Man thats damn good and your foot shifting you must be about 135lb lol, keep up the good work:thumbsup:60'- 1.583, 330'- 4.165, 1/8- 6.227 @ 119.79, 1000- 8.013, & 1/4 9.507 @ 151.66 that's lowered, extended, pipe, air filter and just a throw in map, foot shifting cause i cant get air shifter to work right Gearing was at 16/44 now i just put a 15/44 on but haven't had a chance to get to a test and tune yet
where did all the mph go? everything up to the 1/8 was damn near the same but mph was down a lot. did you change anything besides the gear or are you having problems getting wot with the extra gear or missing shift points?9-19-09 with a 15/44 set up bike went
60. 1.587
330. 4.143
1/8. 6.259
Mph. 115.66
1000. 0000
1/4. 9.645
Mph. 145.79
I just switched the gearing out to a 15/43 to try but haven't had time to get the bike back to the track. Also want to try and get the air shifter figured out.
:+1:definetly go back to the other map. mph is HP even if your not the best rider the bike should still have similar mph based on the hp its making. If mph drops like that and the weather didnt change a whole lot somewhere you lost HP between the two passes. dont be afraid to throw a bunch of that clutch away on the initial shot to get the bike to jump out of the hole. This is where you will get that 60 ft time and et to drop. to many people slide the first part of the clutch and that just slows you down big time. Your gearing is fine as long as your not in the limiter you wont be able to put enough gear on it to hurt the et. thats probably why you ran the same short times without the extra HP from the previous pass. if you would have just switched the maps not the gearing you would have been a lot slower. :thumbsup:you should go back to the old map you had when you ran 151mph!! I dont think your gearing is the problem! I think all you have to do is be more aggressive on the clutch!
I went 9.teens at 151 with vp fuel and I was around 165 pounds no gear. on pump fuel would go 9.30 with stock untouched engine.I am hoping to get the bike back to the track and try running the other map to see what happens. I would really like to get this thing to run in the low 9's with out getting in to to much motor work. Also i am as low as i can go with this thing with out damaging the exhaust or oil pan gotta get one of those low oil pans and would like to put a side winder pipe on it
where are you running an IHRA track in PA? Beaver?That sounds great i am gonna try some different fuel. I am building this bike for Bracket racing. But i just have this need to go faster and at my local track everyone is running Busa just want to be different with a 10 lol:. I am hoping to go back for a full season next year in IHRA.
I was track champion twice(In cars) at Numidia near bloomsburg but spent most of my racing time(all but those two years) at maple grove(also in cars)If you ever decide to do a head and cam package my head and cam motor on my 05 made around 14 hp more than it did without it. It was a rick ward head with webb cams that I bought used and installed with a thin gasket. that sucks that it let go with 300 miles on it, at least kaw covered it though.Yes, Beaver Springs. It's only like a hope skip and a jump over the mountain from my house 15 min. I got the bike back at the end of the season last year after #3 rod left lose and had me down for 5 months. Now i wish i would of went with thinner head gasket and redid the head but Kawasaki paid the pill had 297 miles on bike when she came apart.
:thumbsup: good luckYes it did suck then it took 5 months to get back that really had me jacked. So i've been out of racing for 2 years pretty much was at one friday street race since motor was done but want to get the bugs out of it and shoot for a full season next year 2010.