark NOR myself will NOT be held responsible for any problems, injuries or accidents to yourself, bike or others, relating to this mod in any such way or form. As long as you mount everything tightly and run wires properly fans should operate correctly.

Have fun and enjoy the mod.
 

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La Flama Blanca
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Love the Microsoft Paint work.:crackup:
Got the message across though.:eek:ccasion1
 

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is it worth the agro?i fitted a manual fan switch and with it on in traffic or lights my bike never go's over 90'c,with single fan..
 

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...an easier fix would be to get the bike out of town and use it like it was intended. :idea:

Good job on the how-to for others in your position, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the advise but we already go on out of town rides to California, utah, and AZ. When you come back into town and hit a few lights off the highway things get hot especially when it is 100+ out. Just used the strip to really test it out after install. Install was easy took a few hours and was no agrovation at all!!!! Actually had a chance to chill with the boys and turn some wrench!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
At Auto Zone or any other auto parts store should have them though. They are cheap $5 or so. Hanging in the isle with all the fuses, light bulbs, electrical stuff etc.

Thanks for reply:cool:
 

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At Auto Zone or any other auto parts store should have them though. They are cheap $5 or so. Hanging in the isle with all the fuses, light bulbs, electrical stuff etc.

Thanks for reply:cool:
Relays that Cheap now......I am thinking around $20 at least...you got a part # because if you want to do a True How to you need to post that as well. :idea::heyyou:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Relays that Cheap now......I am thinking around $20 at least...you got a part # because if you want to do a True How to you need to post that as well. :idea::heyyou:
Yes it was. I paid $18 including high tax, for relay, fuse holder, and connectors. my boy had the wire and all the rest needed for completion maybee an extra connector or two.

Part #??????? No I dont have it and you, I or anyone does not need it! It is a basic universal 20 amp 4 prong relay and something I just grabbed off the shelf at the auto parts store!!!!!! Any one will work.

Thanks for reply. If I can help in any way let me know. :cool:
 

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Yes it was. I paid $18 including high tax, for relay, fuse holder, and connectors. my boy had the wire and all the rest needed for completion maybee an extra connector or two.

Thanks for reply. If I can help in any way let me know. :cool:
you can't help me I got about 8 car relays sitting around in the garage but you may be able to help members wanting to try this with part #s and how a relay works in this situation. If you need help on your paint thing I can help you out there. :lol:...j/m but really give all part info for this kind of thing many will appreciate it. :wink:

bloo
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
you can't help me I got about 8 car relays sitting around in the garage but you may be able to help members wanting to try this with part #s and how a relay works in this situation. If you need help on your paint thing I can help you out there. :lol:...j/m but really give all part info for this kind of thing many will appreciate it. :wink:

bloo
Ok, I threw out the packaging and would have to take the fairing off to see if there is a part number since it was an off name part.... What I can do is go back to auto zone tomorrow look for the one I bought and let you know the details.

This is what I found on relays to better help everyone:

-a relay is a device that allows you to control a high-current electrical load with a low-current electrical 'signal'. they are usually electro-magnetic, but are also available in solid-state forms. they can be used with a switch (to allow control of a high-current load with a small switch) or they can be hooked up to a switched power source in the car like the ignition or accessory power circuits (to allow power to be switched on/off automatically with the ignition key).

If you want more info please search google for "how automotive relays work" or a variation of this wording

Thanks for reply
Peace
 

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MIA Post Whore
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SPDT relay



http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp

I would have left the crimp connectors to the Wal-Mart audio installers. Solder and heat shrink is preferred. I'd also use a relay socket (again- the crimp connectors-yuck) http://mobile-emotions.com/bore12wreso.html

12g wiring is overkill, as is running two grounds. ...but doesn't hurt anything other than cleanliness of the install.
of Course a ******* will never use the right gauge wiring. :crackup: J/M that is great start for those considering this mod. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I am not using two grounds.:crackup: As I posted in the original thread> One wire from the 2nd fan (-) (black wire) to the ground on engine and one wire that is in contact with this wire to the relay....... 1 Continuous ground to and from......

The wiring was done by a certified journeyman electrician/mechanic. So I took his word for it that it was done correct period! 4 prong 20amp universal relays are all you need. If you want to go 5 that will work fine too.

Anyone can do what you want with the wiring.

This set up works flawless for me and it solved my cooling problems more than anything I have tried in the past.

thanks
 

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MIA Post Whore
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I am not using two grounds.:crackup:
The fan and relay grounds could be joined. There is no current real draw from the relay. Didn't say it was wrong, just not neccassary.

The relay I posted is just what I usually have in the junk box and commonly found. It just gives the option between normally closed and normally open.

...not try'n to piss on your parade. You did a decent job. Besides I'm no certifide electrician, mearly a degreed & certified Biomedical Eng Tech. Not much electronics in life support systems. :wink: ...hehe, been out of that gig for years though. I prefer keeping computers alive than humans. People suck. :thefinger
 

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MIdlife PIMP
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The fan and relay grounds could be joined. There is no current real draw from the relay. Didn't say it was wrong, just not neccassary.

The relay I posted is just what I usually have in the junk box and commonly found. It just gives the option between normally closed and normally open.

...not try'n to piss on your parade. You did a decent job. Besides I'm no certifide electrician, mearly a degreed & certified Biomedical Eng Tech. Not much electronics in life support systems. :wink: ...hehe, been out of that gig for years though. I prefer keeping computers alive than humans. People suck. :thefinger
So does this mean I should splice into the original fan's ground wire and run it and the 2nd Fan's ground wire to the relay, instead of running a ground to the motor?...
 
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